Spartan Intimidator 117 is made completely from foam, including the helm and shotgun.
After browsing through this thread I have a list of tips for anyone who is interested:
Prior to cutting the foam seal it with a heatgun first. You will get less shrinkage and can achieve very crisp edges. You also use less paint in the end.
Foam edges. You have a couple of options depending on the finish you want. For a factory cut on an exposed edge I use a hotknife and metal ruler and slice completely through in 1 cut on hot temp. This is a slow process but makes the nicest cut. For general cuts on pieces to be glued together or with a shallow (2-3mm) overlap I use the same process only I cut 3mm deep with the hotknife and then cut the shape out with large scissors. If your edges are rough no need to worry, you have options. You can go for the rough look and use glue and paint to achieve a rough metal look by applying a coat of hotglue then a coat of gloss black and then a heavy drybrush of metalic silver. You can also make a sanding block with 360-400 grit paper and smooth the edge. When sanding foam you have to be aware of friction heat, it can gum and/or shred the foam surface. The cod belt has many exposed and visible edges
Hot glue. I mostly use hotglue on high temp. Apply a light bead to exposed seams and a heavy bead wherever you can't see. A thick bead held firm until it sets is preferable on high stress seams. Room temperature is also important, have a cold room if you want your work to set fast and use a warm room if you want more time to work the glue before it sets. With a warm room you need to hold the bond longer. I use a cold room for smoothing the glue on a finish surface, such as the edges of the foam or for making surface repairs on my finished armor. Try a lower temp for smoothing the glue, with practice you can achieve nice results. The tacpad addon on my forearm was my first attempt at this technique, it came out ok.
Foam. I use 10-12mm grey or black (I don't recommend colors) for the main parts and then use various smaller sizes for details although 3mm seems to work best. 3mm seems to make a proportionate edge that can be cut crisp and is easy to paint. 2mm is harder to cut nicely and the edges are very small if you paint your details. To keep an area rigid you can glue craft sticks to the back of the foam. This is handy for flat parts on a rounded piece that can get stressed and lose their shape. For branding the foam I use the woodburning tips with the hotknife. Vent the room as the fumes can give you a headache or work outside. The tip starts very hot but drops heat quick so you start fast and end slow to achieve even branding lines. Also between branding let the iron heat to max and apply the same pressure to achieve a consistent look. Try a metal edge or shape to trace around. Practice is everything.
Paint. I use plastidip as a base/sealant and then acrylic/latex for the finish. A gloss coat is optional, my armor does not have a gloss coat. Longshot-x has the same paint scheme and has a gloss coat. Note: you can use latex paint and skip the plastidip, however, it will not be as durable and resistant to wear and tear. I paint edges and details in flat black, this makes a big difference in photo's well worth the extra time. I also drybrush metallic silver lightly everywhere and then heavy in the high wear areas. I also add a solid silver trim to any sharp edges to help them stand out in photos. For inset black areas I use gloss black and then flat black on the ridges. This may seem like overkill but it does make a difference in photos.
Templates. I made mine from low-def pep files and added detail shapes from high def files. You really only need the larger shapes and cut/fold lines. The smaller ridges can be achieved by using the thickness of the foam as an edge. Try to put seams where there is a ridge or detail and remember, you can carve out the back of the foam along mountain folds to avoid an ugly seam or edge.
Good luck and happy armoring!
