Foam build, but with plastic sheets

Pescadero

New Member
And the gauntlets... Hope I can finish them today but I have not much time.

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After that only thigh armor and 1 knee are left.... Oh and Helmet. I will do helmet with Eva first. Perhaps later I will redo it with glasfibre.
 

TurboCharizard

Division PR, RMO and BCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
A friend said I have to dry every layer longer. I will try this...
Your friend may be super smart, I don't know him/her but I'd put more value into the instructions on the side of the can written by the people that mixed up the paint and chemical concoction. A lot of sprays have a listed temperature and humidity range for application as well as layer and recoat times which all works together to help the paint properly cure and bond to the material you're applying it to. Like Dirtdives said, rough up the surface with a Scotchbrite pad or very fine sandpaper to help with base coat adhesion and then thin coats to build up the colour.

Many sprays for plastics like Krylon are formulated to work best between 15°C and 30°C with low to moderate humidity below 30% and working outside these temperatures will change cure times. Hotter and dryer in summer? Quicker set up! Colder and damp in the winter, lol what is curing?

Between coat times are also important because it's the difference between the paint being a tacky surface and a fully hardened surface shell. If you're hitting the times right for applications of the same colour you'll get one thicker and consistent layer of colour, if you wait too long you run the risk of getting many thin layers that can chip and flake off easily. Most paints for plastics are 10 to 15 minutes between layers but always double check, one of the paints I was using this week was only one minute suggested.

Once you work with paints and get used to your environment you can start figuring out your fudge factor for adjusting times, I live in what used to be labelled as "temperate rainforest" so humidity is a big factor and if I want to keep parts having smooth paint coats I need to work inside and keep air moving with fans so that bubbles don't appear and create an orange peel surface. Other times like this last week with an average afternoon temperature of 32°C and evenings hovering around 20°C has meant that between coat times have been shortened by five minutes or so because it's "the Canadians are melting" hot out.

PAINT
SCIENCE
PAINT
 

Pescadero

New Member
Your friend may be super smart, I don't know him/her but I'd put more value into the instructions on the side of the can written by the people that mixed up the paint and chemical concoction. A lot of sprays have a listed temperature and humidity range for application as well as layer and recoat times which all works together to help the paint properly cure and bond to the material you're applying it to. Like Dirtdives said, rough up the surface with a Scotchbrite pad or very fine sandpaper to help with base coat adhesion and then thin coats to build up the colour.

Many sprays for plastics like Krylon are formulated to work best between 15°C and 30°C with low to moderate humidity below 30% and working outside these temperatures will change cure times. Hotter and dryer in summer? Quicker set up! Colder and damp in the winter, lol what is curing?

Between coat times are also important because it's the difference between the paint being a tacky surface and a fully hardened surface shell. If you're hitting the times right for applications of the same colour you'll get one thicker and consistent layer of colour, if you wait too long you run the risk of getting many thin layers that can chip and flake off easily. Most paints for plastics are 10 to 15 minutes between layers but always double check, one of the paints I was using this week was only one minute suggested.

Once you work with paints and get used to your environment you can start figuring out your fudge factor for adjusting times, I live in what used to be labelled as "temperate rainforest" so humidity is a big factor and if I want to keep parts having smooth paint coats I need to work inside and keep air moving with fans so that bubbles don't appear and create an orange peel surface. Other times like this last week with an average afternoon temperature of 32°C and evenings hovering around 20°C has meant that between coat times have been shortened by five minutes or so because it's "the Canadians are melting" hot out.

PAINT
SCIENCE
PAINT

Really really interesting point! I think I do it that way. It saves time. 12 hours between every layer is a long time (thats what my friend said) and I don't have enough space to paint all parts together.
 

Pescadero

New Member
I did right tigh armor with a holster. I will secure the Magnum with a strap and velcro.

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And I finished the second knee . Thats only chest plate and Helmet left.
But now short break because I'm gonna rock at open air festival next days :D
I'll continue next week.
Hope I can finish this thing till 04. August. I want to wear that armor at this event soooo much:lol:
 

Pescadero

New Member
Let's put some paint on it...

After sanding and primer I spray a layer silver on it. And in some edges a little bit tooth paste to similuate battle damage later.

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After dry time I spray some layers anthrazite/ dark grey color on it. And some red markings...

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I used a rough sponge and smooth sand paper to remove tooth paste and colour on the edges and give it a more matt look.
After that some black wash.
I like how it came out. It has a light metallic shine.

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