pumpkins jorge helmet WIP

Status
Not open for further replies.

pumpkinking39

New Member
IMG_0652.jpg

IMG_0653.jpg


my current progress so far should be finished pepping in a couple days
 
I think I see tape there. The adhesive on that will run away when you bring in polyester resin, so you'll either have to use another kind of glue or something else to harden the model.
 
it is tape but that was just to hold the tabs while the glue dried overnight and yes it is a mario star that soon got crushed sadly:(
 
Looking nice, man. It looks as if all your printed pages/supplies are all in a shoebox. Good idea. I've just been keeping my stuff spread out all over the place. Nice job so far.
 
it is tape but that was just to hold the tabs while the glue dried overnight and yes it is a mario star that soon got crushed sadly:(

I would really suggest that you use a different glue then, there's a whole range of suitable products. I know that it's often more conventient to use whatever you already have at hand, but in the long run, a product that better suits your needs will yield the better result.

If you try to remove the tape, you'll probably damage the model (for example, there's already some furry paper at the right side of the brim) and if you don't remove it, it's going to look really ugly once it comes into contact with resin. Strips that come loose completely can also move around while you brush on resin and will then obviously get stuck on the model when the resin cures, possibly with some inconvenient twist that you have to sand off later.
 
Ventrue speaks words of great wisdom.

Obviously the point here is not to discourage you, but he is right; "a product that better suits your needs will yield the better result."

If you want an alternative to hot glue that is cheap and is easy to work with I'd pick up a small bottle of DAP Contact Cement. I bought a quart for $20 and only used 1/10th of it for several helmets and chest pieces.

You use a Q-Tip and apply some to a tab and where it's going to be placed, then you position it and, when you're ready, apply pressure for 10-30 seconds. Contact Cement is used in carpentry so the bond is extremely solid.
 
Yeah, I would definitely stay away from tape. Also, when you resin the pieces the tape tore off, you will have a low spot in your hardened model where a thin layer of your cardstock has been removed. This not only takes away smoothness, but also will require more bondo, etc. work to get it to look right. I have been using Elmer's no-wrinkle craft glue. Here's a link to what it looks like: http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E132 The good thing about this stuff is that if you don't put globs on each tab and use a thinner layer, it gets tacky in about 30 seconds and fully cures in about 15 minutes. That means after about 30 seconds to a minute you can leave it alone and it will hold without worrying if it will move around. Also, for really small tabs, I use super glue because it holds quickly and you don't have to hold it forever.
 
what i jave been using is elmers school glue which is pretty messy itself, but i heard that superglue is hard to work with because the bond is not very good bbut that is only what i heard about it. the kind of tape im using to hold everything overnight is masking tape which usually comes off very easy. anyways the helmet is about halfway done the only setback is that some sheets are missing for the template and i need to print those out and hopefully this negative temperature will pass by the time i need to resin the helmet (kinda wierd considering im in Texas and its in the negatives) and also thanks ventrue for the helpful advice.
 
what i jave been using is elmers school glue which is pretty messy itself, but i heard that superglue is hard to work with because the bond is not very good bbut that is only what i heard about it. the kind of tape im using to hold everything overnight is masking tape which usually comes off very easy. anyways the helmet is about halfway done the only setback is that some sheets are missing for the template and i need to print those out and hopefully this negative temperature will pass by the time i need to resin the helmet (kinda wierd considering im in Texas and its in the negatives) and also thanks ventrue for the helpful advice.

Oh, cured superglue can be a bit brittle, but it's definitely strong. The paper is going to be the weak part of your model if you glue it together properly, no matter what glue you use.
 
I figured I should post an update to this thread, even if it is 5 years later. This helmet did make it through the paper phase, but was left in a closet for some time. Eventually, my aunt moved into the room where it was being kept and carelessly crushed it with her belongings, so this helmet will not be completed.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top