Halo 3 - Custom High Detail Models

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hate to break it to you buddy, but you set the paper to A2, no wonder it only fit on two pages. It takes 4-5 pages to print.

I unfolded it to 4 pages, stuffing everything as close as possible without over lapping.
 
AoBfrost said:
hate to break it to you buddy, but you set the paper to A2, no wonder it only fit on two pages. It takes 4-5 pages to print.

I unfolded it to 4 pages, stuffing everything as close as possible without over lapping.
oh geeze lol, thanks for tellin me, now i gotta go back and rework it! :lol:
 
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out of curiosity, who does this fit in the standard size?

im not sure how to measure, or rather WHAT to measure to determine my size. im a 38 in suit jacket size. and 5'7

anyone else here close to my size?
 
Not sure how big your arms are, but you may want to go with 28cm tall or 29cm tall. I tried 26 for my arms and they came out slightly too small, I'm 5'8''.

Also, chest permutations are in the new chest file, you must select which piece you want to use in the 3d object viewer.
 
my arms arent very big. standard issue!

:)

the chest file i have/printed yesterday was 1 file. i coudl see everything. ended up being 40 pages letter.
 
I was stupid and scaled my arm for 26.4cm high, came out child sized. It would fit someone 5 feet to 5'4'' just fine though. I'm thinking of selling it since I have no use for it, or trade for hand plates.

Here it is:

http://www.4shared.com/file/60816311/f97c0...m_left_pdo.html


Fixed, scaled to 30cm high, should fit most people from 5'6''-6' depending on arm size. If taller or you have bigger arms, you'll need to scale up. Only 5 pages at current scale.
 
since im not at home right now.

what was the standard set size the torso comes set to? i thought ti was like 36cm or something....

anyone confirm the default scale?
 
ok, so what is this 28 the other poster is talking about?

ive printed it already and started assembling the neck. seem small but it def fits.

im thinking this armor needs to be done in two sections once built, so you can get your head in it, UNLESS///

just thought of this..

perhaps the neck can be modular. so you put the torso on, and the necck is in two peices,that you attach via rare earth magnets???

the clones do it on the face...so....
 
hey dudes, thanks for all the unfolds n stuff. :) im realy sorry i havnt been organising stuff. my intertubes are down n any time im on im ether in a friends house or in town. i should be able to sort it all out soon. also i think some of the links that are lower down in the first post are broken so ill have to look into them too. :(
 
Flying Squirrel,

I'm really new here so bear with me... :D

I downloaded and have printed your pepakura file for the HD-MKV-I helmet on 110lb cardstock.

I'm about to start assembling this weekend (Football game today so I'll be too tired.)
And once its done I'm going to start to resin the whole helm only doing about 25% every 2 days to prevent warping.
Now, I'm wondering how do I put a lens in at the end of all my steps? (I.E. Resin about 2 layers on the outside, 1 on the inside, fiberglass the inside, sanding, bondo-ing, sanding some more.)

Like, should I have used Docs version instead if I wanted to put a lens in?

Also, is it overkill to resin the outside twice and then the inside once, and then fiberglassing the inside? Sanding, and then bondo-ing and sanding again?

I don't want to "overkill" by any means haha!

Please help!
Thanks!
 
thats not overkill. you can also glass first then apply resin. if i were you i would go ahead and resin it all in one sitting. for the visor, just use a motorcycle visor. the paper visor is in his models only as a support to prevent warpage
 
not overkill at all. thats how i do my pep items. actually i go a bit of a different route with mine. here my usual process

1. Resin outside and inside (resion outside, let cure, resin inside, let cure.
2. some fiberglass MAT on the inside, i do 2 or 3 layers keeping everything as smooth as possible. also i dont cut my fiberglass mat, only fiberglass cloth. the mat i tear with my hands, so the rough edges overlap and sort of "interlock" making a very good strong first layer
3. i put a few extra peices of mat in any recessed areas to try to get everything inside as smooth as possible, then once cure i grind off anything poking up, "spikes" if you will.
4. 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass CLOTH. i try to use one peice to cover as much of the part as possible, not a ton of smaller pieces.
5.OPTIONAL- if i feel the part is still too flimsy i use a thin layer of BONDO brand fiber-reinforced filler, a 1/8 to 1/4" layer. its dark green, the cans are usually blue. there are usually 2 types. both are regular bondo with strands of fiberglass in it except one has long cloth-like strands, and the other has shredded mat mixed in it. i use the shredded mat kind.
6. final step is an EXTREMELY thin layer of BONDO brand lightweight filler GOLD series i belive its called. this filler is a brownish yellow.

the i use a sanding sponge with a slightly more abrasive sandpaper folded over it and attack the mountain folds of the model. dont go crazy, your just trying to round off the sharp folds. then dremel in any deeper detail you may need and cut out all areas you want open, visor, holes on cheeks for tubes, venting etc. Then a thin layer of bondo and the same with the sanding sponge until you get it all rounded off. then you can carve in any detail with a hobby file. i like to draw it on with a fine tip, scribe guide lines(with a dental pick or similar instrument) over the drawing and then use the file to carve them to desired depth.

WARNING-Step 5 can make your part incredibly heavy if your not careful, pay attention to how thick your layer is and how much filler your using. my helmet master im working on weighs 20 lbs easy and its not done yet, in fact, thinking about it now, i would recommend this method strongly to anyone wanting to build a master for a mold.

However my method makes your part incredibly strong and resilient to damage. and also gives your part a really nice smooth inside, you can then cover with cloth or vinyl or some type of liner and make it look really professional.


AOBFrost- i like your unfold, but how do i get the right one? i remeber there being a way to mirror the peices in pepakura designer, but i dont know how, and i only have the free version. i recently madethe HD right gauntlet, but its a bit too big at 33cm and i dont really want to make 2 more HD gaunts.
 
MandoMan531 said:
AOBFrost- i like your unfold, but how do i get the right one? i remeber there being a way to mirror the peices in pepakura designer, but i dont know how, and i only have the free version. i recently madethe HD right gauntlet, but its a bit too big at 33cm and i dont really want to make 2 more HD gaunts.

I think what you're looking for is the "Flip Development" button or in the 2dPatternWindow dropdown list select "Flip Pattern". I think that's it.
 
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hey guys im new to this site and new to armor making, this is my first project so i hope this looks good here is what i have done so far.

jaw peice



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after im done with the helmet im gona start the chest peice, if any of you guys have a preffered way of scaling please let me know, i'm 6'6 and 200 lbs
 
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