Mark V B EVA /3d print hybrid thing (Idk im not a expert)

[Soloakel]

NobleofDeath16 requested that I make this so I'm going to now.
So I am making a Mark V B armor pulled straight from Halo Reach. Most stuff will be foam BUT the Shoulder, helmet and weapons will be 3d printed here it is in Blender.
I'm really leaning in on green with black here, I think it looks sick. Thoughts anyone?

 

[Soloakel]

Right now I have a bunch of EVA foam sheets to get me started, but I might go out and buy some rolls.

 

[OFiveTwo]

NobleofDeath16 requested that I make this so I'm going to now.
So I am making a Mark V B armor pulled straight from Halo Reach. Most stuff will be foam BUT the Shoulder, helmet and weapons will be 3d printed here it is in Blender.
I'm really leaning in on green with black here, I think it looks sick. Thoughts anyone?

Looks sick! Very interested to see how the 3D printed shoulders turn out when mounted on foam biceps. Make sure they're not too heavy!

 

[Soloakel]

Looks sick! Very interested to see how the 3D printed shoulders turn out when mounted on foam biceps. Make sure they're not too heavy!

I'm thinking of making them Hollow on the inside in some way to reduce weight

 

[Chronomize]

Realistically, it's difficult to make a Spartan  not look sick lol
It looks great
Have you tried doing purple along with black as accents? Those colours go well together

 

[Wraith0912]

I'm thinking of making them Hollow on the inside in some way to reduce weight

I'd advise against this. 0% infill (the thing that determines how solid the inside of the print is) is almost certainly guaranteed to give you a brittle print that crumples under pressure without also making the walls immensely thick. You could probably get away with a lower infill, maybe around 8% or perhaps even lower with the right settings, but a completely hollow part like that will come undone very quickly. Percentage, pattern, and wall numbers are what I'd tinker around with here; a low-percentage infill with a sturdy enough pattern (gyroid is common for this) and maybe a heightened could yield a lighter, yet stronger print. Either way, your concept looks great and I wish you luck in putting everything together!

 

[Soloakel]

have a eva foam shipment coming in soon so that's that.

 

[Soloakel]

Long silence but Have news.


I got a shipment of EVA Foam sheets not rolls. I am currently taking inventory and other prep work rn.

 

[Soloakel]

Update, Currently prep is done we are now beginning the crafting phase, hopefully we get started on the Forearms today. Looking in to buying a Dremel or a 3d printer

 

[Soloakel]

Welp after a few failed attempts of foaming the forearms (No I'm not showing you pics they were atrocious) We backed up to a second plan, 3d print everything except the boots, but that involves a 3d printer (Currently looking into buying one) But good news I bought a Dremel today! A Stylo+ that I bought earlier but only now am opening it, is there any tips and tricks I should know about Dremel, experts?

 

[PlanetAlexander]

A Dremel, a great investment! If yours has varying speeds, start at a mid paced speed and get used to that before moving up. Higher speeds can pull in the direction of spin, so it's good to know how to control it before going full ham.

When sanding, more often then not you'll want to move the rotary tool in the direction of spin (the way it is pulling). Going against it can lead to lots of material being sanded out, and unevenly if you're not careful. Be gentle - never use force with a rotary tool. If you feel you need to, it actually means you need a lower grit bit, or higher speed.

And of course - PPE! Rotary tools shoot out lots of small particles, so make sure you wear eye and face protection, and an apron if you don't want to get too dirty.

 

[N8TEBB]

Welp after a few failed attempts of foaming the forearms (No I'm not showing you pics they were atrocious) We backed up to a second plan, 3d print everything except the boots, but that involves a 3d printer (Currently looking into buying one) But good news I bought a Dremel today! A Stylo+ that I bought earlier but only now am opening it, is there any tips and tricks I should know about Dremel, experts?

What are the issues you're having with the foam? I'd be happy to help you work through them! Foam can be tricky, especially when you're just beginning. This is what my first foam piece ever looked like:

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With a bit of practice and a few tips, you'll be able to make some really clean foam pieces before you know it!

​

 

[Soloakel]

What are the issues you're having with the foam? I'd be happy to help you work through them! Foam can be tricky, especially when you're just beginning. This is what my first foam piece ever looked like:

View attachment 339669
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With a bit of practice and a few tips, you'll be able to make some really clean foam pieces before you know it!

​

Well first of all I need to find a way to get the foam to stay together and look nice, because when I try to assemble it, it does not go well.

 

[N8TEBB]

I'll need to know a bit more info to help you:
1. What thickness of foam are you using?
2. What are you using to cut it? When was the last time you sharpened the blade or replaced the blade?
3. Explain to me exactly how you try and glue the pieces together. What kind of glue? How much do you use? How long do you hold it together to let it cure?

Any other details you can provide are helpful as well. It would also help me a lot if you could send a picture of the piece you're working on. I know you are not proud of it, but it will help me help you.

 

[Soloakel]

I'll need to know a bit more info to help you:
1. What thickness of foam are you using?
2. What are you using to cut it? When was the last time you sharpened the blade or replaced the blade?
3. Explain to me exactly how you try and glue the pieces together. What kind of glue? How much do you use? How long do you hold it together to let it cure?

Any other details you can provide are helpful as well. It would also help me a lot if you could send a picture of the piece you're working on. I know you are not proud of it, but it will help me help you.

I believe I am using 3mm thick foam, don't remember exactly, Using a Utility knife sharpened it a day before he first attempt, I have some Contact cement for gluing, I'll have to scrounge around for some pics it might take some time.

 

[N8TEBB]

Alrighty I can give you a few tips from the info you just gave me:

First of all, the foam you are using is very thin for making armour. Personally, I like to use 12mm (1/2 inch) foam floor mats when making armour. Other members would also suggest a similar size. 10mm and 8mm are also quite popular for making armour. You will find that thicker foam will hold its shape better than thin foam, and it gives you more surface area to glue pieces together. I think if you remade your piece with 12mm foam you'd be surprised what a world of difference it makes.

A utility knife is an excellent tool to use. And it's a good idea to sharpen if before using it. The more often you sharpen the blade the easier it will be to cut through the foam cleanly.

Contact cement is also a good choice for gluing. However, not all contact cement is made equally. LePage contact is about as sticky as cocacola. Do not use LePage contact cement. I find that the Barge brand does an excellent job of sticking foam together. If you can get your hands on Barge then it will certainly improve your experience.

 

[Soloakel]

Alrighty I can give you a few tips from the info you just gave me:

First of all, the foam you are using is very thin for making armour. Personally, I like to use 12mm (1/2 inch) foam floor mats when making armour. Other members would also suggest a similar size. 10mm and 8mm are also quite popular for making armour. You will find that thicker foam will hold its shape better than thin foam, and it gives you more surface area to glue pieces together. I think if you remade your piece with 12mm foam you'd be surprised what a world of difference it makes.

A utility knife is an excellent tool to use. And it's a good idea to sharpen if before using it. The more often you sharpen the blade the easier it will be to cut through the foam cleanly.

Contact cement is also a good choice for gluing. However, not all contact cement is made equally. LePage contact is about as sticky as cocacola. Do not use LePage contact cement. I find that the Barge brand does an excellent job of sticking foam together. If you can get your hands on Barge then it will certainly improve your experience.

I currently use DAP conact cement for ease of access and recommendations from a few of my more Craftier friends, and I will look into getting 12mm foam.

 

[Soloakel]

Yo people been a while but Now I come with a question.

Since I am looking into 3d printers I am most likely going to buy a Elegoo Neptune 3 Max because of so many recommendations by plenty of my friends, So I am now looking at filament, which one would you guys recommend me getting, I'm thinking of PLA+ but I want your guy's opinion.

 

[Chronomize]

Yo people been a while but Now I come with a question.

Since I am looking into 3d printers I am most likely going to buy a Elegoo Neptune 3 Max because of so many recommendations by plenty of my friends, So I am now looking at filament, which one would you guys recommend me getting, I'm thinking of PLA+ but I want your guy's opinion.

PETG is probably best. I don't have experience but I've heard that PLA+ still warps in hot cars, while PETG does not. My armour and all the props I've made were all in PETG with no issues so far

 

[Soloakel]

I need more advice,

So as of now the plan is to 3d print a majority if not all the suit. I need to know, should I splurge on getting armorsmith If i am going to use a 3d printer? I need to know, please tell me