Pepakura Query - Anyone Used Styrene Sheets (Plasticard)?

[monkey beast]

Hi guys,



I'm a true n00b when it comes to Halo Armour, so please bare with me if any of this is a repost or has been answered before.



I've recently got into making my own Halo armour - going for a MK IV "hybrid" version. I've been following the Pepakura paper versions, and have had some success with the Helmet (really am pleased with it - will post some pics when I get time). The only problem I have had is with some of the smaller detailed sections as the card I'm using tends to distort when using glue. I'm thinking of trying to use Plasticard/Styrene sheet (it's the same stuff but known differently either side of the pond). Has anyone tried using it before? Can you print onto it using a standard inkjet printer? I might get some and see what I can do with it - it'll be interesting if I can get it to work as it'll make it waterproof straight off, so shouldn't mean I need to resin impregnate it prior to fiberglassing it (or bypass fibreglassing it completely, and just build up filler straight on it.)



Next question is what thickness do I use? I've been looking around and can get A4 sheets in various thicknesses. I was thinking of going with 0.25mm/10 thou thickness, which is the thinnest you can get, but it might be too thin and not provide any support. Think I need to do a little experimentation with it.



Any feedback people have is greatly appreciated!



MB

 

[RaspyOrangutan]

Hi, welcome to the site.



To be hoesnt, I doubt you could use an inject printer on Styrene. However, doens't mean you can't use styrene. Try printing the pep out on paper as usual, then use a spray on adhesive to sick the paper to the styrene.



will be interesting to see how it would turn out though.

 

[Falinos]

I agree, the gluing to the styrene seems like a more likely approach, but it is a interesting thought. love to see how it works out

 

[CoolC]

All,



This is my first posting since joining 405th. I'm currently working on 2 sets of costumes for my kids (9 and 6 years old). The first thought that came to my mind was to use styrene sheets. However, I found that it was too hard to work with and too costly. Beside finding ways to print to the sheets is one thing, but trying to use scissors to cut styrene sheets thousands of cuts will kill your fingers. On average I made more than a thousand cut on piece of costume. As of date, I pepped more than 20 pieces of them. Stick with the group and use 110lbs cardstock. Use Elmer's glue to stick is the best. Apply the glue on both sides (sparingly) and wait 1 minute for them to dry. When you put both sides together, they stick immediately without warping.

 

[monkey beast]

Well I've just been out and bought a pack of 20 thou (0.5mm) Styrene sheet in sizes described as "A4+" I had to do a little trimming and to get it in my printer, but it fit. I saw everyone's reply, but I thought "bugger it, lets give it a try" and have set my printer to print on Matt Photo paper, and printed on it.



Attached are a couple of pics - at first glance it looks ok. I left the page number on as I can "touch" this to see if its dry (it wasn't which is why it is slightly smudged). I'm going to treat it as I would a gloss photo print so will leave it for an hour or so to see if the ink goes off. I'm actually surprised the image has come out to crisp and clear (sorry abou the crappy images but using iPhone as digi-cam battery is flat.)



[attachment=16787epakura 1.jpg]



[attachment=16786epakura 2.jpg]



I'll keep everyone posted! Looks like no-one has thought about this before. I am thinking if the ink fails to stick as it is, I'll use some water to wipe off the ink and then I'll try using some "wet'n'dry" on it to rough it up and send it through the printer again. If this fails, I think I'll be trying the paper-stick method. Material itself is like a thick card, but is sort of semi-opaque. Looks funky!

 

[Jeddychan]

Well I've just been out and bought a pack of 20 thou (0.5mm) Styrene sheet in sizes described as "A4+" I had to do a little trimming and to get it in my printer, but it fit. I saw everyone's reply, but I thought "bugger it, lets give it a try" and have set my printer to print on Matt Photo paper, and printed on it.



Attached are a couple of pics - at first glance it looks ok. I left the page number on as I can "touch" this to see if its dry (it wasn't which is why it is slightly smudged). I'm going to treat it as I would a gloss photo print so will leave it for an hour or so to see if the ink goes off. I'm actually surprised the image has come out to crisp and clear (sorry abou the crappy images but using iPhone as digi-cam battery is flat.)





I'll keep everyone posted! Looks like no-one has thought about this before. I am thinking if the ink fails to stick as it is, I'll use some water to wipe off the ink and then I'll try using some "wet'n'dry" on it to rough it up and send it through the printer again. If this fails, I think I'll be trying the paper-stick method. Material itself is like a thick card, but is sort of semi-opaque. Looks funky!

looks like an interesting idea... it might make fiberglassing it, easier and reduce warping... thats if the resin doesnt eat through it...



keep up the good work!

 

[monkey beast]

Hi guys,



further update



Well, I left it for an hour or so and have come back to it. The ink didn't appear completly dry so I've gone over it with some tissue paper and taken the surplus ink off. The ink underneath appears to have stuck!!! I'm going to have a try to cut it up now and see how much is left after I've been cutting for a bit. (see below).

[attachment=16793:Image00006.jpg]



Also, did a couple of test "glues" with the cutoff pieces I had trimmed when I cut the sheet down to A4. I tried using Plastic Weld (like hobby glue but 10 times stronger and bloody strong smelling stuff - def use in ventelated space), and some Revell hobby polystyrene cement that I had knocking about. Few pictures below.



[attachment=16794:Image00002.jpg]

Plastic Weld



[attachment=16795:Image00003.jpg]

Polystyrene Cement



Now either one of two things is going to happen when I'm cutting out. Either I'm going to end up with all the ink on my fingers and none of it on the sheet, or its going to work. Watch this space...

 

[monkey beast]

Well, I tried it and below is the finished result...

[attachment=16803:Image00011.jpg]



Unfortunately, as you can see below, some of the writing predictably smudged.

[attachment=16804:Image00010.jpg]



Not only that, but the "scoring" method I was using to bend the styrene sheets, as per Card resulted in the "hinge" failing and the flaps falling off, as soon as I added the polystyrene cememnt/Plastic Weld, due to the way it disolves the top layer.

[attachment=16805:Image00008.jpg]





I still think it's a possible alternative, but I need to rethink a few things;

• Better method of folding plastic (heat is a possible option, as the plastic melts at ~80C)
• Better method of getting the ink to "stick" to the styrene (I considered trying a laser printer, but as mentioned above low melting point, therefore would equal broken laser printer). Need to try the sanding possibility, and the fall back is sticking the sheet to the plastic. This does have a potential issue with the contact cement not working then though.
• Possible alternative to plastic cement. I have been using PVA glue for the card, so I might experiment with that, but as the styrene is none porous, I doubt it'll be a very strong join. Possibly contact adhesive (ie, Aroldite).

If any of you guys can think of an alternative, then please feel free to yell some suggestions my way!

 

[RaspyOrangutan]

Well, I take it all back. good work mon!

 

[Jeddychan]

I still think it's a possible alternative, but I need to rethink a few things;

• Better method of folding plastic (heat is a possible option, as the plastic melts at ~80C)
• Possible alternative to plastic cement. I have been using PVA glue for the card, so I might experiment with that, but as the styrene is none porous, I doubt it'll be a very strong join. Possibly contact adhesive (ie, Aroldite).

If any of you guys can think of an alternative, then please feel free to yell some suggestions my way!

-if you try to melt the plastic to fold it, an embossing gun might work... I know its hot enough to melt some 2" PVC a little bit, but since this stuff is so thin, I think a heat gun would be too much and might melt it beyond recognition



-have you tried super glue to attach it together? its not a good idea for normal pepakura with cardstock, but for this it might work perfect... the only other thing I can think of is PVC cement (unless PVA glue is the same as PVC cement), but that adheres the plastic together by melting it together... so that might not work...





anyways, good luck expirimenting!

 

[dkaniel]

Yes please keep us informed on your progress, this just might be a viable alternative!

 

[spartan062]

Have you tried CA glue? Or hot glue?

 

[ummi60]

What did you use to cut it? scissors? x-acto knife or a razor knife?

 

[amancue]

one Idea for print might be transfer sheets, and the plasticard I've used cuts fairly easily w/ an x-acto knife, small detail cuts are annoying

I made the raised Aquilla on my Bolt Pistol from plasticard

 

[Qarantine]

Hmm this is a brilliant idea. it has huge potential.

i would have tried getting a thicker sheet, like 1cm and using the paper stick method and cutting it out with a dremel. then trying to cut the edges at the angles so they fit flat together and give me the desired overall angle of the two joined surfaces. once finished, sand any edges smooth, then paint it with metallic colors, gloss it, put some internal padding, etc. for a visor i would use a similar method but with clear drying glue and some transparent poly-styrene or something of the sort, then just put a colored glaze on it