Doc's Molding Tips

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docbytes

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DoC's tips on molding

#1. Make sure to seal your object with a recommended finish compatible with you molding material.

Example: I use Krylon Triple-Thick Clear Glaze with my Rebound 25. (Using an etched primer helps the primer bond to the object and the clear coat)

#2. For open ended pieces like shins :D seal and smooth the lower end to make it easier to RotoCast.

Example:
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I put a smooth layer of fiberglass jelly over a cut piece of foam board, don't forget to sand it too!

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Notice: I sanded the center down curving the edges up to the sides, this makes a template of where to cutout your hole on the cast.

Now you will waste a little plastic on the part you have to cut, but it's alot less than what you would spill on the ground....... or on your garage floor! LOL (lay PLASTIC ANYWHERE YOU WORK!) :p

#3. When applying Rebound I have found that 3 to 4 layers of rebound 25 coated evenly will give you a 3/8 to 1/2 inch skin. I don't like waste so a scoop the rebound that drips to the table and re-apply it until it starts to set. ;)

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#4. After this "skin" is a hair thicker than tacky I add a thick layer of Rebound with a tea spoon of Thi-Vex II to keep it from running.

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Make sure you smooth the surface as best you can filling in holes and curves. The smoother the thi-vex layer the easier your mother mold will be to make and remove.
Updates to come!

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Hope this helps people. Sorry, but the only thing I will not be posting here for now is how I am making the mother mold for the shin. I will however post pics and processes in making the mother mold on my helmet. :cool:
 
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