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Mk VI EOD build - Extreme WIP

Discussion in 'Halo Pepakura Costumes' started by VerdantTrash, Jul 4, 2018.

  1. VerdantTrash

    VerdantTrash New Member

    So I've been wanting to make some halo amour for YEARS. I've only just now been able to bring myself to spend the next few months making pepakura. My initial idea was a CQB suit, however I had some other ideas.

    I thought I could make it modular. I could have the chestplate removable and make different helmets and shoulders.

    So after attempting to make the CQB helmet twice I decided I'd try a different helmet. So after a week of staring at photos of MK V permutations, I decided on EOD.

    So here begins the pepakura stage, as huge wads of templates and odd shapes come flying out of my printer in the form of card stock.

    nudwbSC.jpg
    dUTBpd7.jpg

    The helmet started good. No issues other than a minor lack of detail.
    So I move on to hardening! The big scary step that I've never done before.
    So I hardened a glove panel first to test.
    Oh no. It's a brick. Note to self, apply thin.

    So I move on to the helmet with the epoxy I have left.
    g9yiT82.png
    It turned out pretty good and I'm really impressed with the resin.
    Next I will use fibreglass!
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2018
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  2. VerdantTrash

    VerdantTrash New Member

    So I will try to squeeze in glassing my helmet today. I've also started building the armor, so currently I've got a partly hardened right thigh! It's weird how fun walking around with an overcomplicated tube on your leg can be!
     
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  3. Asgardianhammer

    Asgardianhammer Identity Officer Division Staff 405th Regiment Officer

    Get That EOD Done!!!!! Looking good. Thin coats of resin inside and out, and remember to let them cure before adding the next. too much saturation before the paper stiffens will cause your piece to warp. Once that is all set you can begin the process of adding fiberglass mat or cloth to your piece on the inside only and wet it out. After that is done take a rasp to the exterior to get rid of any sharp angles and take it down to the paper if you have too. When you get to Bondoing the exterior don't try to cover the whole piece. Do it in sections and use a rasp on the bondo to remove any high spots while its in the green stage. Then when it is cure you can begin sanding it. Hope this helps and I look forward to seeing more of your EOD build. Once complete head over to Facebook and join the Exploding Fist Detachment!
     
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  4. VerdantTrash

    VerdantTrash New Member

    Thanks! It's my 6th helmet in total and the only one I've used the proper stuff for. Its definitely worth just using the right stuff instead of pva or wood glue. So far, my biggest issue has been keeping the pieces the correct shape! The thigh I have done didnt come with any supports in the file so I'll have to go by eye. I've glassed about a 5th of the helm. I'm gonna need more resin! Sorry, wallet.
    Thanks for the tips! Im familiar with the process but have zero experience in it, so every little detail is useful.
     
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  5. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke RXO 405th Regiment Officer

    If you don't have printed supports I would recommend hot glue, popsicle sticks and binder clips. Warping is hard to undo.

    Looking good!
     
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  6. VerdantTrash

    VerdantTrash New Member

    Thanks Duke! I'm gonna get around to finishing the glassing of the helm soon hopefully, but I will need to get some body filler. Any brand will work, I suppose? I've got my eye on a 3 litre tub of easy sand body filler, so hopefully once I get that, it'll really kick off. I will say, I'm gonna need more resin. And more money!
     
  7. Satchmo III

    Satchmo III Well-Known Member

    The paper on your helmet looks like it's assembled pretty cleanly. Not to speak for PerniciousDuke but any body filler will do, if you can afford the slight premium for easy sand or gold body filler I'd go for it for when applying it to the surface of your piece. If you were going to use a bondo/resin slurry (often referred to as rondo) on the inside of the piece after the resin process and before the fiberglass process I'd use the cheaper stuff for the mixture.

    One thing you might want to consider for future paper builds in case you're unaware...in Pepakura Designer you can set an angle to hide mostly flat fold lines (found in the menu via [Settings] > [Other Settings...]). This can save you a bit of time during paper assembly (not having to fold so much) and can help approximate overall smoothness. I find 160 or 165 degrees works well but wouldn't decrease it any further.

    Attachment.png

    Good luck moving ahead!
     
  8. Asgardianhammer

    Asgardianhammer Identity Officer Division Staff 405th Regiment Officer

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