a bit o help for ya

Status
Not open for further replies.

W1D0MAK3R

Member
every one who has made something out of pep and used ordinary paper knows how hard it can be to see their creation slouch and/or cave in on itself... good news..
lookie what i did
reinforcement for all...
helmetreinf.jpg

and heres the link.
for some reason it wont apply numbers to "all the faces" so just take which direction of bracing you need 'or both' and just exclude the helmet from the board...
please note 'this wont be easy'
just scale it like you normally would and go to work
p.s. this is the MK VI helmet with all the vents and such
linky
http://files.filefront.com/MK+VI+Reinforce...;/fileinfo.html
this really helps out if you plan to do some major fiberglassing or other work to the shell..
oh yeah, its in 3ds format if someone wants to mess with it..
 
This is very cool... the only problem with this is that it needs to be scaled PERFECT...
(why not just make it part of the file?)

And sorry to say this... but you totally wasted your time, we NEVER use normal paper, we use CARDSTOCK...
And flying squirrell's pep files already include support struts wich do their job well...

this is cool for those people who want each surface perfect and want to avoid bondo..

-Fin(n)ish
 
this only took like 10 minutes to make, but the newer mark VI helmet is included with the bracing in the file, so all you need to do is scale the helmet and the braces should follow accordingly. this could easily be used with cardstock as well, even if you use cardstock, the model will still wobble a bit, and theres still the chance the model will become deformed upon work, this just provides an internal skeleton to prevent that from happening.
 
Finnish_Spartan said:
[...]

And sorry to say this... but you totally wasted your time, we NEVER use normal paper, we use CARDSTOCK...
And flying squirrell's pep files already include support struts wich do their job well...

this is cool for those people who want each surface perfect and want to avoid bondo..

-Fin(n)ish

That's not entirely true, dude. I used regular printer paper and low-tack painter's tape, and look at how my Mk VI helmet turned out... and without internal bracing, lol.

Of course, I'm probably the only one here who's ever successfully managed that, and I certainly wouldn't recommend doing that to anyone :p

I think this is a good idea, Widow. I would imagine this will come in handy for some folks, either just as additional support for people's resining/fiberglassing or in the manner Finnish spoke of... :cool:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
SPARTAN II said:
That's not entirely true, dude. I used regular printer paper and low-tack painter's tape, and look at how my Mk VI helmet turned out... and without internal bracing, lol.

Of course, I'm probably the only one here who's ever successfully managed that, and I certainly wouldn't recommend doing that to anyone :p

I think this is a good idea, Widow. I would imagine this will come in handy for some folks, either just as additional support for people's resining/fiberglassing or in the manner Finnish spoke of... :cool:

This is mostly because your using plastick to strengthen it..

-Fin(n)ish
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yeah, but considering how I was applying smaller pieces of styrene to it a bit at a time, I'm surprised it didn't collapse in on itself or fall apart early on given the added weight of the styrene in certain areas when I first started layering it, lol.

Once I got the base layer of styrene all done up, it was sturdy enough I didn't have to worry about any warping or some such thing, but not before I had the entire base layer on it.

Anyway, not to go too off-topic here. This is Widow's thread, so we shouldn't deviate from that discussion too much. Sorry 'bout that, dude...:lol:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top