Hey ladies and gents, this topic will document my own building of a pepakura Mjolnir armour suit with step-by-step instructions. The board already has all the information one needs to build it really, but all the information's scattered so I hope by making this thread I could compile all the information needed to make a suit. Do note that I am definitely not an authority on building these doohickeys. In fact, I'm a newbie. That said, I would really appreciate any help with tips/instructions on this thing. Just post and I'll edit info onto this top post. If you have any questions, especially if caused by this guide, feel free to ask it in this thread.
Preparation
I know you're probably roaring to get going but if prep time helps Batman (I wonder if anybody will get this joke) it will help you, I guarantee it. Here's the materials you'll need:
Essentials<ul>[*]Pepakura Designer
<blockquote>See Frizzlefry's topic "Tutorial: How to use Pepakura to make your Mjolnir Armor"
This is the program used to view and edit .pdo files.</blockquote>[*].pdo files (WARNING: KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN)
<blockquote>See Frizzlefry's topic "Tutorial: How to use Pepakura to make your Mjolnir Armor"
I believe the files provided in that topic are for MkV and MkVI is in the works by Slyfo.</blockquote>[*]Cardstock
<blockquote>See Frizzlefry's topic "Tutorial: How to use Pepakura to make your Mjolnir Armor"
Try to find an un-coloured bundle, in a ream of 250 sheets. They should be available at office supply stores as well as stationary/arts/crafts stores. I get mine at Office Depot at one 110# ream for about $12.</blockquote>[*]Printer[*]Cutting tool
<blockquote>If you work well with scissors, they will do. However, for precise cutting use a utility knife, x-acto knife (I mean the sorts that look like scalpels) or a snap-blade knife. I prefer the last because you can simply snap off the end when it becomes dull. If you're cheap like me you can prolong the sharpness of your cutter's edge by using a honer, just like you do for kitchen knives, before you begin.</blockquote>[*]Glue
<blockquote>The recommendations for types of glue is extremely varied; some like glue guns best, others use interior wood glue, some use ordinary PVA school glue. I use no-name brand school glue and have never had any problems.</blockquote>[/list]Optional<ul>[*]Self-healing cutting mat
<blockquote>Makes sure that previous cuts don't mess up the cut you're making.</blockquote>[*]Toothpicks
<blockquote>Used for applying glue; cleaner than using your fingertips unless you regularly starve yourself and wash your hands every thirty seocnds.</blockquote>[*]Two differently coloured pens
<blockquote>Used to colour-code the different crease types and for scoring lines</blockquote>[*]Metal ruler/straight-edge
<blockquote>Used to guide the pens above; needs to be metal because plastic will be worn away.</blockquote>[/list]Unless you're a well built seven foot tall super soldier, you'll need to resize the suit parts in Pepakura so that it will fit you.
Cutting, Scoring, and Assembling
I was going to struggle with trying to show how to work with the printed sheets one-handed but I found out that Yamaha (yes, the motorcycle manufacturer) already has an awesome tutorial. So really, all I can think of writing about in this section is the method of scoring I like to use. If you don't want to bother with this way, scoring with the back of your knife or a single pen freehand style is fine as well, but I don't recommend skipping scoring altogether. If you score, you'll have to do minimal fussing after assembly to making sure it's in the correct shape; mine just fell together as I glued thanks to the wonders of scoring. Please excuse the photo quality of the following pictures; I only had my cell phone's camera available.
Use any two colours you like but use one exclusively for the dashes and dots (- · - · - · - · -) and the other exclusively for the dashes (- - - - - -). To be safe, write which is which down somewhere so you can refresh your memory. Line up your ruler and mark along the edge using normal pressure with your pen; this step is only to ensure you'll score on the line. You can skip this step after you get a hang of how far from the ruler's edge your pen's ink will actually lay. Repeat pressing hard this time. You can do this more times if you think it's necessary but doing so too many times will weaken the card stock and leave it prone to ripping. If your ruler is smudging or otherwise leaving unwanted marks, wipe it down; it's probably residual ink or pencil graphite.
[attachment=647
SC02779.JPG]
[attachment=648SC02780.JPG]
After you've done this on all your lines, fold it up. If you used the default configuration on pepakura, dashes and dots will be valley folds and dashes will be mountain folds.
Valley folds go like this;
[attachment=649SC02782.JPG]
and mountain folds go like this.
[attachment=650SC02781.JPG]
The end result will be something like this:
[attachment=651:cardstock_complete.JPG]
Although, as long you're consistent, you can use one fold for the other and build your parts "inside-out" so that grid lines and numbers will be on the inside. There's not much point to doing that in this case since you're probably painting this later on.
Assembly is explained in the Yamaha tutorial. All I can advise you to do is to work from the more complicated part to simpler ones; for example, the front (visor-side) to the back on the helmet. I didn't and ended up having to glue itty bitty tabs on the chin part while working around the rest of the helmet. I cried a little (but MANLY tears). Oh, and use the numbers to center the tabs and make sure they fit together properly; this really helps when gluing a long string of tabs.
Guide under construction; to be updated later. While you wait, here's pictures of a tiny horse and my cat ruining my test helmet.
Preparation
I know you're probably roaring to get going but if prep time helps Batman (I wonder if anybody will get this joke) it will help you, I guarantee it. Here's the materials you'll need:
Essentials<ul>[*]Pepakura Designer
<blockquote>See Frizzlefry's topic "Tutorial: How to use Pepakura to make your Mjolnir Armor"
This is the program used to view and edit .pdo files.</blockquote>[*].pdo files (WARNING: KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN)
<blockquote>See Frizzlefry's topic "Tutorial: How to use Pepakura to make your Mjolnir Armor"
I believe the files provided in that topic are for MkV and MkVI is in the works by Slyfo.</blockquote>[*]Cardstock
<blockquote>See Frizzlefry's topic "Tutorial: How to use Pepakura to make your Mjolnir Armor"
Try to find an un-coloured bundle, in a ream of 250 sheets. They should be available at office supply stores as well as stationary/arts/crafts stores. I get mine at Office Depot at one 110# ream for about $12.</blockquote>[*]Printer[*]Cutting tool
<blockquote>If you work well with scissors, they will do. However, for precise cutting use a utility knife, x-acto knife (I mean the sorts that look like scalpels) or a snap-blade knife. I prefer the last because you can simply snap off the end when it becomes dull. If you're cheap like me you can prolong the sharpness of your cutter's edge by using a honer, just like you do for kitchen knives, before you begin.</blockquote>[*]Glue
<blockquote>The recommendations for types of glue is extremely varied; some like glue guns best, others use interior wood glue, some use ordinary PVA school glue. I use no-name brand school glue and have never had any problems.</blockquote>[/list]Optional<ul>[*]Self-healing cutting mat
<blockquote>Makes sure that previous cuts don't mess up the cut you're making.</blockquote>[*]Toothpicks
<blockquote>Used for applying glue; cleaner than using your fingertips unless you regularly starve yourself and wash your hands every thirty seocnds.</blockquote>[*]Two differently coloured pens
<blockquote>Used to colour-code the different crease types and for scoring lines</blockquote>[*]Metal ruler/straight-edge
<blockquote>Used to guide the pens above; needs to be metal because plastic will be worn away.</blockquote>[/list]Unless you're a well built seven foot tall super soldier, you'll need to resize the suit parts in Pepakura so that it will fit you.
Once that's done, you're pretty much ready to start building. I made a test model of the helmet out of copy paper to make sure I used Frizzlefry's formula correctly before doing one out of card stock, which you can do as well if you're worried, but it turned out perfectly for me the first time. To check if it worked, cut out the visor; you should be able to see your eyes and nose but your mouth will be down in the jaw-chin part. Note that if you are not using a test build do not cut out the visor until you're done fiberglassing and whatnot; it's needed there for structural support.Frizzlefry said:
Cutting, Scoring, and Assembling
I was going to struggle with trying to show how to work with the printed sheets one-handed but I found out that Yamaha (yes, the motorcycle manufacturer) already has an awesome tutorial. So really, all I can think of writing about in this section is the method of scoring I like to use. If you don't want to bother with this way, scoring with the back of your knife or a single pen freehand style is fine as well, but I don't recommend skipping scoring altogether. If you score, you'll have to do minimal fussing after assembly to making sure it's in the correct shape; mine just fell together as I glued thanks to the wonders of scoring. Please excuse the photo quality of the following pictures; I only had my cell phone's camera available.
Use any two colours you like but use one exclusively for the dashes and dots (- · - · - · - · -) and the other exclusively for the dashes (- - - - - -). To be safe, write which is which down somewhere so you can refresh your memory. Line up your ruler and mark along the edge using normal pressure with your pen; this step is only to ensure you'll score on the line. You can skip this step after you get a hang of how far from the ruler's edge your pen's ink will actually lay. Repeat pressing hard this time. You can do this more times if you think it's necessary but doing so too many times will weaken the card stock and leave it prone to ripping. If your ruler is smudging or otherwise leaving unwanted marks, wipe it down; it's probably residual ink or pencil graphite.
[attachment=647
SC02779.JPG][attachment=648
SC02780.JPG]After you've done this on all your lines, fold it up. If you used the default configuration on pepakura, dashes and dots will be valley folds and dashes will be mountain folds.
Valley folds go like this;
[attachment=649
SC02782.JPG]and mountain folds go like this.
[attachment=650
SC02781.JPG]The end result will be something like this:
[attachment=651:cardstock_complete.JPG]
Although, as long you're consistent, you can use one fold for the other and build your parts "inside-out" so that grid lines and numbers will be on the inside. There's not much point to doing that in this case since you're probably painting this later on.
Assembly is explained in the Yamaha tutorial. All I can advise you to do is to work from the more complicated part to simpler ones; for example, the front (visor-side) to the back on the helmet. I didn't and ended up having to glue itty bitty tabs on the chin part while working around the rest of the helmet. I cried a little (but MANLY tears). Oh, and use the numbers to center the tabs and make sure they fit together properly; this really helps when gluing a long string of tabs.
Guide under construction; to be updated later. While you wait, here's pictures of a tiny horse and my cat ruining my test helmet.
Last edited by a moderator:
