3d Printable Spartan Laser

[macktruck]

Hello everyone,
I just joined the forum. I haven't found any posts about rules, but hopefully this post will be appropriate for this sub-forum.

I recently got the urge to design and build a printable spartan laser. There seems to be only one good resource on the internet and it's from thingiverse. Unfortunately it's a low poly model and has many problems for printing. It's a great starting point, but the large faces and floating parts would make it a nightmare to print and sand.

I've decided to try to design a light weight, hollow , high detail spartan laser It will be segmented into parts that will give the best printing result, have registration keys to align all parts and easy to cover seams. Eventually I might add mounts for electronics like servos, laser/LED, speakers and a small lcd.

I'll try to keep this photo up to date, but you can clearly see the difference between the original on the right and my derivative work on the left. I hope there is some interest in this project. Cheers.

 

[Austin3991]

I can't wait to see this get done man! You're awesome for doing this!

 

[macktruck]

Okay, little update. Slow progress when I'm literally redesigning every bolt. I've been simplifying the mesh from the source material. With over 37,000 faces, it takes a while to do it manually. Here are a few random details I've cleaned the mesh. 5k faces done by hand.

Also, leaned a good lesson. Save often and save as a different file version after any progress.

 

[mblackwell1002]

Okay, little update. Slow progress when I'm literally redesigning every bolt. I've been simplifying the mesh from the source material. With over 37,000 faces, it takes a while to do it manually. Here are a few random details I've cleaned the mesh. 5k faces done by hand.

View attachment 248879

Also, leaned a good lesson. Save often and save as a different file version after any progress.

nice! Are you using Blender to increase the resolution of the model? Or are you designing stuff from scratch?

Can't wait for this. I'll probably use my CNC machine to mill this monster.

 

[macktruck]

Well, I'll use this post to answer mblackwell1002 and ask some questions.

To answer mblackwell1002: Both

The file is in stl format which makes everything into triangles. First step is to convert as much as possible to quads. Blender has a modifier called subsurf which adds geometry to smooth things out, but it only works correctly on quadrilateral and not triangles Triangles cause "pinch points". It's critical that it adds geometry as shaders do not add anything to stl files. So the smooth shader for the viewport does nothing for 3d printing.
It does look like Bugie/Microsoft/343 Industries did a good job making it seem somewhat realistic. It has a basis for a track system, but it's obviously mechanically incomplete. I will have to design the mechanical track system, electronics and programming. I said somewhat realistic because... why does a laser have a recoil? I think I will also do a minor redesign of the front grip because it's messy and it appears it was originally meant to be detachable. Some bolts make serve as plugs to hide real hardware such as real bolts.

So before I ask questions about things that are confusing me, it seems the laser is flipped. So it appears like it's a left handed weapon. I will flip everything so it appears to be a right handed weapon.

So here are some quetions:

• How big in megabytes/kilobytes should I make the final stl files? (i have a beast computer so load times for me aren't huge)
• How long is it in the Halo universe? The model is currently scaled to 1200mm aka 1.2m aka 3.94 feet
• Where did the lcd screen go and what is this extra hidden geometry

PS After looking at the model very closely I'm considering adding a "functional safety" and using cloth to cover the shoulder padding.

 

[macktruck]

Well, tried my first print for this project. Knew it had a high probability of failing but tried it anyway. I'm calling it a spacer. It's for the front of the Spartan Laser. I printed it with a brim but the extruder got stuck on the print and that pretty much ruined the 3 hour print. No big deal. Trying to print it with a raft to see if there is a difference. I would rather not add a seam here. I might design some side support if this doesn't work. Ruler is in inches.

 

[macktruck]

Okay so the print for the spacer worked.I figured this piece is relative small so I added rigidity by increase the infill to 50%. The long and narrow design of the piece requires a raft for additional adhesion to the build plate.
Special print settings (for Spacer):

• 50% infill
• with raft

I did make an error in designing the spacer so I will have to print a shorter version.

I completed designing some plates at the front of the laser. I do want more then normal rigidity but not as much as the spacer. I am also concerned that the flat faces on the top will make it difficult for the top layer so I increased my default top layer height from .6mm to 1mm.
Special print settings (for Plate):

• 20% infill
• brim
• 1mm top/bottom layer

Here is a photo demonstrating how the pieces will be assembled.

 

[mblackwell1002]

Yeah, I've smoothed models in Blender before. But, I prefer to model my stuff in CAD for 3D printing. If I want something mechanical, I can do said mechanisms with ease in comparison to blender. So far, I've modeled a Scattershot, AR, BR, SMG, and am working on a Sniper Rifle. They've all been modeled at high-detail from scratch with CAD. A few of them are semi-functional. And they're all up for free downloads.

Anyway, Here's a link to the measurements: M6 Grindell/Galilean Nonlinear Rifle
Hopefully, that will help you scale this guy.

Keep up the awesome work!

 

[macktruck]

Yeah, I've smoothed models in Blender before. But, I prefer to model my stuff in CAD for 3D printing. If I want something mechanical, I can do said mechanisms with ease in comparison to blender. So far, I've modeled a Scattershot, AR, BR, SMG, and am working on a Sniper Rifle. They've all been modeled at high-detail from scratch with CAD. A few of them are semi-functional. And they're all up for free downloads.

Anyway, Here's a link to the measurements: M6 Grindell/Galilean Nonlinear Rifle
Hopefully, that will help you scale this guy.

Keep up the awesome work!

Ya, I'ved used CAD since the 90s but I currently don't have anything versatile enough. Perhaps I should look into the free version for Fusion 3d. It's always a pain to register for student or hobbyist licenses.Although I imagine it's easier/more accurate to work directly with the vertex data in blender.

Ya, I saw the sniper wip. Kinda looks like google sketchup.

Will definitely have to look for the weapons. I'm just not satisfied with what I find on thingiverse.

Nice, I've seen that page before but but I didn't notice that information. 120 cm is close enough to 119.3cm. So I'll probably not bother scaling it. Pluss I kinda like the round number of 120.

I'm desighning this for the additive process of 3d printing so I kinda concerned about wasted material if you use a cnc machine. How many axis is your cnc machine?

Also a side note for anyone interested. I'm considering making a static first version before I start making a moving second version. So I may choose to sell, my first version for cost of materials.

Also, I'm considering designing a simple "med kit" to store snacks/drinks when I'm cosplaying. Considering making it double walled so the wall can be filled with expanding foam so it will keep food cool.

 

[mblackwell1002]

Ya, I'ved used CAD since the 90s but I currently don't have anything versatile enough. Perhaps I should look into the free version for Fusion 3d. It's always a pain to register for student or hobbyist licenses.Although I imagine it's easier/more accurate to work directly with the vertex data in blender.

Ya, I saw the sniper wip. Kinda looks like google sketchup.

Will definitely have to look for the weapons. I'm just not satisfied with what I find on thingiverse.

Nice, I've seen that page before but but I didn't notice that information. 120 cm is close enough to 119.3cm. So I'll probably not bother scaling it. Pluss I kinda like the round number of 120.

I'm desighning this for the additive process of 3d printing so I kinda concerned about wasted material if you use a cnc machine. How many axis is your cnc machine?

Also a side note for anyone interested. I'm considering making a static first version before I start making a moving second version. So I may choose to sell, my first version for cost of materials.

Also, I'm considering designing a simple "med kit" to store snacks/drinks when I'm cosplaying. Considering making it double walled so the wall can be filled with expanding foam so it will keep food cool.

I use Fusion 360, Blender, SolidWorks, And 3ds Max. I'm not super fluent on 3ds max yet, though.

My mill is a 3-axis Shopbot. It's not huge or anything, but it's affordable and large enough for a project like this. Also not that useful for 3D details, but it definitely works.

I also have a Laser and a 3D printer, lol.

In the search bar, type "FFA series" and check the box that says "Search titles only" there, you will find a series of free 3D printable models of high quality. A few are mine, but most are made by other modelers. There's 3 or 4 other modelers, so you'll find plenty of models.

And by the way...I already designed a medkit for carrying stuff around. It also has a wall rack with spots for LEDs, if you would like to add lights in it. It is part of the FFA series. There's a sweet render there, too. Feel free to modify it for keeping food cool. I won't kill ya for it.

Or will I? lol, kidding.

 

[macktruck]

I got a silly question: what does FFA stand for? First impression is that it means Free For All which in a Halo game context has a double meaning. I suspect it means it's some form of public domain or GNU license.

 

[mblackwell1002]

I got a silly question: what does FFA stand for? First impression is that it means Free For All which in a Halo game context has a double meaning. I suspect it means it's some form of public domain or GNU license.

"free for all" Meaning: community created content free for all to download.

 

[macktruck]

Not sure why I can't upload stl files so I uploaded everything so far to thingiverse. Halo 5 Spartan Laser by macktruck
I will update that page when I'am satisfied with my progress.

 

[macktruck]

Just noticed half my prints are warped cause they lost adhesion to the plate. I always have trouble with flat objects. It's only a mm or two but it throws off the parts alignment. Perhaps I need to use a glue stick or painters tape or redesign the part.

 

[macktruck]

I've been working on the quality of my print and cleaning up the model.

In this mean time, I've been compiling a parts list for all the electronics. This is what I got so far:
Different types of servos:

• Micro servo ID: 169 - $5.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits
  
• Standard servo - TowerPro SG-5010 [5010] ID: 155 - $12.00 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits
  
• Micro Servo - High Powered, High Torque Metal Gear ID: 2307 - $11.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits
  
• Standard Size - High Torque - Metal Gear Servo ID: 1142 - $19.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

A power sullply for testing:

• 5V 4A (4000mA) switching power supply - UL Listed ID: 1466 - $14.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

LCD:

• Adafruit PiTFT - 320x240 2.8 TFT+Touchscreen for Raspberry Pi ID: 1601 - $34.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

Micro-Switch for trigger

• Micro Switch w/Lever - 2 Terminal ID: 818 - $1.50 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

Rotary Switch:

• Rotary Encoder + Extras ID: 377 - $4.50 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

Camera:

• Raspberry Pi Camera Board v2 - 8 Megapixels ID: 3099 - $29.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

Camera extension cable

• Flex Cable for Raspberry Pi Camera - 1 meter ID: 2143 - $3.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

Leds

• Diffused Red 10mm LED (25 pack) ID: 845 - $9.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits
  
• Diffused Red 3mm LED (25 pack) ID: 777 - $4.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

 

[macktruck]

Did some more work today. I'm amazed by how many times I had to redo this small piece, It took several hours. This is a piece which is probably some kind of padding for the shoulder in-game. I'm making the padding a separate set of pieces so it can be covered in cloth(if desired) and fitted to the rest of the model so it will hide the edges of the cloth. I think that's enough work for today, will do more tomorrow.

 

[macktruck]

Okay, I'm confused and perhaps concerned that I missed something while scaling.
The length and heigh seem correct, but the width seems weird.
This website says the width is 7.7 inches: M6 Spartan Laser - Halopedia, the Halo encyclopedia
But my model only measures 4.75 inches.
It seems to be wider then 4.75 inches in-game, but that might be because of perspective.
There is no signs of distortion from only scaling 2 axis.
So, I'm a little confused.

 

[macktruck]

Unfortunately wasted allot of prints getting everything right. Top group are pieces that are desighned incorrectly or warped during printing.
The bottom group is hopefully keepers.
So, I'm thinking of getting a costume ready for the Rhode Island Comicon so I got about 8 weeks to get something made. I think my 3d printer is going to be really busy.

 

[mblackwell1002]

Okay, I'm confused and perhaps concerned that I missed something while scaling.
The length and heigh seem correct, but the width seems weird.
This website says the width is 7.7 inches: M6 Spartan Laser - Halopedia, the Halo encyclopedia
But my model only measures 4.75 inches.
It seems to be wider then 4.75 inches in-game, but that might be because of perspective.
There is no signs of distortion from only scaling 2 axis.
So, I'm a little confused.

Sooo...what you are using is the Halo 5 version. Overall, they are similar. However, the Halo 5 Splaser is a refined version with flatter sides and less weight.

You will also notice that the Halo 5 version does not have any sort of display. This is because of VISR-LINK technology.

It may look bigger in FPV, but it is significantly smaller.

You should be fine as long as you scaled properly.

 

[macktruck]

Okay, I'm somewhat satisfied with the detachable front grip. Although it is designed to be detachable, any paint will probably get ruined at the points of contact. I adjusted some of the angles to make them look better. The inlet on the front is 2mm deep so you can add a cloth material over it if you wish. This is made up of two pieces to get the best print result, the front half and the back half. The inlet overhang and bevels prevent printing from the bottom up.