3D Printable Halo 4 Files (WIP)

WandererTJ · Jul 24, 2014

harican89 said:
Yeah...what kind of printer was that? my is a home printer with the FFD method. its cheaper and without a dual extruder its impossible to get more than one color there is another method which used ABS powder which costs way more. maybe they used a printer like that.

It was a large Dimension printer with 2 heads and a 10x10x12" print volume, with one head printing regular ABS plastic for the actual model, and the other head printing out support material for the model out of dissolvable ABS plastic.
We had to toss our models into a bath after they got done printing and it would eat away at the support material.

harican89 · Jul 24, 2014

WandererTJ said:
the other head printing out support material for the model out of dissolvable ABS plastic.

Yeah i know that plastic. its called HIPS filament. its great but expensive and i dont know if its worth the money.

the other problem is my dual extruder has to be configured correctly :-D currently i use the second printing head just for backup

Chernobyl · Jul 24, 2014

harican89 said:
wtf? 10$/in³? thats way to expensive. the abs i used costs about 30€/1000g which equals 30€ / 990cm³ (40,39$ / 60,41 in³).

the weapon itself costs nearly 7€ in production for the material. +electricity, +working time (3d & set-up time), +depreciation
iam gona sell these weapons for about 40€ + shipping

Put me on your list for one. I will fling my money at you.

nintendstroid · Jul 29, 2014

i'd buy it! am I correct that you are in germany? I'm in the netherlands so cheap shipping.
I'd rather buy your files so i can print it on my own. that way i can print it differently or fix it if i mess up a part. would that be possible?

Chernobyl · Jul 29, 2014

nintendstroid said:
i'd buy it! am I correct that you are in germany? I'm in the netherlands so cheap shipping.
I'd rather buy your files so i can print it on my own. that way i can print it differently or fix it if i -snip- up a part. would that be possible?

Watch the language - we don't support swearing on the 405th.

nintendstroid · Jul 29, 2014

changed it.... I didn't know that.. was it that offensive?

Chernobyl · Jul 29, 2014

nintendstroid said:
changed it.... I didn't know that.. was it that offensive?

Personally, no - I can stand a little cussing. But we're a board rated for all ages, and some people might not take too kindly to vulgar language. Bear in mind, we have minors and young people on the forum, and we're supposed to be presenting a mature attitude across the community - casual cursing doesn't really convey a sense of maturity.

That said, I'm not seeing an alteration. Double-check to ensure you've gotten the language out of your post, please, and we'll speak no more of it.

nintendstroid · Jul 30, 2014

Arcanine said:
Personally, no - I can stand a little cussing. But we're a board rated for all ages, and some people might not take too kindly to vulgar language. Bear in mind, we have minors and young people on the forum, and we're supposed to be presenting a mature attitude across the community - casual cursing doesn't really convey a sense of maturity.

That said, I'm not seeing an alteration. Double-check to ensure you've gotten the language out of your post, please, and we'll speak no more of it.

fixed. dont know what went wrong you can delete these useless posts now..

Master Builder · Jul 30, 2014

Nice prints!

I really want a 3d printer. What can a 3d artist want more?

The cheapest one I found was the Portabee $500 http://portabee3dprinter.com
Of course you would have to adjust and go over everything to make it print as good as it says.

My other option is to build one myself, which isn't hard, it just takes time.

Btw, if you want some help on making high poly models, I might have some time to spare.

Nathan Allan · Aug 2, 2014

That pistol looks excellent printed!! GREAT JOB!! I'd love to take a stab at it with the Afinia here, that's my printer. If you ever release the files I'd love to make one!!!

WandererTJ · Aug 7, 2014

harican89 said:
Yeah i know that plastic. its called HIPS filament. its great but expensive and i dont know if its worth the money.

the other problem is my dual extruder has to be configured correctly :-D currently i use the second printing head just for backup

You should totally set your 2nd head up and do some dual colored prints!!!

In regards to the support material, I'm honestly not sure if certain printers or print jobs need to make use of it over others.
Maybe our school printer just wasn't very good.
Here's something I printed out (with all the support material still on it): https://d2t1xqejof9utc.cloudfront.net/screenshots/pics/28c4c87de80453e5a8e1fc7f3000d867/large.jpg
I think the model is maybe 8-inches tall or so; I'd have to go measure it since its been a while.
If you follow this link, it shows some pics of how it turned out after all the support material had dissolved off:
https://grabcad.com/library/1969-chevelle-300-deluxe-transformer-based-on-the-character-springer-1

But yeah, by printing with support material, both the car and the statuette probably cost about $100-$150 in materials.

Sorry if I'm derailing, I just love talking about 3D-Printing with other people.

I'm really glad to see that your models don't deform despite the fact that you don't use support material. Like I said, maybe different printers are just vastly superior to others and don't need it, or maybe it is just the level of complexity of the model, I don't know...

harican89 · Aug 13, 2014

yeah i want to use the second head just for the hips support structure. but ive time and i dont want to rush

since my printer is working great (have some problems last week) iam on my way to MarkV of the M6H.

this time i want to get a threaded part and a barrel part inside of the slide. inside the barrel the user only has to attach a spring. i just want to make the movable slide as easy as possible to install.

the inside of the slide is closed with a seperate screw (100% infill), which is attached by a custom allen wrench tool. hope this will work. i will print out an example within the next hours. wish me luck ;-)

KingRahl · Aug 13, 2014

I hope I didn't read that wrong. If I did you can choose to ignore this advice. Are you 3d printing the screw insert? It's hard to tell by the picture of your clearance. I've found it a good clearance of 0.5-0.8mm.

"Stripping" your threads is always a concern with plastic. Giving them a quick vapor bath will help case harden them. This however will round your tips. Cleaning them up with a tap and die kit helps to finish it.

If you use a tap and die. I would just print it smooth bored, with at least 3 wall thickness, and just use the tap and die (coarse thread). It's hard (but not impossible) to match your printed threads to a nut or bolt.

harican89 · Aug 13, 2014

KingRahl said:
Are you 3d printing the screw insert?

Nope. I dont want to print this insertet. ive print this seperated and the screw came out pretty nice (70% infill). the threaded slide is slightly larger than the screw.
sadly the allan screw head disappointed me... the printer have some problems with these kind of screws (actually its kinda big... dont know where the problem is)... so i try to use the allen wrench and i doesnt fit... a smaller metal wrench did his job, but i ruinied the inner corners. so i redesigned the screw head and got a slot screwdriver head instead.

KingRahl said:
"Stripping" your threads is always a concern with plastic. Giving them a quick vapor bath will help case harden them. This however will round your tips. Cleaning them up with a tap and die kit helps to finish it.
If you use a tap and die. I would just print it smooth bored, with at least 3 wall thickness, and just use the tap and die (coarse thread). It's hard (but not impossible) to match your printed threads to a nut or bolt.

sounds great. especially the screw could need a smooth finish and 3 wall thickness (3 shells?) is a clever idea... lots of my connector sticks has broken until i scale the infill up

Sry for the big image... i tried tapatalk image upload the first time

btw... the slide part was just a small slice. now i will print the complete one.

KingRahl · Aug 13, 2014

Looks great.

I didn't mean that you were going to print the screw "inserted" in while printing, I meant the screw IS the insert.

A small file such as a triangle file helps to smooth and shrink the threads on the screw. It's time consuming but helps.

harican89 · Aug 13, 2014

KingRahl said:
A small file such as a triangle file helps to smooth and shrink the threads on the screw. It's time consuming but helps.

ahhh... i dont know what you mean :-D
could you draw me a picture xD

here is a picture you can edit like you wish.

i want to improve my ability with blender, so iam glad that you can help me to improve my files.
what ive done to get the screws:

blender plugin "bolt maker" or something like that. the thread in the slide is a nut with a height of nearly 15cm reduced to the inner side.
the screw is a normal screw with the same settings but with 0.15mm less inner and outer diameter. its working, but the printer has some problems with the screw indead.

KingRahl · Aug 13, 2014

Using a triangle file: A triangle will have even angles of 120 degrees. These extreme angles allows you to fit the file between the thread pitch. The file takes away the plastic a little at a time. Following down the inside you will open up the valley for the threads of what you are threading into. If the outside of your threads are too large, you can put it in the chuck of a drill and allow the file to rub evenly down the outside.

You are using a "bolt maker" plug in? In the modifiers, there is a screw modifier. http://cgcookie.com/blender/2010/03/25/tip-using-the-screw-modifier/ is a tutorial on how to use it.

To get your clearance: You can use the "Boolean" modifier to make exact threads inside the "nut". Then to get your clearance, on your "Properties" shelf, subtract double your clearance from both widths in your "dimensions" section (NOT scale). So if you have the outside thread measurement of 25mm, and want a clearance of 0.5mm, you will subtract 1mm. Making the nut 25mm and the bolt 24mm. Do not scale the length of the bolt. This will change the pitch of the threads and will not screw into your nut.

Confused? I can make a video if you need.

Termhn · Aug 13, 2014

WandererTJ said:
Okay, so about 13.31 cubic inches, and if you are getting your plastic at $10/in3, then that would put the full model at costing around $133, right?

Oldish post but just to show,
1kg / 2.2lb of ABS = $20 @ micro center
density of ABS = 0.0376 lb/in^3

2.2lb / 0.0376 lb/in^3 = 58.51 in^3

$20 / 58.5 in^3 = $0.34/in^3

13.3 in^3 * $0.34/in^3 = $4.5

Point out if I made a stupid mistake...

Vrogy · Aug 13, 2014

Termhn said:
Oldish post but just to show,
1kg / 2.2lb of ABS = $20 @ micro center
density of ABS = 0.0376 lb/in^3

2.2lb / 0.0376 lb/in^3 = 58.51 in^3

$20 / 58.5 in^3 = $0.34/in^3

13.3 in^3 * $0.34/in^3 = $4.5

Point out if I made a stupid mistake...

Professional services charge for their costs, and a margin for profit.
You haven't considered the base cost of the printer itself, utilities, real estate, labor.. each of these is kind of huge, and the simple math of the price of the plastic is only the beginning.

Also, he mentioned earlier that the price was a fixed 10$/cubic inch for the service he used. Sounds round, but market economics are certainly at play here..

Termhn · Aug 13, 2014

Vrogy said:
Professional services charge for their costs, and a margin for profit.
You haven't considered the base cost of the printer itself, utilities, real estate, labor.. each of these is kind of huge, and the simple math of the price of the plastic is only the beginning.

Also, he mentioned earlier that the price was a fixed 10$/cubic inch for the service he used. Sounds round, but market economics are certainly at play here..

Yeah, I know... This wasn't really a professional service though it was at his school + he said they said it barely paid for materials.

I also don't think he was talking about the cost of the printer, utilities etc... He was solely talking about the abs. Of course, from a professional stand point you have to take those into account for charging for your service but I think we were assuming just the cost of raw material in this context.

Plus, most places have a local hackerspace you can go to and use their printer free of charge, though they may ask you to bring your own filament or make a donation to help buy what you use.

3D Printable Halo 4 Files (WIP)

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