MKVI Master Chief WIP (Pic heavy)

Tegan

New Member
Over the last couple months I've been slowly working through the pep part of my chief build. I am currently sitting with the torso pep files complete and am starting to harden and bondo.

The first helmet I started was warped as you will be able to see below so i'm thinking of scraping it and restarting. it was kind of the test subject to see what processes of hardening I want to use and it was kind of a flop, but I learned a lot so it wasn't a complete waste of time. Any tips or help is greatly appreciated.

enjoy
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Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
Supports for while it's drying to prevent warping. But twice I have no advise for you. Your work looks great!
 

Tegan

New Member
I will definitely try supports when I redo the helmet. Probably should have known that beforehand, but you live and you learn i guess. Thanks for the support, cant wait to get back on it this weekend. (y)
 

Tegan

New Member
I'm definitely going to try that on take two. I've read about putting in support systems, but that picture helps a lot. Thanks,
 

Tegan

New Member
Since my last update I have completed one more part of the back assembly for paint (Pic 1). I have a feeling I might come back late and do some touch ups in the crevice's on the bottom front .

I have also been experimenting with rondo mixtures to cover more complicated parts like the two torso attachments that go from the bottom of the chest plate and stretch around back. (Pic 2 and 3)
I tried a 50/50 mixture of rondo before, but felt like it was so thick. It was filling cavities instead of lining them. This time around, I tried to estimate a 70/30 resin to bondo mixture. So far I am happier with the results, but have not began sanding yet so I guess we'll see how that goes this week.

Lastly, I got to smoothing and rondoing (is that even a word?) the butt plate/lower back plate and the torso attachments going from the top of the chest piece over the shoulders to the back. (Pic 4-6)
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in the final picture is all the pieces set out to dry. I wasn't expecting to get this much done today, but mother nature threw in a random 55* day out of nowhere so I'll take it.

Last thing I promise, any tips and tricks regarding anything ill come up against is greatly appreciated. Or if I'm doing something that could be done differently to make it easier please say so.

yours truly, Tegan
 
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Tegan

New Member
Yeah, I get so excited working on it I kinda lose track of time and just like that the whole day went by. I'm working on slowing down to alleviate the amount of sanding later.

I'm also having a strange issue with bondo glazing putty (the kind that comes in the squeeze tube) shrinking when drying and leaving cracks. any idea why?
 

Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
Yeah, I get so excited working on it I kinda lose track of time and just like that the whole day went by.
(to the time of 'one week' by BNL) Yup, see: there goes the afternoon.
Pepakura surely will consume you!
I'm also having a strange issue with bondo glazing putty (the kind that comes in the squeeze tube) shrinking when drying and leaving cracks. any idea why?
Try using smaller amounts of bondo as a whole. Instead of doing the whole top of the helmet, try doing it in sections. Use a tiny bit less of the amount of hardener you put in. Once the bondo has started to set a little bit, you're done. Let it set completely and sand it smooth later. If it starts hardening and you keep working it, you'll get cracks.

Pics?
 

Tegan

New Member
Sorry for the late response but here are the pictures.

It's currently below freezing outside, but I'm working in a room that can only get as warm as 50ish with the heater cranked full blast. Once the odors from the Bondo/spray paint go away the pieces come into the kitchen to cure overnight.

I'm wondering if spray painting below freezing outside is causing some of the issue.
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Sometimes it's just the paint cracking other times it's the Bondo cracking.
 

Badkitty

Member
Well I did my build in temps between 70 and 115. One thing I might add it don't bondo until you have at least 2 or 3 coats of resin over the parts. If the temps are too cold the resin will take a very long time to cure, I'd say if they are in the 50-60 range let them sit for 3-4 days before you put another coat or any bondo one them. As you can see the bondo was peeling and fracturing away from the pieces in the that one pic, it looks like the resin was still 'off gassing' and the curing wasn't done yet.

Good luck it looks great!
 

Badkitty

Member
Oh before I forget, use high build primer over the bondo after you sand to get that even paint look!!
It saved me a ton of time!
 

Tegan

New Member
It has been a bit of a struggle to get any work done since it was 1* outside last night with wind-chill of -17. I think I'm just gonna wait till the weather turns. I really don't feel like fighting it.

And whoever made high build primer deserves a nobel Peace prize. That stuff is amazing.

But in the meantime I got started on my second helmet since the first was an abomination. But now this one may be a tad small so you know...
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TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Sorry for the late response but here are the pictures.

It's currently below freezing outside, but I'm working in a room that can only get as warm as 50ish with the heater cranked full blast. Once the odors from the Bondo/spray paint go away the pieces come into the kitchen to cure overnight.

I'm wondering if spray painting below freezing outside is causing some of the issue.View attachment 264678 View attachment 264679 View attachment 264680
Sometimes it's just the paint cracking other times it's the Bondo cracking.
If an actual pep-master could chime in it'd be probably more helpful but when using the Bondo Glazing Putty on 3D prints I've experienced the same flaking as well. If you check into the docs for the "Bondo 4 Step Repair System" the spot putty is the final step after sanding because it's meant for surface imperfections and scratch filling, it's not really meant to hold up as a layer or be much thicker in gaps than a millimeter.

If you're looking to build up volume or have a thicker layer of Bondo, go with the "Step 3" Body Filler which is the two part resin and hardener. If it's the body filler that's cracking it may be flexing of the helmet overall and time to add some supporting structure to remove chance of stress fractures.
 

Tegan

New Member
I think that is my issue. That being that I'm building up layers in the parts that are fracturing.
That makes a lot of sense now that I'm thinking about it. Whoops...
 

Ichan

New Member
Sorry for the late response but here are the pictures.

It's currently below freezing outside, but I'm working in a room that can only get as warm as 50ish with the heater cranked full blast. Once the odors from the Bondo/spray paint go away the pieces come into the kitchen to cure overnight.

I'm wondering if spray painting below freezing outside is causing some of the issue.View attachment 264678 View attachment 264679 View attachment 264680
Sometimes it's just the paint cracking other times it's the Bondo cracking.
So thats why you asked, which filler I am using. For ecaxtly the reason TorboCharizard described above, we only use filler for car repair work. That stuff didn't crack anywhere up until now, it's easy to sand even by hand. It's 2 component stuff from 'Nigrin' but I don't know, if you have that stuff in America!

From one of your pictures i take that you are also using fiberglass and epoxy? It looks like your epoxy is really fluid, or am I mistaken? If so, I could probably offer some advice as well, but i don't want to stick my nose too far into your business :D:D

Anyway best of luck, and I hope your problem is solved by this :)
 

Tegan

New Member
yeah, I did try the fiberglass and epoxy route... long story short it was a complete mess, didn't add enough hardener then too much. You know, the usual issues... I mostly fixed them now, but some small areas pop up here and there.

In the states we have bondo as opposed to Nigrin(I think that's the right spelling). It looks to be a very similar product.
 

Tegan

New Member
If an actual pep-master could chime in it'd be probably more helpful but when using the Bondo Glazing Putty on 3D prints I've experienced the same flaking as well. If you check into the docs for the "Bondo 4 Step Repair System" the spot putty is the final step after sanding because it's meant for surface imperfections and scratch filling, it's not really meant to hold up as a layer or be much thicker in gaps than a millimeter.

If you're looking to build up volume or have a thicker layer of Bondo, go with the "Step 3" Body Filler which is the two part resin and hardener. If it's the body filler that's cracking it may be flexing of the helmet overall and time to add some supporting structure to remove chance of stress fractures.
I used step 4 to fill in "valleys" so to speak that were too big. so my issue is just what you described. looks like im gonna be doing a lot of scratching out and refilling... oh well,
 
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