"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

[Roadkiller]

That's because, like so much in this hobby, there are many different ways to do it. Here is one way:

Read this on how to "scale" your paper creation to fit you:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/25588-How-to-Scale-Your-Armour-Tutorial-V.2

Then read this on how to download and use "MrOreo123's Armor Scaling and Measurement Tool":
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...ling-And-Measurement-Tool?p=496754#post496754

 

[BaronVonReicher]

I tried a 0.5mm join on a small piece and it made the curves quite distorted so a 1mm join would be horrendous, most likely your tabs wouldn't line up and it'll warp like a biarch.

Thanks for the info. Is there then a "safe" way to get rid of these small pieces? I cut my files with a CraftRobo, and I end up with cut lines and no real flap to join them.

These vertical-ish lines (223, 221, 218, 217) on the "ear piece" are examples of what I'm trying to get rid of

 

[Spitfire22V]

Seems like there's a few possible things to do, and you wouldn't need to get rid of anything.

A. Since the piece is already cut out, assemble the helmet, and simply reinforce those cuts with cardboard on the inside. It looks like there are enough tabs on that piece anyway to keep the structure until it's finished and you can reinforce it. It would require Bondo to fill in any gaps left.

B. Simple re-print just that part, but this time cut it by hand. Then, you're in complete control over what gets cut or not, and you can choose to not cut those lines.

Either way, there's a pretty simple solution.

 

[kelevra16]

I got a question, how exactly do I scale armor? I've been getting mixed responses.

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/25588-How-to-Scale-Your-Armour-Tutorial-V.2

Try the link (and just realized Roadkiller already mentioned it) and try using the first method, I used it and it's the easiest (I'm 5'9-ish). Even when I measured the overall height of the printed photo incorrectly and correctly measured the helmet in the photo and used the ratio, it came out alright after pepping the whole thing. Maybe just add a cm and a half (or a bit more), if you're concerned for space for fiberglass/bondo (rondo?) and cushioning (is that the term here?).

Also, if you have trouble finding a photo of Master Chief standing up straight, you could use one of Bluerealm's at his site, there's a perfect photo of him standing up straight in the armor. Well, just a suggestion just in case we're not really allowed to use his photos. Though, there is a watermark present.

(My first post! hoped I helped!)

 

[iGotUrFatsnake]

How do we scale are head to fit the helmet?

 

[tomahawknutter]

How do we scale are head to fit the helmet?

no you scale the helmet to fit your head, not really sure how your ment to change your head size lol

 

[CyberPaddy66]

Seems like there's a few possible things to do, and you wouldn't need to get rid of anything.

A. Since the piece is already cut out, assemble the helmet, and simply reinforce those cuts with cardboard on the inside. It looks like there are enough tabs on that piece anyway to keep the structure until it's finished and you can reinforce it. It would require Bondo to fill in any gaps left.

B. Simple re-print just that part, but this time cut it by hand. Then, you're in complete control over what gets cut or not, and you can choose to not cut those lines.

Either way, there's a pretty simple solution.

I'd go with option A myself then apply some glue to the edges and let them stick together if they can and when you fibreglass it there should be enough strength there to hold it firm, when I have cuts like that in the peps I do as I'm using PVA it works well enough for me

 

[BaronVonReicher]

Seems like there's a few possible things to do, and you wouldn't need to get rid of anything.

A. Since the piece is already cut out, assemble the helmet, and simply reinforce those cuts with cardboard on the inside. It looks like there are enough tabs on that piece anyway to keep the structure until it's finished and you can reinforce it. It would require Bondo to fill in any gaps left.

B. Simple re-print just that part, but this time cut it by hand. Then, you're in complete control over what gets cut or not, and you can choose to not cut those lines.

Either way, there's a pretty simple solution.

I'd go with option A myself then apply some glue to the edges and let them stick together if they can and when you fibreglass it there should be enough strength there to hold it firm, when I have cuts like that in the peps I do as I'm using PVA it works well enough for me

Thanks for the help/info guys! I was really hoping there was a solution I could plug into the CraftROBO program, but we can't have everything we want, can we?

 

[Spitfire22V]

Thanks for the help/info guys! I was really hoping there was a solution I could plug into the CraftROBO program, but we can't have everything we want, can we?

Considering that most of us cut out the Pep pieces by hand, I'm sure it won't kill you to manually cut out a piece or two if needed.

 

[ventrue]

Considering that most of us cut out the Pep pieces by hand, I'm sure it won't kill you to manually cut out a piece or two if needed.

Actually... it might! I mean, considering the lack of experience and the sharp knife... big chance for a big ouch here :-D

 

[Dani Girl]

Actually... it might! I mean, considering the lack of experience and the sharp knife... big chance for a big ouch here :-D

? Knife? Good old scissors here...I haven't cut anything with a knife for any of hte pepakura stuff I've done.

 

[ventrue]

? Knife? Good old scissors here...I haven't cut anything with a knife for any of hte pepakura stuff I've done.

Yes, a knife. I think a scalpel-type knife is the preferred tool for cutting Pepakura, particularly the really tiny pieces and hard-to-get-to corners.

 

[Dani Girl]

Yes, a knife. I think a scalpel-type knife is the preferred tool for cutting Pepakura, particularly the really tiny pieces and hard-to-get-to corners.

A good sharp scissors can do just fine. Its not a "preferred" tool, just one of many you can use.

 

[CyberPaddy66]

A good sharp scissors can do just fine. Its not a "preferred" tool, just one of many you can use.

I use scissors for the big cuts and a scalpel for the small cuts and tab v's and so far the worst I've had was a paper cut :rolleyes... ok Plasters on standby as I've now just jinxed myself DOH!

 

[Kyre]

I'm new, but so far I've been using my X-Acto blade for everything but very long cuts, or parts that don't have any v's for itty-bitty tabs.

 

[mjolnirfan]

Hi, I'm new to the 405th and was just wondering how much different the hd pepakura models were compared to the low def ones and if it was better to do my first pepakura model low def.

 

[BaronVonReicher]

Hi, I'm new to the 405th and was just wondering how much different the hd pepakura models were compared to the low def ones and if it was better to do my first pepakura model low def.

Pretty sure HD models have more detail and look a little smoother when completed. I would recommend starting out pepping a few low-def models to practice and get the hang of it. When you're comfy, try your hand at an HD one

 

[Brin]

The search function couldn't help me on this one so I ask you guys, if I rondo the inside of my helmet do i still need to fiberglass mat/cloth the inside after? I've noticed some do and some don't so I'd like some opinions maybe support with experience?

 

[EMAW09]

I only did rondo on the inside of mine and it was very strong. My only suggestion to to make sure you get even coverage on the sides. If it is too watery and doesn't harden fast enough, the rondo will slide down the sides of the helmet and collect on the bottom/top depending on whichever way it is laying to dry. Fiberglass is messy and a pain to deal with.

 

[ventrue]

if I rondo the inside of my helmet do i still need to fiberglass mat/cloth the inside after?

Not if you use enough.