My First Pieces Of Armor( Doing Hd Chest)

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I find it much better if you cut all the pep out first and fold it then glue and or tape but it seems your off to a good start with the pep and a lil hint if ur going to tape put it on the inside that way the resin doesnt melt it away as fast
 
KiT said:
I find it much better if you cut all the pep out first and fold it then glue and or tape but it seems your off to a good start with the pep and a lil hint if ur going to tape put it on the inside that way the resin doesnt melt it away as fast
Thanks what ive been doing so when i glass the inside it will stiffin before the tape is desolved.
 
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Zenzeigan said:
you obviously havent got to the resin/fibreglassing stage.

everybody knows that resin/fibreglass/bondo MELTS any kind of tape. even melts some glue's

please dont ecnourage people to use stuff when you have no idea what youre talking about

Says the guy who hasn't gotten beyond the Pepakura stage himself.

I'm kind of late to the party, but welcome to the Pepakura scene. You've made a few mistakes, but nothing that can't be redone.

1. NEVAR use tape. It may hold up at first, but it will literally be melted by Fiberglass Resin. Not only that, its adhesive properties are less than longlasting.

2. Don't reinforce with cardboard if you're using printer paper. The paper will wrap around the cardboard when resined and end up in a deformed mess.

3. There are three advisable glues to replace tape:
-Hot glue: Hot glue is cheap and easy to find, but causes large amounts of warping, and will burn you if you don't wear medium-thickness gloves.
-Super glue: Superglue is extremely fast, but the most costly of the three and the most annoying (if you get it on your fingers/hands, your skin will stick together).
-Elmer's glue: Elmer's is a medium. It has a slower drying time, but has more time to adjust position. It is pretty cheap and is only needed in extremely small amounts, such as the end of a toothpick.

Good luck on your...stuff!
 
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Good start man! You could probably patch up those holes with spare cardstock cut to shape and glued on. With some bondo on it you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference!
 
For future refrence, resin eats away scotch tape, I use apiece or two on the outside of my armor sometimes, and I have to resin the inside first, or else if I do outside, the scotch tape will disolve into gummy stuff and everything in that area falls apart. I always use elmers all purpose glue, but some tight spots are just impossible to get with elmers. I try to never use tape, but every piece I make has 1-2 small tiny pieces of tape.

Even on my helmet, I resined the inside first, then the outside, the tape all dissolved and came off. I was lucky to do the inside of the helmet first, or else that tab with the tape would have come off.
 
ImaGonnaGetYou said:
Says the guy who hasn't gotten beyond the Pepakura stage himself.

I'm kind of late to the party, but welcome to the Pepakura scene. You've made a few mistakes, but nothing that can't be redone.

1. NEVAR use tape. It may hold up at first, but it will literally be melted by Fiberglass Resin. Not only that, its adhesive properties are less than longlasting.

2. Don't reinforce with cardboard if you're using printer paper. The paper will wrap around the cardboard when resined and end up in a deformed mess.

3. There are three advisable glues to replace tape:
-Hot glue: Hot glue is cheap and easy to find, but causes large amounts of warping, and will burn you if you don't wear medium-thickness gloves.
-Super glue: Superglue is extremely fast, but the most costly of the three and the most annoying (if you get it on your fingers/hands, your skin will stick together).
-Elmer's glue: Elmer's is a medium. It has a slower drying time, but has more time to adjust position. It is pretty cheap and is only needed in extremely small amounts, such as the end of a toothpick.

Good luck on your...stuff!

*sigh* i have got further than the pep stage, alot further, completed some pices fully, but then later sold.

stop assuming stuff, if you want to atempt to piss me off, please do it in pm's. not on topics, im sure members dont like our ranting on their topics, lets end it here.

INVISIBLE POST ~ Spase
 
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Oh noes. Alright, good progress so far but I advise you stop, go buy some cardstock (110lb) and a hot-glue gun (with glue sticks) before you go any further. As said before, backing your printer paper with cardboard will cause warping and tape will make your project fail. So, before you get to far into the project, I suggest you redo/continue using cardstock and hot glue.

- Adulese

PS: Sorry if I sound a bit annoying, but I really don't want to see you waste a lot of your time.
 
o wait the boots is old i redid one for a HD and i have card stock and elmers glue which work great.
100_5312.jpg

100_5313.jpg
 
looks like you got the right stuff! I use hot glue because of its amazing properties (just look @ my progress thread), i prefer that over elmers, though i have used both before.
dont try the HD stuff until you are comfortable and are skilled with the low-detail stuff. Im just warning you, you will be spared a lot of grief if you know what you are doing beforehand.
the only real reason we tell you to use cardstock is because it is much more resilient to the fiberglass resin, and i know how heavy that stuff is, it is thick and gooey and you do not want the paper sagging while you are working with it.

and yes, i know what im talking about. keep up the good work.
 
OK im not doing the HD chest any more for a little while because i dont have enough paper and i cant figure out where to put ing my scaling. I will be working on a hd thigh
 
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