Sandbagger's Iron Man builds - Now in STEEL.

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Prototyping some under-armour tech.

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And a photo just because.

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For the under armour tech around the arm and shoulder - a few bits and bobs from around the shed plus a small internal compression spring from Bunnings and a shocky magically appears.

Now to make fifteen more.

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Also bought a fish-weighing scale for fifteen bucks to measure the force on the faceplate hinges. Will help me calculate the strength of motor needed to drive my linear actuator.

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Worked out a rough linear actuator for the faceplate hinges with more junk laying around in the workshop. It works good enough for the bush as they say.

Now to make a prettier, more slim-line one. I can find threads three times as aggressive and thus move the hinge a lot faster but you get the idea.

I've measured the pull on the hinges now and it's around 2.1kg. All I have to do is find a motor small enough, strong enough and fast enough to turn the chosen thread. There's a bit of physics involved trying to work out torque required and the speed needed to pull and push the nut the required travel, but I'm sure a boffin will step forward and assist where my brain chooses to exit the aircraft.

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you've probably already thought of this but if your going to actuate that way make sure you've got some way to lubricate the bolt. I would have to see the mask get stuck half open or something. Your whole build is incredible.
 
amazing!... how many hours have you invested in the build, I can't imagine the effort and ingenuity
;-) keep on shaming the rest of us
 
Thanks for the above you two. ^^^


G'day gang.

I'm sorry I haven't been able to do much on the suit the last few days. I'm just bloody exhausted.

My work shifts and baby duties at home are not very Iron man friendly most of the time. I'll try to get some more done during my break at the end of next week. (If you could call it a break...)

I threw it back together today with all the work so far and took a few motivational shots for your entertainment and my focus.

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That's really cool!

Looks great!

I saw somewhere in this thread that you tried out Servos...
But why don't you have a look at the Metal Gear servos for (i.e.) large scale RC Cars? They are very Strong and quite easy to contol
 
I get to tinker a little bit now and then. It's getting really fiddly now. Now I know everything works and fits, it is time to make it all pretty.

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I took some time this morning to design a better actuator for the faceplate, based on suggestions from my anonymous engineering benefactor. I have the motors now and he has the gears, We have some bench testing to do then fabricate it. This morning he and I fabricated new hinges of aircraft-grade aluminium.

We've done the maths on the torque required under this new system, which equals a much less powerful motor. No gearbox required now.

All we have to do is regulate speed with either a resistor or PCB control. We'll work that out in the bench-testing phase.

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GENIUS!! Thanks to Dan, AKA, "Dakiller" on the Overclockers Australia forum who drew a line on a photo of my circuit board and told me to cut it. Problem solved!!! Arc reactor now powers up and STAYS ON. Touch feature disabled. Done and dusted!

You sir, are a GENIUS! Finding it was so hard, but doing it was so simple!


I know a lot of kids are not going to be disappointed by Iron man's reactor switching off half way through a hospital visit.

So happy!


Baz.

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Shuffled things around a bit. Now I can fit a geared motor under the fan. I gutted the video glasses then set them closer to the faceplate so the centre doesn't hit me on the bridge of my nose any more.

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Help needed SCALING my MK IV Iron man helmet.

I've tried sifting through an overwhelming number of posts here on scaling. I can't make head or tail of any of it. Many of the sticky threads have NO links and lots of garbled code where text should be. I am wondering if I am missing something?

I just downloaded pep designer 3 and found the 2D part where you can change the settings, but have no idea what to input.

Where am I supposed to measure my head from? My head is 59cm in circumference (where a hat brim would sit) and 29cm vertically from chin to top of head. Do I need to measure it from front to back as well?

How does this translate into the settings I need to put into the "Change Pattern Size" dialogue box? (Picture below)

Any help please?

Got help in another thread.

OK, starting again from scratch, this time scaled to fit AND with the edge ID printed on it, to help me align. Now I know which lines represent hill and valley folds, it is soooooo much simpler to assemble correctly instead of GUESSING!


Hey mate,

I know these posts are quite old, but as you and this thread are still active... would you mind telling me/us how you did the scaling or what thread you found it in, if you remember? I'm just about to start my first build, and this is one of the major problems I'm stumbling across.

/edit: dang, I'd need to work on my thesis, but instead I'm kinda absorbing this thread. And I'm only on page 4 :wacko
 
Holy cow! You've made tons of progress since I last checked. My little bro says "duh suit is boss!" I agree with him.

Cheers dude! And little bro dude!

Video:

To provide limits to the faceplate actuation up and down, micro switches provide feedback to the motor.

 
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I just read through all 56 pages. This is amazing. This is exactly what I needed to help me figure out how to motorize my faceplate.

That's what it's all about mate - sharin' the love!

No good keeping all the good ideas secret. This is how cosplay just keeps getting better!!

I owe how far I've got somewhat to my own innovation, but the greater progress has come from standing on the shoulders of giants such as Robo3687, JFCustom and Sharkhead7854, to mention but a few!

SB
 
Trying to make progress anywhere I can while electronics is at a stand-still.

Two years worth of surface flash-rusting vanished in five minutes with the application of POR-15 metal prep, inside and out. Amazing stuff.

Inside accessory tabs welded in to attach battery packs later, then full coat on the inside with POR-15 rust preventative paint.

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