s-meister said:
I've got a good question. Try to answer this without making yourself look like an idiot, okay. What the hell happened to my "Post questions here" thread??? This is a complete copy of that. All that hard work for nothing??? Seriously.
blakiki said:
So I hear bondo leave pinholes like mad
A) this true?
how do you fill those?
Ok, firstly OMG OMG OMG I didn't expect this post to fill up like this. I need to check more often now. Anyway...let me get down to business. s meister, I am sorry if you feel I have taken your topic idea. I just felt that it was time for one like this to be posted. And believe me I know hoe you feel, I have had two topics (dealing with rather specific stuff actually) copied word for word. But a mistake is a mistake.
blakiki, it can happen if you don't work with it right. The key to keeping Bondo from pinholing excessively is to "work" it properly.
Firstly, add less hardener to give you more time to maneuver it, and to compensate for thickness due to low temperature (IDK if that applies to you. In the low 40's down I notice a difference. It was a bitch).
Secondly, you want to reduce the amount of air you work into it. You can do that in two ways.
One, when you mix it, use something flat and wide, (around an inch or more) so that you can mix it quickly and efficiently, and slowly enough so you don't whip bubbles (which result in pinholes).
The other way is to mix it on a flat surface so the blob is thinner, and this will let the bubbles rise to the surface faster.
Now, when applying, try to use the tool that you spread and smooth with as little as possible once its touched the surface of the armor. Use the tool to scrape it off the mixing area and try to pour/glop it onto the armor, that way you don't spread it onto air and get bubbles.
Now for spreading: I highly recommend Bondo's mixing tools they make. They are the pink you want your Bondo to mix into, so they're a great reference. Also they are flexible so you can bend them once the Bondo hardens and the Bondo cracks right off. And come in different widths.)
I try to spread as little as possible, then with my cleanest ans widest Bondo spreader (read: no gunk on edge), I pass over it once to smooth the surface. The more you smooth, the tackier it gets and the more air you out under the surface.
Before it gets very rubbery, but is hard enough to push with your finger, I use a rough (30-60) sandpaper that is made for paint, to smooth the Bondo. I use a paper made for paint because the slightly gummy Bondo will gum up other papers. The paper is white and green and made by 3M.
Then, once its at the consistency of rubber, like a tire, I use a widely serrated steak knife to shave off the high areas and ridges. if you wait till its hard, its harder to do and you actually risk sawing grooves in it if the blade catches.
Once it hard but not rock, I use 80 grit to get rid of gouges ect.
If you still have pinholes, use a finger and fill them with Bondo...but. Make sure you leave a tiny mound over the pinhole and you don't sand it down till its hard, that way you don't get a depression.
You can also use a spot putty or a spackling paste (they come in small jars) for the small stuff, but keep in mind these don't dry as hard as Bondo. Some you can even gouge with a nail so beware it you use that stuff for large areas, b/c after painting a flex could make it crack and then crack/flake the paint.
Glaze is another alternative to Bondo if you want less pinholes, but you should only use it if you helmet is of a perfect shape, as it not great for sculpting. If your are interested in tips...post
Btw, the serrated knife trick is my uber-secret...don't tell. Makes Bondo as esay as...cutting steak!
Sry for the absence...post on.
