How To Make A Helmet From Pep To Finish

[Hawk77]

If there are less pieces in one model then there are in another, does it also mean less detail and that I'll have to work harder to bring that detail out when sanding? It's something I notice when comparing lets say two versions of the Mark VI helmet. One looked a little different then the other.

Ok, by all means I am no professional at this but in my opinion and from my 1 pep experience (which is still not complete) you are only going to get out of it what you put in it. The finishing details on any helmet whether less/more pep peices will depend on how much detail you want after pep'ing. For example, I'm working on dung0beetle's helmet which to me is pretty darn detailed, however I have bondo'd/sanded 3 or 4 times and I'm still not where I want to be even though it is highly detailed (in my opinion). I mean if you are just looking for the basic shape and you want to throw bondo on it and just sand a little and then wear it I would use the more detailed pep because the shape would be more true, however more detail means more initial work with the pep'ing, less detail means more finishing materials to build up the details depending on what you want your finished model to represent. However I'm probably speaking out of my butt cause I'm not as expeirenced as Mr. Steeper or others around here but this is what I gather from what I have done.



Less detail pep=more bondo/filler, still have to detail

More detail pep=less bondo/filler, still have to detail



Sorry if this doesn't answer your question.



This is where I'm at after applying 3 coats of bondo and then plaster and that's just on the faceplate, head and half the back and I'm still not close to being finished.



NOTE: Please use any tut's you find as posted by Mr. Streeper and others. The only reason I'm using plaster is because I bought a bucket of it to repair a wall and it will go to waste, I'm also looking for a job and have a 1 and 2 year old at home and I only get about 30 mins a day to work on it so I'm trying anything to speed it up. Mr. Streeper sent me a tut on what I think he used plaster on, on page 5 or 6 of this thread. (I haven't had time to watch it yet, but I will to see where I'm messing up). I would suggest watching it before doing anything in plaster.

 

[OXM Chase]

Excellent! You answered my question and then some. Thanks for the detailed explanation Hawk







I'm in the middle of scoring the valley and mountain lines, and notice that the cut lines intersect with the mountain/valley in some parts. There is a hint of a tab where the cut line and mountain line is but not enough for me to be able to glue the two together or fold it.

The line that I think I have to cut is a lot slimmer then it appears in these images, but I don't know if I cut it all the way since the cut line and fold line merge together



[attachment=15657:IMAG0030.jpg][attachment=15655:IMAG0030.jpg][attachment=15656:IMAG0031.jpg]

 

[DR4296]

Just wanted to say "Thank you VERY much for your posted videos!"



They do clear up a lot of misconceptions and holes in my brain that I had after reading through the various stickies here.



Definitely subscribing to this post!

 

[Hawk77]

Excellent! You answered my question and then some. Thanks for the detailed explanation Hawk







I'm in the middle of scoring the valley and mountain lines, and notice that the cut lines intersect with the mountain/valley in some parts. There is a hint of a tab where the cut line and mountain line is but not enough for me to be able to glue the two together or fold it.

The line that I think I have to cut is a lot slimmer then it appears in these images, but I don't know if I cut it all the way since the cut line and fold line merge together



[attachment=15657:IMAG0030.jpg][attachment=15655:IMAG0030.jpg][attachment=15656:IMAG0031.jpg]

To me that peice in the last photo (which is the only one I can see) looks like a mountain fold, now that being said I can't tell you how to cut it for sure because I can't see the whole peice. But here is my opinion on that particular picture, it looks like the cut goes all the way to the point, if that is the case and you are worried about not having enough tab to glue, just take a scrap peice of card stock and make yourself a longer tab. That's what I would do.

 

[BenStreeper]

Excellent! You answered my question and then some. Thanks for the detailed explanation Hawk







I'm in the middle of scoring the valley and mountain lines, and notice that the cut lines intersect with the mountain/valley in some parts. There is a hint of a tab where the cut line and mountain line is but not enough for me to be able to glue the two together or fold it.

The line that I think I have to cut is a lot slimmer then it appears in these images, but I don't know if I cut it all the way since the cut line and fold line merge together



[attachment=15657:IMAG0030.jpg][attachment=15655:IMAG0030.jpg][attachment=15656:IMAG0031.jpg]

just cut the line and kinda turn the piece in a bit to glue. You probably will not need to do a very angled fold there so just bend it slightly if needed otherwise leave the shape as is after gluing.

 

[phixix]

My friend tried rondo and used the exact consistensy you did in your vid but after 3 days it's still sticky. We're up in scotland so the temprature rarely goes above 5 degrees at this time of the year and we don't have access to the bondo filler brand. We use an industrial type of filler which is the only one available to us and it's extremely thick compared to bondo..

And ideas? =(



-Phi

 

[BenStreeper]

My friend tried rondo and used the exact consistensy you did in your vid but after 3 days it's still sticky. We're up in scotland so the temprature rarely goes above 5 degrees at this time of the year and we don't have access to the bondo filler brand. We use an industrial type of filler which is the only one available to us and it's extremely thick compared to bondo..

And ideas? =(



-Phi

If it doesn't get above 5 degrees you will have to use an industrial heater to raise the temp above 60, otherwise the materials wont cure. I also recommend adding in additional hardener when working in lower than 70 degrees (Just as an added measure). Do you have pics of what you are working on? And now after 3 days it is very unlikely you will be able to salvage the piece unless you worked in small areas like I do. Please, please, please tell me that you followed my advise about resining small parts of the helmet at a time before rondoing.... If so we can save your piece.

 

[sdhoigt]

If it doesn't get above 5 degrees you will have to use an industrial heater to raise the temp above 60, otherwise the materials wont cure. I also recommend adding in additional hardener when working in lower than 70 degrees (Just as an added measure). Do you have pics of what you are working on? And now after 3 days it is very unlikely you will be able to salvage the piece unless you worked in small areas like I do. Please, please, please tell me that you followed my advise about resining small parts of the helmet at a time before rondoing.... If so we can save your piece.

I think they mean 5*C . 60*C would just be insane :lol

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

If it doesn't get above 5 degrees you will have to use an industrial heater to raise the temp above 60, otherwise the materials wont cure.



...

That’s not true. I have used resin, bondo, and rondo in -16 degree weather, and the cure time did not go any longer then it would have in 60 degree weather. I didn't even use a heater, and this was out doors with 2 feet of snow on the ground. However, I did use extra hardener, and it was a little tacky after it dried. Regardless, the tackiness was easily fixed with some baby powder sprinkled onto the surface of the pep piece.

 

[BenStreeper]

ok to end this debate here it is direct from 3m (AKA Bondo)



Apply layer of mixed filler over repair area using firm pressure to assure maximum adhesion. If necessary apply multiple coats to build contour higher for

sanding. Use of a dust mask is recommended. Do not apply layers of filler that exceed 1/4-inch in thickness.

For best results apply at 45°F (7°C) or above. Temperatures below 60ºF may lengthen cure times by 5 to 10 minutes. For clean-up, use Acetone.



SO yes it will harder, it just takes longer.



more info can be found here



MSDS

 

[BenStreeper]

 

[BenStreeper]

 

[BenStreeper]

 

[BenStreeper]

 

[BenStreeper]

 

[BenStreeper]

 

[BenStreeper]

 

[BenStreeper]

 

[BenStreeper]

Wow, that was a lot of videos.



Enjoy the boredom...



Due to technical difficulties with my camera (Error code: I-D-1-0-T) I lost some videos in between, however I will explain what was missed in the next marathon of videos.

 

[phixix]

If it doesn't get above 5 degrees you will have to use an industrial heater to raise the temp above 60, otherwise the materials wont cure. I also recommend adding in additional hardener when working in lower than 70 degrees (Just as an added measure). Do you have pics of what you are working on? And now after 3 days it is very unlikely you will be able to salvage the piece unless you worked in small areas like I do. Please, please, please tell me that you followed my advise about resining small parts of the helmet at a time before rondoing.... If so we can save your piece.

Thanks for the reply Ben! My friend is actually working on the Plasma cutter from Dead Space, and the Rondo cocktail he used was for applying to the outside of the gun rather than inside, is there a different mix reccomended for the outside? Thankfully the gun was resined beforehand so it's peeling off without much harm! We're really limited in terms of heat as working indoors means in someones livingroom and gassing the place out so we'll have to think of something else..

Here's what he's working on if it's any help~

[attachment=15736SCF0759.jpg]

-Phi