Props Making the Hyabusa katana

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MysticLegend

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So my awesome friend is going to let me make a mold of his $300 Japanese katana. Problem is, I don't know how to make a two piece mold of something that thin and long. Anyone have any ideas? If it helps clarify things, we've removed the tsuka and tsuba already....we're molding each piece individually, starting with the blade+full tang.

Making a con-legal blade will be so cool! :D
 

Not exactly the same... but very close.. .only difference is relative length of the blade.
 
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Spase said:
Not exactly the same... but very close.. .only difference is relative length of the blade.

Ah man, I'd totally forgotten that video! I'll probably be using the techniques soon, too. Though... lots of silicone wasted, don't you think?
 
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Honestly, you can get cheap knockoffs that would be far more stable and real looking then a plastic one made from a mold. The reason your friends katana is 300 dollars is likely not because of the look of it, so much as the balance and the quality of the blade, both will be lost if you simply mold it. Plus the materials for molding cost significantly more then a cheap stainless steal not neccesarily perfectly wieghted katana.

edit: for whatever reason spase's video is not loading so sorry if I said something unneccesary
 
@Volkov... Con safe.... A real blade would be required to be locked into its sheath if it were allowed in at all.. A replica, made of plastic would much more be likely to be let in as a prop and not a weapon. Varies from Con to Con.

@Vrogy... Not neccessarily a waste of Mold Rubber.... the molds with thin sections like the blade area need to be supported so that the mold does not collapse on it self, the thickness of the rubber wont allow it to do that. However I am sure there are other methods, this being just one of them.
 
Spase said:
Vrogy... Not neccessarily a waste of Mold Rubber.... the molds with thin sections like the blade area need to be supported so that the mold does not collapse on it self, the thickness of the rubber wont allow it to do that. However I am sure there are other methods, this being just one of them.

Yeah, I got the support issue, but couldn't it be coated in a solid layer maybe 1/4" thick or so, then use a layer with some type of filler, or microballoons? IIRC this stuff is definitely not cheap..

volkov said:
good point, what if it's dull though? (I havn't been to a con)
You can seriously mess someone up with a piece of blunt barstock. Weapons have mass, it's why they're dangerous. The slice that can sever limbs exists because there's the weight of steel behind that honed edge.
Heck, I think you could probably manage to kill someone with a resin copy, if you were determined enough.. I bet if cracked off the jagged end could handily penetrate between ribs and soft geeky skin into internal organs.
 
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Vrogy said:
Yeah, I got the support issue, but couldn't it be coated in a solid layer maybe 1/4" thick or so, then use a layer with some type of filler, or microballoons? IIRC this stuff is definitely not cheap..

I am sure it could be done that way... brush on a few layers for detail... then go back and build and extensive shell to support the mold rubber, or just poor some cheap plaster around the molded rubber detail layers. You'd want to do that in two parts or you'd most likely never get the mold into two parts without the use of a hammer. You could do it in two parts much the same way L.A. is doing there forarms too. If you were to do and entire Katana the way the video shows... I am sure it would be $$$

Many different ways of accomplishing this task still yet to be discussed.
 
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Vrogy said:
You can seriously mess someone up with a piece of blunt barstock. Weapons have mass, it's why they're dangerous. The slice that can sever limbs exists because there's the weight of steel behind that honed edge.

Oh I know what potential even a blunt weapon has, I own a few swords myself. The point is where is the line drawn? I could definately beat someone to death with a decent replica of an AR... Life isn't safe, people can kill if they are determined. I was more wondering where the line is drawn on whats allowed into cons. I figured maybe a sword that isn't in "killing condition" regardless of it's potential uses by a determined individual might be allowed in.
 
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Straying from the intended topic.

Original Topic was Mold Techniques, not Con rules... however, to answer your question, it Varies from Con to Con... best answer is to call the con you are wondering about, and ask them what their rules are regarding weapons/props.

Back to the original topic please.
 
Whoa, I come back from work and all of you replied! I love this site :D
Okie doke, yeah...con-legal is the key here, so stainless swords don't work (otherwise, my gf has about 8 I could use).

Spase: Love the video....forgot all about it. I think you found a winner there, so I'm gonna go share the idea with my buddy (since it's his sword, I like keeping them updated).

koobs: I'm making about 6-7 of these swords, and only one has to look accurate enough to consider molding/casting from the real one. $20 for these wooden sets?! PLUS a saya?! Oh man....I like this idea too, considering that the sword will only have to be ornamental and not really practical. (Less effort + less cost) = (awesome + more time to focus on the main costume)
 
I dont mean to sound rude but, a 300 dollar katana isnt worth the money to mould for a costume peice. It is probably an entry level sword for Iaido or Jiujutsu. Its not really very much for a sword. Real ones are worth an enormous amount more than that, there may still be a few floating around in a states... dont get me started on that, For a costume you can get one for 20
 
NZ-TK said:
I dont mean to sound rude but, a 300 dollar katana isnt worth the money to mould for a costume peice. It is probably an entry level sword for Iaido or Jiujutsu. Its not really very much for a sword. Real ones are worth an enormous amount more than that, there may still be a few floating around in a states... dont get me started on that, For a costume you can get one for 20, not worth the rubber at all.

When you break it down to the simple factors, a $300 sword will look almost as cool as a $3000 sword in basic shape and design. Also, since all the parts will be made of the same material, you're sacrificing the balancing capability anyway. As far as structural integrity is concerned, it's obviously not going to be carbon steel. So....okay?

All we're looking for are nice looking replicas that we can make ourselves. I don't see what your point is.... :cautious:
 
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Why not just ask someone to make a pep file of the Hayabusa sword? When you resin/fiberglass and all that, you should be able to make a pretty realistic looking prop!
 
All we're looking for are nice looking replicas that we can make ourselves. I don't see what your point is....

My point is this. For the time money and effort that would go into casting 5 or however many copies you want to make, you could go to one of those horrible little shops that sell cheap garbage from thailand and probably pick up 5 "samurai" swords for about $50. You probably couldn't make the mould for that.

In regards to this.. " :cautious: "

You stared a thread asking for people to give you advice. Watch your attitude
 
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NZ-TK said:
My point is this. For the time money and effort that would go into casting 5 or however many copies you want to make, you could go to one of those horrible little shops that sell cheap garbage from thailand and probably pick up 5 "samurai" swords for about $50. You probably couldn't make the mould for that.

In regards to this.. " :cautious: "

You stared a thread asking for people to give you advice. Watch your attitude

Actually, yes you can make a mold for just about $50, and since the supplier is on my usual trip to NYC, there's no extra costs for transportation or shipping.

You stared a thread asking for people to give you advice. Watch your attitude
o_O Advice, not snappy remarks. o_O
Just like some people put in thousands of dollars to craft their costumes, there are also people who don't mind tossing $50-100 into making a nice prop. "Cheap garbage" sounds like a waste of money to me, and not a worthwhile investment to add to a costume I'll be putting my time and effort into.
Plus, you hit it all off with bashing my buddy's sword and noticing yourself that it *can* be taken as a rude comment. I'm not here beating on you, but I was just confused where you were going with all that. I haven't done anything to you, so why're you trying to pick on me?
 
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Well I think even a dinky plastic army knife would be much cooler to have with some armor than just an assault rifle. Especially if you could learn some knife tricks, or do that thing where you stab between peoples' fingers (If you hit their finger you wont cut it! :lol: ).

Plus cheap-o deep-o swords from an ally way shop are heavier than plastic models. ;)
 
This is off topic but watching that video of making the knife was amazing.
I was watching with the sound off and after the fade I couldn't tell the difference between the two.
 
This image should help you in designing the mold for your sword
fangsmold.jpg

Its from filmswords.com
there is quite a bit of useful information on their site.
I'm sorry If you think my comment was in some way offensive. I used to study Katana and Naginata. 300 gets you a nicely weighted practice sword. They are usually of a simple clean design, with little embellishment. My instructors sword was something crazy like 20k and was a work of art.
Now back on topic, for about $25 you can buy a replica of Ryu Hayabusa's Dragon Sword from Ninja Gaiden, one could assume its the same sword as the one in halo, or at least very similar
5160AE15S2L._SS500_.jpg

you can buy one here
amazon

also, its never a good idea to back chat mods.
 
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