The "official" Rellik Nissassa Wip

[RELLIK NISSASSA]

Good find with that cheaper casting resin.



This method is very nice, though I find it tricky to do with some of the parts that aren't shaped as conducive to roto-casting, but with a little ingenuity that can be worked around. Definitely what I'm going to be trying with my next suit. Gotta finish up using the 'ol glass/resin for my current one though.

Thanks for the feedback.



Also, I have to give credit to whoever found the cheaper resin. It was in the noob forum in one of the getting started threads or something, so once I find it again, I will be sure to site my source.



Helmet construction is under way, gang. I saved the best for last.

 

[Quazie]

Does anyone know wether you paper resin the inside or outside or both if so could anyone leave a message on my account please ill try and help anyone who informs me but i have a very basic knowledge but ill give it my all

 

[RELLIK NISSASSA]

Does anyone know wether you paper resin the inside or outside or both if so could anyone leave a message on my account please ill try and help anyone who informs me but i have a very basic knowledge but ill give it my all

Both.



Inside first, so that the pep will keep is shape and not warp. Then, the outside so that you can bondo it and the bondo will stick to the resin.

 

[RELLIK NISSASSA]

Ok Gang, here is the helmet in progress (as you will learn, I am a man of my word and I am doing the helmet last).

Hope to finish by toda if I can get off my butt and be productive.

 

[ponchato]

Are you using... hot glue? The tabs look way to clean to be held together with hot glue. Plain old Elmer's?

 

[RELLIK NISSASSA]

Well, as I am a man of my word, the helmet is pepped, and has been done last.



With out further delay......

This took me quite a while to finish, and I had to use a combination of super glue gel, regular super glue, and hot glue.



There is a bit of shiftage/ warpage, but I plan on correcting the shifts before pouring the casting resin.



I'll keep you posted, and please feel free to comment away, and be looking for the progressing WIP. Resin and bondo, here I come.

 

[le yo ra]

cool helm . . .



by the way, the casting or fiberglass resin are the same, they are both resin. really,there are no difference...



if it is used to cast(by using mold or base), it is called casting resin...



then,



if it is used with fiberglass, now it is fiberglass resin.... weird huh....



correct me if i'm wrong guys,it's ok...hehe



anyway.... goodluck to your nice helm mate.

 

[HaloGoddess]

All your pepped stuff is looking good. Nice clean folds and even the inside where you glued all the tabs looks good too!



Ithica mentioned something to me about this smooth cast stuff and that I should use it inside my helmet since I am doing the haybusa one and trying to fiberglass the inside of the spikes would be extremely hard, basically impossible. I saw the small image of the one you got. Is the cost of the trial size $30!?

 

[Macattack64]

Yea trial is about $30, I bought a gallon.



This is an excelent build so far.



EDIT: His shows a $30 half gallon kit, but it's not from smooth-on.

 

[mchammertime]

Something like that. It's worth the money though. The trial size is enough to finish reinforcing a helmet and you dont have to slave over the fiberglass.

 

[Bamabat]

I used the Smooth-on 320 resin last year for my son's helmet. Made the mold and simply cast a bunch of copies using the Smooth-on 320. HaloGoddess, if you use this stuff inside the spikes make sure you drain it out and build up a single layer at a time. I let it pool up in the brim of one of my casts and it will offset the balance really bad. That stuff is heavy.



The polyester resin should cost less than the epoxy resins and you still could add a bit of fiberglass to the mix if you needed to really strengthen the area. You will need to make several coats but with a 3-4 minute pot life and a 10 minute demold time you can make quick work of it. With 5 sets of armor in progress right now I am going to have to try this. Great idea.





Polyester Material Info:

Polyester resins are the most commonly used matrix in the marine and composite industry. These resins are styrene-based, flammable and catalyzed when combined with Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide(MEKP). When working with these resins in large projects it is advised to use gloves and a chemical respirator to protect yourself from the fumes. These resins can be used with any type of fiberglass, carbon fiber or kevlar, as well as used over urethane foam and other sandwich core materials. These resins tend to be fairly rigid when cured and also more brittle than epoxy resins.



Bamabat

 

[RELLIK NISSASSA]

I used the Smooth-on 320 resin last year for my son's helmet. Made the mold and simply cast a bunch of copies using the Smooth-on 320. HaloGoddess, if you use this stuff inside the spikes make sure you drain it out and build up a single layer at a time. I let it pool up in the brim of one of my casts and it will offset the balance really bad. That stuff is heavy.



The polyester resin should cost less than the epoxy resins and you still could add a bit of fiberglass to the mix if you needed to really strengthen the area. You will need to make several coats but with a 3-4 minute pot life and a 10 minute demold time you can make quick work of it. With 5 sets of armor in progress right now I am going to have to try this. Great idea.





Polyester Material Info:

Polyester resins are the most commonly used matrix in the marine and composite industry. These resins are styrene-based, flammable and catalyzed when combined with Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide(MEKP). When working with these resins in large projects it is advised to use gloves and a chemical respirator to protect yourself from the fumes. These resins can be used with any type of fiberglass, carbon fiber or kevlar, as well as used over urethane foam and other sandwich core materials. These resins tend to be fairly rigid when cured and also more brittle than epoxy resins.



Bamabat

Thanks for reminding me.



Sorry gang. I have been working all along with my gloves, respirator, etc, and did not update the supplies.



If you now view page 1 of this post, you will see the resin supplies list.



Thanks again to everyone for posting, and look for this build to be done before Sept 3rd. I have to get it done for Dragon Con.

 

[RELLIK NISSASSA]

So, I have been working so hard to get as much done as possible.



Right now, everything is resined and covered in bondo, but since I have not shaped the detail into the bondo, then I will just consider it resined, so here is the update:

Only thing is, I will not have my suit done for this weekend at DragonCon, but that is ok. I would rather take my time and make the suit awesome then try to throw it all together in a hurry and ruin the whole thing.



So, I may or may not go to DragonCon because now I do not have my suit done to wear in the parade, and I am not sure if I should go if I have nothing to show.



What do you guys think?



I will already be in Atlanta visiting family, so should I go or not?



Please reply as soon as possible.

 

[Farquaad]

Well, I think you should go.. Especially if you're already gonna be in the area. Dcon in and of itself is a blast regardless of whether you dress up or not! I had a similar conundrum as I did not quite finish my costume to my satisfaction, but I am going anyways. Actually, I decided to do what I needed to make my costume work and I will just redo everything I wasn't satisfied with for next year. So if you see a half-assed Fallout 3 Enclave armor, say hi! It's probably me.

 

[RELLIK NISSASSA]

Wow.



Ok.



I know that it has been forever since I have posted an update, so I wanted to show everyone how my work is coming, as I had to put the project on hold for a while.



When I last posted, I was considering whethere or not to go to Dragon Con, and I decided not to. This was ok, as it saved me money, my wife and I went to the beach, and we had a great trip.



Since I have gotten home, I have been bondo-ing like crazy, and moved my work to the basement, as this will be a messy phase of the project.



So, here goes nothing.

Now, I know that all the bondo-ed stuff looks like poo, but God willing... I am gonna sand and shape and dremel my way to the top (I have already started, but I haven't taken pictures of the semi-sanded stuff what). So, I will try to get done the brunt of it this weekend, but of course I will not work on the sabbath.



So, comment away, and look for some great shots Sunday and Monday.



P.S. I already have everything to mold and cast, and I will be revealing it all later.



See you soon.

 

[RELLIK NISSASSA]

So, I have really been working hard on finishing the suit build, and I have learned a few things.



1. Do the HD peps. This will save you a ton of bondo-ing, sanding, and frustration in the end.

2. This is really hard work. I didn't realize just how long and how much it would take, but I am learning.

3. Take the occasional break. I can see why it takes most people a year to do their suit. If you try to rush, or do it all within an unrealistic amount of time, it will burn you out.

4. Patience.

5. Know why you are doing this. It will remind you to keep going and that it is worth it. I have a picture of a finished suit up on my wall, and I look at it when I need the inspiration. I even imagine my suit being done, and wearing it around, and just feeling that sense of accomplishment inside my resined helmet.

6. It really helps when people post positive encouragement on here to keep you going. Say....... that would sure be nice right about now.

 

[halodude164]

great job man! it's lookin exellent. it is alot of work. i'm doin it on mine, but at least it's almost done (in like 3 1/2 months too!!) it isn't final, but i wanted something i mde from scratch to wear for halloween. my final one will be when i'm molding it. yous is looking great though, and i can see the time you put into it. great job and kep it up

 

[bboyfresco]

just wondering why you bondoed the visor area on the helmet?

 

[RELLIK NISSASSA]

just wondering why you bondoed the visor area on the helmet?

This is a good question.



The answer is so that when I cast it, it has a smooth finish to prevent wasting of materials, both mold rubber and casting resin.



Thanks for the inquiry.



By the way, nice Iron Man suit.

 

[RELLIK NISSASSA]

great job man! it's lookin exellent. it is alot of work. i'm doin it on mine, but at least it's almost done (in like 3 1/2 months too!!) it isn't final, but i wanted something i mde from scratch to wear for halloween. my final one will be when i'm molding it. yous is looking great though, and i can see the time you put into it. great job and kep it up

Thank you so much for the enthusiasm and the positive encouragement. It really does help, and it's good to hear from someone who is doing it right along at the same pace.



Now, we just have to work diligantly and persistantly to finish in time for Haloween, and that IS possible as long as we do it.



You keep up the good work as well.