"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

[halo95]

Hello, halo95 here.

Do you need to keep the overlaping metal parts in the mk VI thighs for structure while resning. cause im going to use foam instead. ( I think it looks more game-accurate) ot is it ok to leave them out.

and speaking of resining. does anybody have a cheap reliable source for fiberglass resin?

 

[Spitfire22V]

Hello, halo95 here.

Do you need to keep the overlaping metal parts in the mk VI thighs for structure while resning. cause im going to use foam instead. ( I think it looks more game-accurate) ot is it ok to leave them out.

and speaking of resining. does anybody have a cheap reliable source for fiberglass resin?

You shouldn't need them, considering the low-def parts I'm making don't even have them in the Pep piece, so I have to make them out of foam.

Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, any automotive store should be a good source of fiberglass resin.

 

[SharkForge]

Another question for the pros!

I have the reach helmet modeled by RUNDOWN. It is the commander helmet with the helmet attachment... I really like the helmet but there are two things that concern me before I start pepping...

http://halocostuming.wikia.com/wiki/Pepakura_File_Index helmet file can be found here

I noticed that there are quite a few areas where flaps overlap... is this normal? I attached a picture circling the areas as an example. There is also a part of the helmet that looks like the visor portion goes completely flush with the helmet I circled that too.

My question for you guys is are these overlapping parts common or normal or is that a big no no? If they are normal how do I go about approaching overlapping tabs? Also do you see what im talking about with the visor area becoming competely flush with the helmet? anyway! I was hoping I could get some advice... is ther perhaps a better (but equally awesome) Noble 6 helmet out there? I love that attachment. Any advice would be super appreciated! Thanks in advance!

EDIT: It seems through hardcore digging there was a thread on it... some say just wing the tabs, others say it will throw off the model over time... Is this unfold just not really useable?

 

[nightlynutria]

okay just finished building my pepakura mark VI helmet, now what? resin?

 

[ventrue]

I noticed that there are quite a few areas where flaps overlap... is this normal?

Yes. Just cut it so that a bit of each flap survives. As long as the actual faces aren't overlapping, you can still build it.

okay just finished building my pepakura mark VI helmet, now what? resin?

No. Reading. Start here: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/30542-NOOB-reading-list
Remember safety.

 

[sildeo]

ok question the halo reach LX3 chest model and unfold does anyone know what size it comes out at standard scale, size front to back at the bottom side to side bottom and top?
hope that makes sense

 

[SharkForge]

Thanks a million ventrue for the swift response! Do you suggest the model I posted for the Noble 6 helmet or is there a better/more efficient one you know? This one seems to get a bit complicating but I can still do it... some pro tips on the most accurate noble 6 would ROCK! thanks again in advance!

 

[Hickeydog]

Thanks a million ventrue for the swift response! Do you suggest the model I posted for the Noble 6 helmet or is there a better/more efficient one you know? This one seems to get a bit complicating but I can still do it... some pro tips on the most accurate noble 6 would ROCK! thanks again in advance!

That model you showed is probably the most detailed Noble 6. I'm not too familiar with the MK5 Reach armor, but I'm sure there's a few easier models floating around there. Have you downloaded the complete pepakura pack? It's got a TON of peps in there.

 

[Ghost Knife]

Not sure if this is the correct thread to ask this question:

I have been looking through all the downloadable print outs that a lot of members have posted. My only problem as of now is to actually get it to download. My family and I are Mac users, and it seems that most if not all of the downloads are PC only. Now, I will be switching to PC very soon (very tired of Mac not being compatible with a lot of things -.- ) Is there any files that someone can direct me to that is Mac friendly? or will I have to wait before I can start on my first project.

Thank you for your time!

 

[CyberPaddy66]

You need to look for any that are saved as PDF

 

[Ghost Knife]

Thank you very much!

 

[ventrue]

You need to look for any that are saved as PDF

That's the perfect way to forget scaling and build a model that won't fit, if it's armour.

Fact is: You need somebody to scale the file, print it into a PDF and then send that PDF to you. You can't really scale for somebody else though, which makes this somewhat difficult.
The alternative is to get Windows, either real or emulated.

 

[Dani Girl]

Not sure if this is the correct thread to ask this question:

I have been looking through all the downloadable print outs that a lot of members have posted. My only problem as of now is to actually get it to download. My family and I are Mac users, and it seems that most if not all of the downloads are PC only. Now, I will be switching to PC very soon (very tired of Mac not being compatible with a lot of things -.- ) Is there any files that someone can direct me to that is Mac friendly? or will I have to wait before I can start on my first project.

Thank you for your time!

if your MAC can handle it, you have to emulate windows. Pepakura unfortunately is a windows only program and to do the proper scaling to fit the armor pieces to your body size, you need the original program.

If your mac can't handle it, get a cheap Netbook ($300 at DELL right now) with Windows XP or 7. Install Pepakura and your drivers for your printer and voila, a printing and scaling computer that will help you.

 

[CyberPaddy66]

That's the perfect way to forget scaling and build a model that won't fit, if it's armour.

Fact is: You need somebody to scale the file, print it into a PDF and then send that PDF to you. You can't really scale for somebody else though, which makes this somewhat difficult.
The alternative is to get Windows, either real or emulated.

I wasn't suggesting he doesn't scale the files and you can scale the PDF's as you print them anyway heck even the PDO's you find will probably need scaling so it's not just limited to Mac's or PDF's

 

[Jona]

First, try printing one page at a time. For some reason, this solves a lot of problems with Pepakura. If the program starts printing
all black pages, or just the edge ID's (the numbers) here are the printer settings that solved that problem for me:

Under "Settings" click "Print and Paper Settings"
Leave the default the way it's been working for you, but select:
"Print Lines Smoothly (Bitmap print)"; and
"Transparency" to 0%.
If that's the way you already have it, try the opposite, then close and restart the program.

Thanks!!!!!!!! this is really helpful.

 

[BaronVonReicher]

For extremely small flaps, I thought about using the "Join Adjacent Edges" feature, threshold of 1 mm. What would be the potential bad side effects of doing this?

 

[Mangoes7]

For extremely small flaps, I thought about using the "Join Adjacent Edges" feature, threshold of 1 mm. What would be the potential bad side effects of doing this?

I honestly have no clue. Lol

 

[BaronVonReicher]

I honestly have no clue. Lol

Not to be a jerk, but why even respond if you don't know?
Does anyone know?

 

[CyberPaddy66]

For extremely small flaps, I thought about using the "Join Adjacent Edges" feature, threshold of 1 mm. What would be the potential bad side effects of doing this?

I tried a 0.5mm join on a small piece and it made the curves quite distorted so a 1mm join would be horrendous, most likely your tabs wouldn't line up and it'll warp like a biarch.

 

[frozty]

I got a question, how exactly do I scale armor? I've been getting mixed responses.