New Odst Armor Started

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you dont want to make them for free, at least charge for materiel..... witch i assume you meant.

looks good, cant wait to see it when you get the process down. good luck.
 
that is not really all that hard to do then, i will eventually give that an attempt once i have some stuff worth replicating. what temp do you put the oven at?
 
Hmm... and where do you get the lexan/polycarbonate you used for your visor? I just might have the solution to that damned EVA hellspartan visor...
 
SpartanIII-0324:
Oven temp is set to 360.

Bloodl3tt3r:
McMaster Carr is a good source. I have a local supplier but you have to buy at least a 4'x8' sheet. You might want to look into blow molding Lexan for the Hellspartan visor. Instead of sucking plastic down onto a form you create a sealed box with a "hole" that matches the edge of the visor shape you want to produce. Attach the plastic so that when you apply air pressure to the inside of the box the plastic creates a bubble as it is forced out. Of course making the "hole" is the hard part, especially if the edges of the visor shape are not in the same plane.

Here's a visor from .040 PETG:

visor1.jpg


I like the way PETG forms and cuts but it is not as stiff as Lexan or an acrylic. It will work just fine though. I'll probably make visors for those who have requested them thus far this weekend. I had another couple of ideas on the tint. Has anybody tried tinting plastic with auto tint film before vacuum forming? I'll try it but I wonder if the adhesive can take the heat. The other idea was to tint Future floor wax with dye and dip the visors. It used to work for model airplane canopies just great back when I used to build them.
 
rube said:
Has anybody tried tinting plastic with auto tint film before vacuum forming? I'll try it but I wonder if the adhesive can take the heat.

Auto window tint beings to "melt" or "curl up" under a basic heat gun...oven temperatures will destroy the film itself, not the glue.

You're better off just buying colored acrylic and using it instead of starting with clear plastic.
 
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4ng31:
Auto tint film is polyester, just like PETG. I have no doubt that when applied to the .040 sheet I'm using it would melt at the same temp. I worry that the adhesive will offgas and create bubbles between the layers. We'll find out tomorrow. I agree that using pretinted stock would be the way to go but I can't find any in a thickness that My ImproVac 3000 can handle:)

The experiment with Future and black Rit fabric dye was a fail. The dye coagulated the Future on contact. Trying black ink later today.
 
Thanks for the advice... although I don't think I could use the blow molding method. For one, there's details on the visor that need to be put in... so I couldn't do that. I'll look into it... once I finish the pep. lol
 
To tint future try using model paints. I use tamiya acrylics which tends to work fairly well. Whatever you do use make sure it is mixable with amonia/windex cause amonia/windex is a solvent for future. This includes water soluable dyes and paints. Also to get the metalic shine try using a silver sharpie. apply sharpie to as napkin and wait a little for it to semi-dri as you would if dry brushing then buff on to desired part. There should be a very fine layer of the metalic residue left on buffed part. It will require sealing of some sort to become dureable, maybe future? Havent tried future but krylon clear coat kinda attacked the silver and plastic. future usually isnt so harsh. If the sharpie on the napkin didn't dry enough you'll get a smear. Just rub super hard to get it off then try again. Hope this works cause you're visors look supper cool!!!!!

Cheers,
ZONKRE
 
ZONKRE said:
To tint future try using model paints. I use tamiya acrylics which tends to work fairly well. Whatever you do use make sure it is mixable with amonia/windex cause amonia/windex is a solvent for future. This includes water soluable dyes and paints. Also to get the metalic shine try using a silver sharpie. apply sharpie to as napkin and wait a little for it to semi-dri as you would if dry brushing then buff on to desired part. There should be a very fine layer of the metalic residue left on buffed part. It will require sealing of some sort to become dureable, maybe future? Havent tried future but krylon clear coat kinda attacked the silver and plastic. future usually isnt so harsh. If the sharpie on the napkin didn't dry enough you'll get a smear. Just rub super hard to get it off then try again. Hope this works cause you're visors look supper cool!!!!!

Cheers,
ZONKRE

And you can see through these?
 
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Zonkre:
The idea with the silver marker is a really good one but I won't need it for this visor. It's just black. I broke down and ordered something I know will work.

870-SP999.jpg


VHT Niteshades
 
hmm...never saw that stuff before. looks cool. cant wait to see if it how it looks. How dark does it get?? gray? dark gray? or dark charcoal ??




bloodletter you cans see through the very thin metallic residue layer of the marker. only bits of the shiny particles get left behind almost like very very fine dust. ( sry rube little off topic)

ZONKRE
 
A small update:

Chest bits, cloth for the left chest armor started.

chest1.jpg


Neck and shoulders.

neck1.jpg


Tinted visor.

helmvisor1.jpg

helmvisor2.jpg
 
NICE! Yeah, I think that the method you used for forming the visor should work fine on an EVA visor, I'll just need to make the table side walls a little higher to fit the whole thing.

Also, why cloth on the chest piece? I thought those were metal.
 
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