How To Make A Helmet From Pep To Finish
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BenStreeper
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jurgenp1 said:Just wondering. Are you going to do a bondo video tutorial too.
btw tanks for the great tuts
Yes
OXM_Chase said:
Smooth-Cast® 300 1:1 by volume White 4500 psi 10 min. 80 cps 3 min. 3000 psi 70D 26.4
The Smooth Cast™ 300 Series of liquid plastics are ultra-low viscosity casting resins that yield castings that are bright white and virtually bubble free. Vacuum degassing is not necessary. They offer the convenience of a one to one mix ratio (one part A to one part B by volume).
Fully cured castings are tough, durable, machinable and paintable. They resist moisture and mild solvents. Applications for Smooth-Cast™ Liquid Plastics include reproducing small to medium size sculptures,making prototype models, roto cast pieces, and special effect props.
Smooth-Cast® 320 1:1 by volume Off-White 4500 psi 10 min. 80 cps 3 min. 3100 psi 70D 26.4
The Smooth Cast™ 320 Series consists of new ultra-low viscosity/low cost casting resins that yield virtually bubble-free castings. Smooth Cast™ 320 Series resins pigment better and are lower in cost. Applications for Smooth Cast™ 320 Series resins include reproducing small to medium size sculptures, making prototype models, special effect props, decorative jewelry, etc.
Easy to mix and pour, these resins offer the convenience of a one to one mix ratio (one Part A to one Part B by volume). Fully cured castings are tough, durable, machinable and paintable. They resist moisture and mild solvents
Basically the only difference is the the 320 takes dye better.
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Mr. Streeper, I'm going blind searching for a portion of a topic that you mentioned (I don't remember what site or thread), it may be in here but I'm going to ask since you said it was ok and then I'm going to show my helmet progress from start till now.
I think it was you who said when you are doing a helmet to cast in lieu of wearing you use a type of plaster for easier sanding and detailing then you will resin it again prior to casting, sand again and clear coat it. If I'm making this up please forgive me. If i'm not, can you please point me to that thread or the page in here if it exist? I started Dung0beetle's 2nd helmet and I'm at the shaping part and I suck at the bondo work for now so I thought the plaster would be easier to work with.
Below are the progress pictures, I have a lot of finish work to do, don't how much I will get to work on with kids and wife wanting attention. If anyone else is dealing with this let me know how too. lol (in a seperate thread of pm of course)
1. Pep'd
2. Resin'd
3. Rondo'd
4. Bondo to the outside
5. My big head inside
Thanks,
Hawk
I think it was you who said when you are doing a helmet to cast in lieu of wearing you use a type of plaster for easier sanding and detailing then you will resin it again prior to casting, sand again and clear coat it. If I'm making this up please forgive me. If i'm not, can you please point me to that thread or the page in here if it exist? I started Dung0beetle's 2nd helmet and I'm at the shaping part and I suck at the bondo work for now so I thought the plaster would be easier to work with.
Below are the progress pictures, I have a lot of finish work to do, don't how much I will get to work on with kids and wife wanting attention. If anyone else is dealing with this let me know how too. lol (in a seperate thread of pm of course)
1. Pep'd
2. Resin'd
3. Rondo'd
4. Bondo to the outside
5. My big head inside
Thanks,
Hawk
BenStreeper
Well-Known Member
Hawk77 said:
Do you mean when I did the head fr the "elite" elite (Still in progress)??
long story short when I make helmets they are to be cast, not worn. The fist wearable helmets are always the castings. This helmets make me less afraid to just dive into a helmet, or have a very thick backing for "support". I use dap plaster patcher quite often on these, as it is in-expensive and easy to work with. Not to mention non-toxic. Before molding though you have to coat with resin, of clear-coat with lacquer.
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Hey ben,
i am (currently waiting for the unfold) building a helmet that requires putting multiple pieces together (see below), and i wasnt sure how exactly to handle it. i was wondering if i could send it over to you to do a video tut on it. i would have to send you the physical helmet itself (not the files) because i do not (yet) have permission from the devs (who gave me the models) of a copyrighted and trademarked game, to give the files for other people to make their own suits. the reason i would like a tut on this is because this occurs all over the suit, and i would need to know how to do it. i would like you to do it because:
if you are interested please PM me or reply on this thread about it
(and heres the "see below" image... see how its like a bunch of addons to a base)
i am (currently waiting for the unfold) building a helmet that requires putting multiple pieces together (see below), and i wasnt sure how exactly to handle it. i was wondering if i could send it over to you to do a video tut on it. i would have to send you the physical helmet itself (not the files) because i do not (yet) have permission from the devs (who gave me the models) of a copyrighted and trademarked game, to give the files for other people to make their own suits. the reason i would like a tut on this is because this occurs all over the suit, and i would need to know how to do it. i would like you to do it because:
- you are good at vids
- i do not like reading
- you are amazing at modding peices (i ♥ your emile helmet mod)
- i know that this means the helmet (the most important part of the suit) is properly done
- this will add another part to your vid series
- your suits are so good that i would bear there children (if it were physicly possible)
if you are interested please PM me or reply on this thread about it
(and heres the "see below" image... see how its like a bunch of addons to a base)
BenStreeper
Well-Known Member
that's fine but I have to tell you that any works I complete I would mold. That lets me have a helmet, and the original would be sent to you. I would also need to have detailed ref. photos to work from.
BTW:
What game/ helmet is that??
BTW:
What game/ helmet is that??
MikyVengeance
Well-Known Member
Very awesome tutorial! Helped me tons on my halo reach helmet! Thanks
MikyVengeance
Well-Known Member
Very awesome tutorial! Helped me tons on my halo reach helmet! Thanks
I started my grenade project today and got the pep constructed. Saying it took longer then expected would be an understatement haha. Since this is my first real hands on project, how do I rondo/smooth cast the interior after I resin the exterior considering there is no hole to pour the stuff in? Maybe drilling a hole?
Pretty fun so far, but I can only assume this was the easy part.
Pretty fun so far, but I can only assume this was the easy part.
BenStreeper said:
ok, i understand if you want to mould it. as long as you dont start recasting and selling them on ebay, that was the main concerns.
and its the plague helmet from global agenda, which (global agenda i mean) has (in my opinion) some of the most badass armor in the gaming world. if there was any reason for a propper to get it, the armor would be up there.
(heres the full suit im making (aka the referance pic)
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BenStreeper
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sdhoigt said:ok, i understand if you want to mould it. as long as you dont start recasting and selling them on ebay, that was the main concerns.
and its the plague helmet from global agenda, which (global agenda i mean) has (in my opinion) some of the most badass armor in the gaming world. if there was any reason for a propper to get it, the armor would be up there.
(heres the full suit im making (aka the referance pic)
ok, this is said in a non-mean way but I have to inform you that the word ReCasting is a very insulting term. 1stly because I would be doing all of the actual work on this helmet so the term would not apply. Also because it is used to out people who can't do there own work so they buy other peoples finished pieced, re-mold them without permission and sell extremely cheap, crappy versions to people (which ultimately soils the name of the original artist). That being said I will step off my soapbox.
If I make a helmet for someone I always let them know that yes I will mold it,and yes I will sell some. That's how I make back the money I put in, and continue to make newer projects. But I can't in good conscience tell you that I wouldn't sell any, because I will. I will however also fully video making the helmet just Like I am doing with the Lone Wolf helmet.
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BenStreeper said:
i think we have had a little misunderstanding due to my wording...
what i was asking originally was if i could pep, reinforce, all that stuff (which i have done before). i was wondering if you could show me how to put the separate pieces together without destroying the helmet (so i could do it on the rest of the suit). the helmet has several parts which go through eachother (what you would do a bolean join to fix on the models, but a bolean join was impossible with these models).
and i did not mean to insult with the word recast, im still new here so i didnt know 100% what the word meant.
but either way, now that i have been given the go ahead by Hi-Rez to release the files, it doesnt really matter, because you can sell the pieces however much you want
p.s. actually, i was planning on moulding myself, so i could make one copy battle ready, and one copy for the devs at Hi-Rez
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BenStreeper
Well-Known Member
OXM_Chase said:
Check sizing, Most (but not all) of the time fewer sheets means a smaller piece.
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BenStreeper
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OXM_Chase said:
correct sir
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Spartan 051
Well-Known Member
sdhoigt said:
not to get way off topic here but why dont you fold it an detail it all your self sounds like your looking for some one to do most of the work while you mold it just my two cents
but get tutorials ben.
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If there are less pieces in one model then there are in another, does it also mean less detail and that I'll have to work harder to bring that detail out when sanding? It's something I notice when comparing lets say two versions of the Mark VI helmet. One looked a little different then the other.
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