Crazy molding idea

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so i just tried this on a model car, it came out perfectly, i swear i even got the license plate holder, ive filled it with water and it is freezing now (i have no plasti-liquidy stuff :()
 
this seems like an equal amount of work and cost to doing it the standard way with silicone. plus the hot glue won't be rigid like resin or plastic. plus squeezing a hot glue trigger 80bigillion times to fill a mold would be torture. just my humble o.
 
dacacheman said:
this seems like an equal amount of work and cost to doing it the standard way with silicone. plus the hot glue won't be rigid like resin or plastic. plus squeezing a hot glue trigger 80bigillion times to fill a mold would be torture. just my humble o.
why is everyone so narrow minded pan camping+camping stove+hot glue sticks= lots of molten glue. you don't have to use a glue gun for hot glue you know.
 
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Honesty i was just thinkin about this to. Well for starters you dont have to pull the trigger just let a stick sit in the gun for about 20 seconds then just push the back it it will slide right on down nice and fast. The only problem i can think off is the fact of painting hot glue and also that hot glue keeps shape but isnt rigid.
 
**** needs to be rigid, i would maybe consider hot glue for certain things i would use latex for, but not really. but hey i am open minded, but it would be unlike me to be skeptical - looking forward to how it turns out - keep us posted!
 
dacacheman said:
this seems like an equal amount of work and cost to doing it the standard way with silicone. plus the hot glue won't be rigid like resin or plastic. plus squeezing a hot glue trigger 80bigillion times to fill a mold would be torture. just my humble o.
You dont use the glue gun, you melt it in a coffee tin over a portable stove and work in the garage, keeping it constantly heated so it doesnt cure on you before your done. I tried this with the toy car, it was a pain, but on larger scale like a helmet i'm going to use a stove to melt the glue.

Yes you might be able to cast with hot glue, but from where do you go from that I dont know, only thing I can think of is resin, but I'm thinking plaster to hot glue is the best way to go, the ammount of plaster needed to mold a helmet cost 15 dollars, the ammount of hot glue to cover the inside of the cast, 6 dollars.

Actually if you have a heat gun, just pour the hot glue into the mold, not all the way to the top, but fill like 1-2 inches then swish it around and make the glue cover every area, then use the heat gun to make sure it gets into every nook and cranny.
 
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What did you mold, and how, did you use a hot glue gun 500 times, or did you melt the glue in a can/pot?
 
I used a glue gun, pushing the trigger and stick at the same time (made it go fast). I molded one of those containers you get in toy dispensers.

I did it, but it was so hard... it took me a long time to pry apart the mold. Then I put Glad wrap in it and over that aluminum foil, then I put in more glue to mold. Unfortunately, not all of the foil came off of the molded object... :unsure:
 
Just wondering about a finish.
Because the glue in stick form is soft to the touch in that a finger nail will make an imprint, then im assuming the finished cast would keep this quality.
Was thinking that maybe a paint job would fix it , but im not sure.
I'm going to try this anyway :lol: if it doesnt work then shucks i've lost £20 max on what would otherwise be an expensive helmet.
Just waiting on gauntlet cast to dry then i can try it with what sticks ive still got lying around before i go and buy the rest
 
1 coat of resin over it will keep finger nails away, paint helps some too, Truck bed liner may also work.

Rid3r said:
I used a glue gun, pushing the trigger and stick at the same time (made it go fast). I molded one of those containers you get in toy dispensers.

I did it, but it was so hard... it took me a long time to pry apart the mold. Then I put Glad wrap in it and over that aluminum foil, then I put in more glue to mold. Unfortunately, not all of the foil came off of the molded object... :unsure:

1. Your molding plastic with hot plastic, which makes them slightly blend with each other
2. You need release agent to make it easy to release
3. foul and plastic wrap take away detail.
 
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ok if your making the mold and the cast from hot glue then youll need to paint the inside of the mold pretty thick with high gloss paint for the reales and insulatory properties. you dont want your mold to remelt lol.
 
im thinking it would have to be a big puddle of resin to generate enough heat. i was thinking you could use a mothermold of great stuff around the hot glue mold to keep it rigid while casting. although i think that hot glue would be too rigid when it came time to pull the cast, because it isnt as wiggly and stretchy as silicone.
 
After more testing, hot glue with hot glue isnt smart idea....

The only way this will work, if to plaster mold the helmet as a negitive cast, then making the final product hot glue, it will melt if you say...bake it or leave it on a stove, but who would do this to their helmet? it would also be water proof since it is plastic.
 
well i just used some left over plaster that wasnt the right type and it just obliterated, luckily gauntlets still fine so i'll try again with plaster of paris tomorrow, also selotape makes a good release agent that keeps all detail if carefully applied, dunno if itll help with glue on glue tho
also is there any other cheap moldmaking items that could be used with hot glue, because plaster is not forgiving when removing.
 
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