ScarletOkami169
Member
thanks Red.. and ik Land airsoft.. ill look into the BOA and pming Blacksyper....
-Yort
EDIT:
cant find Blacksyper...
-Yort
EDIT:
cant find Blacksyper...
Props Product Review: Airsoft Halo MA-5B Assault Rifle (Evike CB-88 Chrono Blaster)
- Thread starter Redshirt
- Start date
- Status
BlackSyper
New Member
Hey Yortstorm, BlackSyper would be me. I currently have one of these CB 88 that I'm contemplating on selling. I'd be happy to talk to you about selling it if you'd care to pm me.
Also, as a follow up to my previous post about the gun not being LiPo ready. I found out that it is impossible to make this gun LiPo ready due to the custom IRFZ mosfet inside of the gun. If you are going to run a LiPo through this gun, you better take kaween advice and disconnect the battery when not in use. In addition, to protect your LiPo from being destroyed or damaged while using it with this gun, Evike suggested that you don't run the same battery through the gun for more than an hour or two. Interchanging between two batteries was their recommended method when using lipos in this non LiPo gun.
For those that are going to stick with the recommended NiMh type batteries, the biggest batteries you can run through this gun are 9.6v small brick type batteries. It will be a tight fit and may require a little modification in the battery compartment. However, since the 8.4v brick types that Evike sells deliver good performance, there isn't really a need for upgrading to a higher voltage.
ScarletOkami169
Member
they said the same about my GameFace M4A1... i only have one battery that lasts 5-6 hours+
and thanks for saying quite a bit about it... ill think about it as we talk...
-Yort
and thanks for saying quite a bit about it... ill think about it as we talk...
-Yort
As for buying the CB88, you can add this one too as source http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/nca-301b-custom-halo-chrono-blaster-88-aeg.html#.VmLCxPkvddg
I know firsthand they have them on stock.
They do pop up on Ebay regulary too. A quick search on Ebay gave me 3 hits today.
... but if Blacksyder still has his available, you're of course better off talking to him first : closer to home is always preferable, and you know at least the gun works as reported by a trusted forum member.
I just added the extra info for the ehobbyasia as alternative source for other people looking for this -honestly quite awesome- gun
I know firsthand they have them on stock.
They do pop up on Ebay regulary too. A quick search on Ebay gave me 3 hits today.
... but if Blacksyder still has his available, you're of course better off talking to him first : closer to home is always preferable, and you know at least the gun works as reported by a trusted forum member.
I just added the extra info for the ehobbyasia as alternative source for other people looking for this -honestly quite awesome- gun
- Member DIN
- S980
Outstanding guys. Thanks Kaween for the extra source. Better pricing than from the UK. Thank you BlackSyper for reaching out to Yortstorm. Hopefully you can work something out. Thanks also for the additional care and feeding tips from the Evike staff. I will also add that to my article--when I get the time to sit down to it.
Redshirt
Redshirt
Alfanycros3991
New Member
I got one, but i have one problem i shoot and the bb's go to the left i have already cleaned the inner barrel but the problem still there i was wondering if someone coul help me
- Member DIN
- S980
Alfanycros3991,
I don't know what your airsoft experience is, so I'll start with the basics.
What type (brand and weight) of BB are you using? (You need quality BBs (not Walmart or Crossman) of at least .20g for this gun)
Have you used the hop-up adjust on the right side of the gun to adjust the BB's vertical path? (It is just below the upper shroud on the right. Place it somewhere in the middle of its range and adjust it until the BBs fly flat vertical trajectories as you sight down the top of the shroud.
If you are not shooting cheap or light BBs and playing with the hop-up adjust doesn't work (especially if the hop-up adjust has no effect) then you either have a burr or some deformation at the end of your barrel that imparts a right spin as the BB exits or (more likely) you have a damaged hop-up bucking that was misaligned when the gun was put together.
Visually inspect the barrel end and see that nothing is wrong. Maybe even take a small round needle file and clean up the edges of the barrel opening. Failing that, you'll need to disassemble the gun using my guide and replace the hop-up bucking. I'd favor doing the work yourself as many airsoft shops and techs don't want to mess with these guns due to their lengthy breakdown and complexity. My local shop quoted another owner a $200 bench fee which is his polite way of saying, "I don't want to work on your gun."
Please let me know if you found anything or got it fixed.
Redshirt
Alfanycros3991
New Member
I did what you told me, i changed the bucking and the inner barrel and now everything is going perfect, thanks for you help it was very usefull
- Member DIN
- S980
Sweet! Congrats, you are only the second person who has fully taken one of these things apart. It is a lot longer process than breaking down an M4, but still pretty straightforward. What inner barrel did you use?
Redshirt
Hi Guys,
Redshirt thank you this awesome thread you started here. I wish I would have found your guide before I disassembled mine. It would have made the process a lot easier!
I recently received one of the CB-88 rifles and, similar to kaween, mine will fire in full auto as soon as a battery is connected to the tamaya connector. Regardless of whether a mag is in it, whether the circuit board is on or off, whether it's in safe, semi or full auto it will cycle continuously until the battery is disconnected.
Different from kaween, I have very little knowledge of circuitry and couldn't immediately find a problem with the soldering on the CB.
Does anyone notice anything that I completely missed? Anyone have any suggestions?
I looked briefly to see if I could find the circuit board from the M41A to see if it was the same and if it could simply replace this CB, but I didn't find one.
My only other thought was to run the positive wire from the board to the trigger before it comes back to the motor.
All else fails, sell it for Cosplay?
Thanks in advance,
Pic
Redshirt thank you this awesome thread you started here. I wish I would have found your guide before I disassembled mine. It would have made the process a lot easier!
I recently received one of the CB-88 rifles and, similar to kaween, mine will fire in full auto as soon as a battery is connected to the tamaya connector. Regardless of whether a mag is in it, whether the circuit board is on or off, whether it's in safe, semi or full auto it will cycle continuously until the battery is disconnected.
Different from kaween, I have very little knowledge of circuitry and couldn't immediately find a problem with the soldering on the CB.
Does anyone notice anything that I completely missed? Anyone have any suggestions?
I looked briefly to see if I could find the circuit board from the M41A to see if it was the same and if it could simply replace this CB, but I didn't find one.
My only other thought was to run the positive wire from the board to the trigger before it comes back to the motor.
All else fails, sell it for Cosplay?
Thanks in advance,
Pic
- Member DIN
- S980
Picasso,
I would take a solder gun and very patiently remelt every solder joint on the board, especially the three joints of the IRFZ44n (the middle one looks suspect) and then try it again. I don't think this will fix it, but you may solve a cold solder joint you didn't see. This approach has saved me a ton of money on automotive electronics. Anyway, if resoldering doesn't fix it, make the same upgrade that Kaween made. The IFRZ44n is likely to have failed, just without melting. Just order one up from DigiKey and hopefully that solves it.
Please post to let the community know how you come out. The gun is basically an orphan. This thread seems to be the only collection of data on this gun. Thanks and good luck.
Redshirt
ps: Leviathan Tactical in Pensacola has one for sale. I'll post it in the marketplace.
I would take a solder gun and very patiently remelt every solder joint on the board, especially the three joints of the IRFZ44n (the middle one looks suspect) and then try it again. I don't think this will fix it, but you may solve a cold solder joint you didn't see. This approach has saved me a ton of money on automotive electronics. Anyway, if resoldering doesn't fix it, make the same upgrade that Kaween made. The IFRZ44n is likely to have failed, just without melting. Just order one up from DigiKey and hopefully that solves it.
Please post to let the community know how you come out. The gun is basically an orphan. This thread seems to be the only collection of data on this gun. Thanks and good luck.
Redshirt
ps: Leviathan Tactical in Pensacola has one for sale. I'll post it in the marketplace.
Redshirt outdrew me and has basically told you everything already, there's very little I can add there. 
In case it still doesn't work afterwards and you've no other solution, I offer to repair it at component+PP cost.**
But I for one would not be surprised that if you'd stick to what Redshirt tells you to do, your gun will work perfectly afterwards because it's very likely your control board failed in the same way as mine did, and a repair only costs 1€ or so in parts and 30 seconds in time. Take a full 5 minutes if I'd have to reflow the board.
Reminds me, I still have to post that LiPo fix I did. Will have to dismantle the gun one of these days and make a propper "how to" for everyone interested, but it's not exactly rocket science : I added a relais that cuts the power from the Lipo when the logic board is switched off, preventing catastraphic runaway and dying Lipos.
** : it goes without saying, I only need the control board, not the complete gun.
In case it still doesn't work afterwards and you've no other solution, I offer to repair it at component+PP cost.**
But I for one would not be surprised that if you'd stick to what Redshirt tells you to do, your gun will work perfectly afterwards because it's very likely your control board failed in the same way as mine did, and a repair only costs 1€ or so in parts and 30 seconds in time. Take a full 5 minutes if I'd have to reflow the board.
Reminds me, I still have to post that LiPo fix I did. Will have to dismantle the gun one of these days and make a propper "how to" for everyone interested, but it's not exactly rocket science : I added a relais that cuts the power from the Lipo when the logic board is switched off, preventing catastraphic runaway and dying Lipos.
** : it goes without saying, I only need the control board, not the complete gun.
- Member DIN
- S980
Thanks for tagging in. I definitely want to see your relat setup and make the same mod to mine.
Redshirt
EllaTheKea
Member
If I can find one then I would try and get it, But that is going to be nearly impossible where I live. It would be nice if there were more Halo weapons in airsoft. Especially a DMR.
- Member DIN
- S980
I know you are in New Zealand, but a local shop has one for $400 US with several magazines. They do international shipping. PM if you want their contact details. I am working on more Halo airsoft right now. Thread coming soon!
Redshirt
EllaTheKea
Member
That's not the main problem. Since the MA5 is a full auto weapon, I will need to get import permits for it. That is a real pain as the police tend to make things hard for airsofters. I would have to see how to get a permit before getting one. I can't wait to see your airsoft thread.
blackout11c
Jr Member
You need a licence to import airsoft weapons in general, irrespective of their fire modes. http://www.police.govt.nz/advice/firearms/firearms-licensing-collectors-and-dealers
So you need to talk to your local Arms officer about it, and they should be able to help.
EllaTheKea
Member
I'll take a look at the link. Thanks for correcting me as well, I've been told by my club obviously the wrong thing. I will look getting a permit as soon as I get the chance.
ODSTmagnum
New Member
Redshirt,
I noticed on the first page or so of this thread that you said you'd start to work on an airsoft Magnum, but that currently, it's on the back-burner. By any chance, is there any progress with that? Has it been taken off the back-burner, so to speak?
I noticed on the first page or so of this thread that you said you'd start to work on an airsoft Magnum, but that currently, it's on the back-burner. By any chance, is there any progress with that? Has it been taken off the back-burner, so to speak?
- Member DIN
- S980
Still on the back burner, though I was eyeballing it the other day. I am doing a full-metal and fiberglass AR that is a true bullpup right now. It has been a long slow road to get my CNC and CAD skills to where I need, but the current project requires a custom gearbox which is no small matter. Anyway, once I have a prototype gearbox cut, I'll go live with that thread. I'll keep the airsoft gas blowback Magnum burning, though slowly.
Redshirt
- Status
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