Darksaber Energy Sword

kablamme

New Member
I have this concept that I really want to bring to life for my custom ODST cosplay, only I am not sure how I should go about it. I was thinking about just getting the foam energy swords and repainting, but where is the fun in that! It's gotta light up! I am very new to the halo costuming community so I am not sure what people usually use for prop energy swords, or what is even possible. I think if there is a way to make it just glow around the edges that would be good enough for me. Not sure what that plastic material people use for lightsabers is called, I'll have to look into that too, especially those who make darksabers. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions, I am open to anything! Thank you <3
daarksaber.png
bokatanodst.png
 
Gorgeous mockup :D

I have made the circuits and lighting effects for a bunch of energy swords, feel free to ask me anything. To get the 3d look, the preferred blade material is PETG. It is a clear and durable, thermoplastic that can be vacuum molded. I have some info here on the lighting parts

Some other ideas:
* Use a flat sheet of plexiglass and edge light it.
* Draw a path, and affix EL wire along the surface
 
Gorgeous mockup :D

I have made the circuits and lighting effects for a bunch of energy swords, feel free to ask me anything. To get the 3d look, the preferred blade material is PETG. It is a clear and durable, thermoplastic that can be vacuum molded. I have some info here on the lighting parts

Some other ideas:
* Use a flat sheet of plexiglass and edge light it.
* Draw a path, and affix EL wire along the surface
This was super helpful thank you! The neopixel energy sword is super neat but I know nothing about programming and electronics. I would love to learn how to though! I just don't know where to start and if this is even a doable/semi affordable project for someone just starting. I would hate to buy all the parts and be unable to make it. I do wonder if I would be able to transfer a darksaber neopixel font to the energy sword and have the sounds and lights set up for that. Plus, I checked Sean Bradley's shop and I do not think he sells the base mold anymore and I don't have the materials to make something vacc formed. I forgot to note that I plan to take this to conventions, I've seen some entirely 3D printed energy swords on Etsy, I do not know how durable that would be but the reviews said it would be heavy. What do you think my best option would be?
 
You can go the 3d printing route, but I would only recommend that for display pieces. Cosplay needs enough durability to be bumped, knocked, dropped... because all three will happen at conventions. Probably ok for the hilt, bad for the blade.

My recommendation would be to use lexan material (more durable than plexiglass, sold at home depot) and a hacksaw. A little wet sanding and painting, and you will have a nice darksaber.

As for the electronics, is pretty easy. Just read these two tutorials, and if you get into trouble ask chatgpt to explain or fix your bugs.

* Adafruit Arduino IDE Setup
* Adafruit NeoPixel Überguide
* Code writing example for a neopixel is around the 2min mark.


I did it in chatgpt quick for you:
--------------------------
please write an arduino code for a 20 light string of neopixels. I want it to be cool white and fade in out, like it's breathing / alive

You can use the Adafruit NeoPixel library to control the NeoPixel light string. First, you need to install the Adafruit NeoPixel library from the Arduino Library Manager. Open the Arduino IDE, go to Sketch > Include Library > Manage Libraries, and search for "Adafruit NeoPixel." Install the latest version.

Here's an example Arduino sketch that creates a "breathing" effect for a 20-light string of NeoPixels:
C-like:
#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>

#define NEOPIXEL_PIN    6      // The pin connected to the NeoPixels
#define NUM_PIXELS      20      // Number of NeoPixels in the string
#define BRIGHTNESS      255     // Maximum brightness (0-255)

Adafruit_NeoPixel pixels(NUM_PIXELS, NEOPIXEL_PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

void setup() {
  pixels.begin();
  pixels.setBrightness(BRIGHTNESS);
  pixels.show(); // Initialize all pixels to 'off'
}

void loop() {
  // Fade in
  for (int i = 0; i < 255; i++) {
    setAllPixelsColor(i, i, i);
    delay(10);
  }

  // Fade out
  for (int i = 255; i >= 0; i--) {
    setAllPixelsColor(i, i, i);
    delay(10);
  }
}

void setAllPixelsColor(uint8_t r, uint8_t g, uint8_t b) {
  for (int i = 0; i < NUM_PIXELS; i++) {
    pixels.setPixelColor(i, r, g, b);
  }
  pixels.show();
}
This code creates a "breathing" effect by gradually increasing and decreasing the brightness of all NeoPixels in the string. The setAllPixelsColor() function sets the color for all pixels, and the loop() function handles the fade-in and fade-out animation.

You can adjust the NEOPIXEL_PIN constant to the pin number you've connected the NeoPixels to on your Arduino board. The NUM_PIXELS constant should be set to the number of NeoPixels in your string (20 in your case). The BRIGHTNESS constant sets the maximum brightness of the NeoPixels (0-255).
can you make the fading pattern more random? add a little spark effect every now and then
Sure! Here's an updated version of the Arduino sketch that adds random fading and occasional spark effects to the NeoPixel light string:
C-like:
#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>

#define NEOPIXEL_PIN    6      // The pin connected to the NeoPixels
#define NUM_PIXELS      20      // Number of NeoPixels in the string
#define BRIGHTNESS      255     // Maximum brightness (0-255)

Adafruit_NeoPixel pixels(NUM_PIXELS, NEOPIXEL_PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

void setup() {
  randomSeed(analogRead(0)); // Seed the random number generator
  pixels.begin();
  pixels.setBrightness(BRIGHTNESS);
  pixels.show(); // Initialize all pixels to 'off'
}

void loop() {
  // Random fade in and fade out
  int fadeDirection = random(2) == 0 ? -1 : 1;
  int brightness = random(30, 200);
 
  for (int i = (fadeDirection == 1 ? 0 : 255); i >= 0 && i <= 255; i += fadeDirection) {
    setAllPixelsColor(i, i, i);
    delay(random(5, 20));

    // Occasionally add a spark
    if (random(100) < 3) {
      int sparkPixel = random(NUM_PIXELS);
      pixels.setPixelColor(sparkPixel, 255, 255, 255);
      pixels.show();
      delay(random(20, 100));
      pixels.setPixelColor(sparkPixel, i, i, i);
      pixels.show();
    }
  }
}

void setAllPixelsColor(uint8_t r, uint8_t g, uint8_t b) {
  for (int i = 0; i < NUM_PIXELS; i++) {
    pixels.setPixelColor(i, r, g, b);
  }
  pixels.show();
}

This version of the code adds more randomness to the fading pattern by selecting random fade-in or fade-out directions and random brightness levels. It also introduces occasional spark effects by briefly setting a random pixel to full brightness during the fade animation.

You can adjust the frequency and duration of the spark effects by modifying the values in the if (random(100) < 3) and delay(random(20, 100)) lines.
 
Last edited:
This was super helpful, thank you so much for your help! I'll make sure to keep you updated when I start the project! I reached out to Sean Bradley and he isn't able to make a energy sword at the moment, so I am going to do the lexan material. I am able to 3D print the handle and stick all the electronics inside. I really appreciate you!
 
I have this concept that I really want to bring to life for my custom ODST cosplay, only I am not sure how I should go about it. I was thinking about just getting the foam energy swords and repainting, but where is the fun in that! It's gotta light up! I am very new to the halo costuming community so I am not sure what people usually use for prop energy swords, or what is even possible. I think if there is a way to make it just glow around the edges that would be good enough for me. Not sure what that plastic material people use for lightsabers is called, I'll have to look into that too, especially those who make darksabers. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions, I am open to anything! Thank you <3 View attachment 329604View attachment 329605
Concept looks so sick, I think printing in clear filament would suffice since the light on the inside would have a chance to peek out through the cracks of the black?
 
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