Recon/Scout Project Dilemma -- which generation to build?

[GenericCola]

I'd like some community input, here.

My girlfriend and I have decided to make a set of matching Scout/Recon armor (because we're that kind of couple), and though we had initially intended to construct the suits from Halo 4, we're running into a lot of issues:

1- Most of the files we need just don't exist, and many that do are either inaccurate or incomplete.

2- We're new to the hobby, and building H4 armor on your first rodeo seems to be taking on an awful big challenge. I've put in ~7 hours pepping her Recon helmet, and I've hardly put a dent in it-- plus, when it comes to the bondo and detail work, I'm afraid I'll lose the fidelity of the pep design.

3- The H4 helmets also have very unique visors which I would need to vacuum form-- a process which I am not sure I can accommodate.

As such, I've been considering putting the H4 suits aside, and working on building us a pair of suits from H3 instead, since the 405th has a complete database of H3 resources, and the forums can easily provide the most support for it. I briefly considered Reach, as well, but the database has neither the Recon nor the Scout variant files.

 

[Chernobyl]

I've split your post up, so I can answer each point a little better for you.

2- We're new to the hobby, and building H4 armor on your first rodeo seems to be taking on an awful big challenge. I've put in ~7 hours pepping her Recon helmet, and I've hardly put a dent in it-- plus, when it comes to the bondo and detail work, I'm afraid I'll lose the fidelity of the pep design.

This is where some TLC and practise comes into the fore. I'm sorry to say that detailing any piece is going to be a labour of love - even the ones that make it look easy spend a lot of time making the fruits of their labour shine. Some builds can take a number of months or even years. This really isn't a hobby where you can hop in and get an entire suit finished up in a few months, and expect it to look spectacular - especially straight off the starting line. My suggestion would be to take it slow, start on something small to get your eye in - perhaps start on a shin, or a shoulder piece, or something relatively flat and easy to finish. Once you have the basic techniques you can then apply them to larger pieces, such as a helmet or a chestplate.

3- The H4 helmets also have very unique visors which I would need to vacuum form-- a process which I am not sure I can accommodate.

You'd be surprised. Vacuum-forming can be done with nothing more than a reasonably-powerful vacuum cleaner, an oven, and a home-built table, and if you're careful about it you can get some pretty impressive visors out of acceptably-thick acrylic (3mm or so). After that, some automotive window tint carefully applied over the top will finish the job - especially for the Recon or Scout visors.

There are tutorials out there on how to build your own vac-forming table for less than $50, all told - a cheap investment. Your other alternative would be to use a heat-gun to bend your visors over a buck, but that method would be more prone to errors and buckling in your plastic.

As such, I've been considering putting the H4 suits aside, and working on building us a pair of suits from H3 instead, since the 405th has a complete database of H3 resources, and the forums can easily provide the most support for it. I briefly considered Reach, as well, but the database has neither the Recon nor the Scout variant files.

I wouldn't recommend the Halo 3 Scout helmet, personally. Although I love it, it shares some of the issues with the Halo 3-era Rogue helm, in that it leaves a lot of the lower jaw exposed, and generally isn't made well for the head. And, since I'm in agreement with your statement that the Halo 4 armours are quite complex, I'd suggest Reach as a starting point - most of the base files exist in a foam-friendly format, which will cut down drastically on the workload and effort required to make even the larger pieces, such as a torso. Plus, you have the benefit of the overall armour being much lighter and easier to handle.

I'm fairly sure that both the Mk V Scout and Recon files exist somewhere on the forum. If I can't find them for you, I'm certain I have them backed up on my computer somewhere (I have Forged's Scout helm, certainly, and I could likely provide you with a Recon helm file for you to have a go at while we try to find you the remaining pieces). As soon as I've located the files for you, I'll PM you the links.

Most importantly: don't be discouraged! It seems daunting at first, but this is a long and highly rewarding journey. I do hope you'll stay with us and turn out two amazing sets of armour.

 

[GenericCola]

I've split your post up, so I can answer each point a little better for you.



This is where some TLC and practise comes into the fore. I'm sorry to say that detailing any piece is going to be a labour of love - even the ones that make it look easy spend a lot of time making the fruits of their labour shine. Some builds can take a number of months or even years. This really isn't a hobby where you can hop in and get an entire suit finished up in a few months, and expect it to look spectacular - especially straight off the starting line. My suggestion would be to take it slow, start on something small to get your eye in - perhaps start on a shin, or a shoulder piece, or something relatively flat and easy to finish. Once you have the basic techniques you can then apply them to larger pieces, such as a helmet or a chestplate.



You'd be surprised. Vacuum-forming can be done with nothing more than a reasonably-powerful vacuum cleaner, an oven, and a home-built table, and if you're careful about it you can get some pretty impressive visors out of acceptably-thick acrylic (3mm or so). After that, some automotive window tint carefully applied over the top will finish the job - especially for the Recon or Scout visors.

There are tutorials out there on how to build your own vac-forming table for less than $50, all told - a cheap investment. Your other alternative would be to use a heat-gun to bend your visors over a buck, but that method would be more prone to errors and buckling in your plastic.



I wouldn't recommend the Halo 3 Scout helmet, personally. Although I love it, it shares some of the issues with the Halo 3-era Rogue helm, in that it leaves a lot of the lower jaw exposed, and generally isn't made well for the head. And, since I'm in agreement with your statement that the Halo 4 armours are quite complex, I'd suggest Reach as a starting point - most of the base files exist in a foam-friendly format, which will cut down drastically on the workload and effort required to make even the larger pieces, such as a torso. Plus, you have the benefit of the overall armour being much lighter and easier to handle.

I'm fairly sure that both the Mk V Scout and Recon files exist somewhere on the forum. If I can't find them for you, I'm certain I have them backed up on my computer somewhere (I have Forged's Scout helm, certainly, and I could likely provide you with a Recon helm file for you to have a go at while we try to find you the remaining pieces). As soon as I've located the files for you, I'll PM you the links.

Most importantly: don't be discouraged! It seems daunting at first, but this is a long and highly rewarding journey. I do hope you'll stay with us and turn out two amazing sets of armour.

Oh, believe me-- I know this is going to be one heck of a challenge. That's why I figured taking the added challenge of doing H4 armor was probably ill-advised. It's a shame that the H3 scout doesn't work out so well, but I'm glad I learned it here and not in my garage two weeks from now.

I'll look forward to the Reach files, if you can find them. I'm just not too partial to the Reach Scout armor, unfortunately. Oh well, at least I'd have a functional piece xD

Thanks

 

[MissingSpartan7]

I briefly considered Reach, as well, but the database has neither the Recon nor the Scout variant files.

The Database has both those files - it's a recurring issue that has more to do with 4shared. There are actually two pages - look for a small [2] either above or below the main interface.

By default, you'll be directed to this link
4shared.com/folder/CCB_6QwQ/405th_Pepakura_Database.html
If the URL has /folder/, it displays much like a file browser, and the page 2 issue will occur in \\Reach\Helmets\

Change it to this:
4shared.com/dir/CCB_6QwQ/405th_Pepakura_Database.html
If it has /dir/, it displays a list of all the subfolders in \\Reach\Helmets\

 

[GenericCola]

The Database has both those files - it's a recurring issue that has more to do with 4shared. There are actually two pages - look for a small [2] either above or below the main interface.

By default, you'll be directed to this link
4shared.com/folder/CCB_6QwQ/405th_Pepakura_Database.html
If the URL has /folder/, it displays much like a file browser, and the page 2 issue will occur in \\Reach\Helmets\

Change it to this:
4shared.com/dir/CCB_6QwQ/405th_Pepakura_Database.html
If it has /dir/, it displays a list of all the subfolders in \\Reach\Helmets\

Thanks for the fix! Are there any other directories you know of which suffer from this issue?

 

[MissingSpartan7]

Thanks for the fix! Are there any other directories you know of which suffer from this issue?

Just that one for now. But some of the H4 stuff may in future, as more files are added.
It seems to be if a folder has more than 30 items, that occurs.

 

[shedg]

i did an old style MK VI scout build. you just have to make something for the chin and then cover the open area of the helmet with something. it's not a big problem since they won't see that a lot and you can easily adjust that. it will even turn out like in-game since it's closed. just make sure to have a steady head while wearing it, if you have to bondo a lot on the chin it will slide down, i have a soft foam that keeps my head steady, or i think you can just glue a strap similar to real motorcicle helmets.

 

[GenericCola]

i did an old style MK VI scout build. you just have to make something for the chin and then cover the open area of the helmet with something. it's not a big problem since they won't see that a lot and you can easily adjust that. it will even turn out like in-game since it's closed. just make sure to have a steady head while wearing it, if you have to bondo a lot on the chin it will slide down, i have a soft foam that keeps my head steady, or i think you can just glue a strap similar to real motorcycle helmets.

Thanks for the tip-- I'll keep that in mind Right now it looks like we may be doing the Reach variants, but I want to get to each generation, eventually.

 

[shedg]

I'd love to have each generation too but i have no space for an extra armor...surely not 3 more!

 

[Zaff]

I would definitely go with the Reach variants, especially for a first build (plus the Reach scout helmet is a lot cooler in my opinion than the H3/H4 versions). Aside from the database there's also the Reach Assets release thread, which offers 3D models ripped straight for the game. MS7 has been working rather diligently isolating, refining, and converting in-game models to be usable in Pepakura Viewer/Designer. I have a full set of Reach helmets, thanks to MS7, and had already unfolded the Scout, as it's one I plan on building eventually myself (file can be found in the link in my signature). If the files in the database don't appeal to you and you're interested in the game model I could work on unfolding the Recon as well.

 

[Chernobyl]

While I'm swinging by, Zaff - nice work on the Scout unfold, though I'd urge you to re-go at it with all the materials and open edges fixed. I'd be happy to sort that out for you if you're interested

 

[Zaff]

I only have the ability to unfold the models, as I don't have a program to do 3D modelling/editing (and my computer couldn't handle it). I moved a few pieces off the printed area simply because they were clipping through the model, and with the vents, those are easier and more sturdy to do freehand anyway.

 

[Chernobyl]

I only have the ability to unfold the models, as I don't have a program to do 3D modelling/editing (and my computer couldn't handle it). I moved a few pieces off the printed area simply because they were clipping through the model, and with the vents, those are easier and more sturdy to do freehand anyway.

I wasn't referring to the vents. I meant the front of the face (visor area), the neck-seal and the back of the helmet, at the top. Those are easy fixes - go into Blender, load up the model, select all, recalculate the faces and hit 'W' to remove the doubled-up vertices. I can have that work done in five minutes, tops, and I can even duplicate your unfold work at no extra cost

 

[Zaff]

It's something that seems very common among ripped files, specifically the Reach helmets, to have detached (and reversed) areas. It's not as simple as the two sections not being attached to each other but rather that one section is "built" facing out while the other is built facing in. The visor/faceplate, the neck seal, and the crown of the head are all basically built inside-out.

 

[GenericCola]

I would definitely go with the Reach variants, especially for a first build (plus the Reach scout helmet is a lot cooler in my opinion than the H3/H4 versions). Aside from the database there's also the Reach Assets release thread, which offers 3D models ripped straight for the game. MS7 has been working rather diligently isolating, refining, and converting in-game models to be usable in Pepakura Viewer/Designer. I have a full set of Reach helmets, thanks to MS7, and had already unfolded the Scout, as it's one I plan on building eventually myself (file can be found in the link in my signature). If the files in the database don't appeal to you and you're interested in the game model I could work on unfolding the Recon as well.

Thanks, guys, for the input. We have indeed decided to go the Reach route.

I'm having a problem with the file I downloaded, though. The one that seemed to have the most accurate geometry was somehow patterned improperly, and so following the folds actually makes it impossible to assemble correctly. I have a feeling it must have been skewed by my printer, somehow, because there's no reason for the pattern to be skewed by Pep.