just some questions in general

death

Member
sorry if these questions have been answered before, but i searched for a bit and didn't find what i needed.

when i finish folding, fiberglassing the inside, and resining the outside, do i sand all the way through to the fiberglass? or just sand the sharp folds off the top?

regarding the visor, what have people had the best results with? i dont want to spend $80 on 2 motorcycle visors. is there a cheaper way that looks just about as good?

what is a glaze coat? and why do you sand it after you apply it? or do i have it wrong

i guess pretty much what im asking is a few basic steps to follow after i finish folding.

i have told my friends about this project of mine, as im hoping to have the whole set of armor done by next Halloween so i can use it. no one believes i will follow through with it. HAHA think again! i am absolutely determined.


finally, i am using the mark VI helmet that slyfo made here: http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopi...+pepakura+files

what armor would go good with the helmet?
 

zeke6785

Jr Member
im also embarking on my first ever pep journey if you will call it that lol i want to have mine done by the time Halo Wars comes out so i can wear it to go buy my copy i went to my local motorcycle shop and since im a regular down there i got to buy a single visor for only $25 and id try ebay theres always deals on stuff there
 

cheech92007

Jr Member
ok heres how i did mine,

Step one: Assemble helm (obviously)

Step two: apply two coats of resin on outside (for best results wait 3-5 hours beforew adding second layer)

Step three: fiberglass inside. (cut into small squares, about 2 inches wide and 3-4 inches long)




sorry but thats all i got right now. cant finish yet b/c of job.

ill keep you posted when i do more


HOPE THIS HELPS
 

death

Member
it really does, thanks. but yeah, if you could add later that would be MUCH appreciated. also, do you use fiberglass mat or cloth?
 

tsau mia

Member
Okay, heres the thing.

You can use both fiberglass mat and fiberglass cloth. I just did my fiberglassing today, outside, in the rain, in about 32+ degrees.

I used fiberglass mat. It stuck to the brushes if you didn't put enough on. So to solve that problem, I made a batch about twice the size of normal, and just poured about a quarter of it inside the dome of the helmet. I used a paintbrush to spread it about, and what do you know, the yucky fibers stopped sticking.

The trick is to glue down your fiberglass first, then wait for it to dry at least a little bit, and then resin. That way your fiberglass has something other than your paintbrush to cling to.

So:

Step 1: Pour A LOT of glue into your helmet, and spread it around with a paintbrush. I used the paintbrush that was all hard and nasty from resining the outside. Make sure you have a nice looking layer. Wood glue, elmers glue... whatever. It just holds it in place and makes the fiberglass stick.

Step 2: Put gloves on, and eye protection. This IS important. You do not want little slivers of fiberglass bothering you for the next three days. That and it's a pain trying to get everything off your hands. (Glue, fiberglass, bondo)

Step 3: Carefully put the fiberglass into place, using the bristles of a non-glue brush to press it into the corners (new one works). This is where the glue comes in real handy. Those corners. Make sure you cover all of the inside of the helmet.

Step 4: Make a 8-10 ounce batch of resin. If it's cold outside, use about 2-3 drops more than the can says per ounce. Don't forget to put on your respirator.

Step 5: Pour a quarter of it into the dome. Tilt the helmet to make it run as far as possible, until it seems pretty covered. Spread with the new paintbrush you had out earlier until some fibers begin to stick. Make sure it doesn't really drip too much.

Step 6: Repeat step 5 with one side of the helmet, then the other, and finally the back. If you need more resin, don't be cheap and try to spread it thin. Just use it. Your helmet will be stronger.

Step 7: Sit outside for a half an hour to forty five minutes with a hair dryer pointed at the inside. You can also set it up so that the hair dryer just blows in constant air. Keep it on hot, cause it's cold outside. By the time 30 minutes has gone by, you should be able to touch it and it be dry to the touch.

Step 8: Let it sit (with or without the hair dryer) and clean up. Put in a waterproof space with ventilation, or away from people. Sheds, garages, attics, closets in an unused part of the house, a bathroom with a fan, etc.

Enjoy!

PS I used fiberglass mat and wood glue. I've heard the cloth doesn't stick, but it soaks up more resin.
 

death

Member
ok cool. what you said about doing one side, then the other, then the back, did you mean still on the inside?
 

tsau mia

Member
yes. everything is done on the inside, but make sure to resin the outside and let it cure before starting the inside. Otherwise the mass amounts of resin will make it collapse, because after you're done, the helmet becomes three times as heavy.
 

death

Member
ok, couple more questions. what is the best result people have had with visors? i want to try to avoid paying $50-$60 on a motorcycle visor. also, what is a glaze coat and when do you sand the outside? do you sand right through to the fiberglass? lastly, whats bondo and whats it used for?
 
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