"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

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http://inbhox.com/ironman_helmet.html

Here's my build thus far Ventrue - see end of the bondo phase for soft edge pictures. I'm going to build up the edges a little bit with bondo and use the suggested block technique (yes, I've been doing the entire thing with a sponge and random orbital sander so far. The more I work on this thing the less I want to cut the faceplate off - I seriously think I'm going to leave the whole thing in one piece. All in all, I think it's coming along quite nicely.
 
Hey guys, i just want to ask a question since im just a newbie, and im sorry if its already come up. Once that armor is complete, how durable is it? Like is it going to be so weak you cant sit down because it might break, or is it so tough you could play paintball in it?
Thanks, Thatguy
 
Has anyone tried using fiberglass, but instead of hardening it with resin, they harden it with Rondo? A Rondo mixture with a higher ratio of resin to Bondo so it is still relatively liquidy? I thought about how that would work, but I'm not sure what the results would be. If you've tried it, let me know. If you know why it might not work, also let me know.

Yeah, its called mud glassing. Well at least that's what the kids are calling it. lol. I agree with ventrue though, rondo is really intended to harden something up fast, its really good for getting a pep ready quickly. I use it for getting it hardened fast, so I can mold it. But if your going to get into all the fiberglass stuff, then why not just do the whole thing that way. Its lighter then using rondo. Don't get me wrong, rondo is strong, but impacts to it can cause it to fracture. Conventional Fiberglass & Resin is both lighter, stronger and tends to be a lot more impact resistant than straight Rondo by itself. My whole point is Rondo is a shortcut and if your going to take the time to cut fiberglass and all that business, then you might as well do it with straight resin and glass.
 
http://inbhox.com/ironman_helmet.html

Here's my build thus far Ventrue - see end of the bondo phase for soft edge pictures. I'm going to build up the edges a little bit with bondo and use the suggested block technique (yes, I've been doing the entire thing with a sponge and random orbital sander so far. The more I work on this thing the less I want to cut the faceplate off - I seriously think I'm going to leave the whole thing in one piece. All in all, I think it's coming along quite nicely.

Well, sanding sponges are about the worst tool for getting sharp edges. You definitely need something that won't give away.

Also, those "blurry" edges, for example near the chin, can be improved by using a tool you have more control over. Power tools can work well, but you need lots of practice with them, otherwise they will find their own way and go where they want, instead of where you want. Files work as well in many cases, but are slower of course.

Hey guys, i just want to ask a question since im just a newbie, and im sorry if its already come up. Once that armor is complete, how durable is it? Like is it going to be so weak you cant sit down because it might break, or is it so tough you could play paintball in it?
Thanks, Thatguy

Depends on how strong you build it. But never play paintball, ride your bike or do anything else in it that might be dangerous. It's fake armour, not real armour.
 
Depends on the type of body filler you use. You also shouldn't be applying it thick enough for it to shrink in as large of a unit as an inch. At most you might see a mm of shrinkage but I've never really experienced any noticeable shrinkage. You'll save yourself a lot of work sanding if you build it up in layers since it should come out a lot smoother.
 
When making armor out of foam, do you have to plasti-dip? or if its for more or less one halloweens worth of wearing, is going without fine?
 
OK guys, new to the 405th and the whole Resin and Bondo experience. I have a series of questions because I'm looking to make my self a High Quality MARK VI suit and helmet.

Questions:

1. Knowing that resin is highly toxic, does this apply to it being dry as well? (i.e. Is it harmful to be that close to resin within the helmet?)

2. What are other alternatives to making the suit without loosing the quality of resin and bondo, if any?

Thanks guys, I appreciate it

-Sincerely
Arcaos
 
OK guys, new to the 405th and the whole Resin and Bondo experience. I have a series of questions because I'm looking to make my self a High Quality MARK VI suit and helmet.

Questions:

1. Knowing that resin is highly toxic, does this apply to it being dry as well? (i.e. Is it harmful to be that close to resin within the helmet?)

2. What are other alternatives to making the suit without loosing the quality of resin and bondo, if any?

Thanks guys, I appreciate it

-Sincerely
Arcaos

Welcome to 405th. Both of you questions can be answered in this sticky. I suggest that you take some time to read this sticky to understand your options. I know there are a lot of pages. Just scan through them can answer most of your curiosities.

If you prefer, you can check out Spitfire's guide. He put together a good guide for a noob.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/34408-All-In-One-New-Member-Introduction-Guide

Now to answer your questions. Resin is toxic during the chemical reaction, once resin is mixed with catalyst. Once resin is cured, it will not post any hazard.

There are other options, but you need to look around. There is aqua-resin, which should be "not" toxic. Smooth-on is another option. Both of these products are much more expensive. Pros and cons can be found in previous posts.
 
Welcome to 405th. Both of you questions can be answered in this sticky. I suggest that you take some time to read this sticky to understand your options. I know there are a lot of pages. Just scan through them can answer most of your curiosities.

If you prefer, you can check out Spitfire's guide. He put together a good guide for a noob.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/34408-All-In-One-New-Member-Introduction-Guide

Now to answer your questions. Resin is toxic during the chemical reaction, once resin is mixed with catalyst. Once resin is cured, it will not post any hazard.

There are other options, but you need to look around. There is aqua-resin, which should be "not" toxic. Smooth-on is another option. Both of these products are much more expensive. Pros and cons can be found in previous posts.
Thanks a lot for your help and I'm very glad to be here. I will definitely take a look at the sticky, but it is like you said, lots of pages lol. Thanks again :)
 
Completely noob questions! Sorry I cross posted in another thread.

I am in the process of making a helmet from Gears of War, but I'm almost the 'pepping'? I wanted to get the resin and such when I go into the city (I live in a small town, so we only go into the city once in a while) and was wondering what things I can get at a Walmart of Canadian Tire? I know I need resin, fibreglass and bondo, but what kinds of each? Thank you!!
 
I doubt it'll work well. Part of the reason you use fiberglass is so the resin can completely seep in and harden. Resin may have a hard time really getting in to the duct tape. Fiberglass isn't THAT expensive so I'm not sure why you would substitute duct tape for it.
 
Completely noob questions! Sorry I cross posted in another thread.

I am in the process of making a helmet from Gears of War, but I'm almost the 'pepping'? I wanted to get the resin and such when I go into the city (I live in a small town, so we only go into the city once in a while) and was wondering what things I can get at a Walmart of Canadian Tire? I know I need resin, fibreglass and bondo, but what kinds of each? Thank you!!

Walmart in my area sells only one kind of resin and bondo. Not sure what you can find in Canada. What you need is the 3M Fiberglass Resin. Sometimes it is called Polyester Resin. As for bondo, Walmart only sells 3M Bondo in pint and gallon size.

is it viable to use self adhesive joint tape like this (http://www.amazon.com/DUCK-Self-adh...YUDC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318312858&sr=8-2) instead of like fiberglass mesh/cloth? if so how much weaker will it be compared to the other two?

The self adhesive tape may not be up to standard. I've used drywall joint tape before, the tape is not tightly woven. Means it would not give you the strengthe that you need. Plus, it contains adhesive that may or may not react to resin. I recommend that you buy regular fiberglass cloth as pandamajik stated, it is not that expensive.

ok im going to say this once use fiber glass cloth its less messy

first off for the upmpteenth time please use proper capitalization and punctuation second it depends on preference fiberglass is always a prefered choice but there are other methods as well it may be less messy to you but fiberglass is known to be very difficult to work with because it tends to stick to the brush when you apply resin
 
I know you guys can't give me an exact amount for how much resin/autobody filler I'll need, but is there like a general guideline for the amount? I'd prefer to make as few trips to the store as possible, but if it would simply be easier to by as I run out I will, haha.
 
I know you guys can't give me an exact amount for how much resin/autobody filler I'll need, but is there like a general guideline for the amount? I'd prefer to make as few trips to the store as possible, but if it would simply be easier to by as I run out I will, haha.

There is no general guideline. It depends on how much you use or how much you waste. Most of the time you need to make a second or third trip. Please read this entire sticky and it will give you some sense how much is needed. Read my earlier post. http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/26849-quot-Help!-quot-for-Fiberglassing-Resin-amp-Bondo?p=570399#post570399
 
Hey, I'm having trouble finding a respirator. I'm not entirely sure what type I need other than that I need one that is rated for vapors. The Noob lists say that I should be able to find one for 6-10 bucks but the only ones I found that weren't just dust masks were at Lowe's for $30 and $40!! Am I looking at the wrong kind? Can anyone help clear up what kind I need? Please help me 405th!!
 
Hey, I'm having trouble finding a respirator. I'm not entirely sure what type I need other than that I need one that is rated for vapors. The Noob lists say that I should be able to find one for 6-10 bucks but the only ones I found that weren't just dust masks were at Lowe's for $30 and $40!! Am I looking at the wrong kind? Can anyone help clear up what kind I need? Please help me 405th!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Medium-D..._Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item4aa9f29e52
(link used for example purposes only, not advertising)

This is the kind I got (harbor freight - 16 bucks) - works like a champ.
 
2 questions
1. will fibreglass work on top of packing tape?
2. will a fibreglass spray work just as well as the cloth?
 
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