The Offical (and Last) Hidden Blade W.I.P.

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Ok, I first I want to Apologize to the 405th for making So many Hidden Blade Related Topics, But It was spread out across several Identical W.I.P.s dedicated to all the same thing, The Assassins Creed Hidden Blade. Part of that Was that I wanted to express my Ideas to you all, and partly because I've thought a a completely Different method to creating the way and so the previous thread was not relevant...I apologize for my Far too many Threads.

That being said I want to kick this project off with some Knowledge.

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/26763-Slider-Phone-Question
This is a ANOTHER thread I had started asking about the slider phone Mechanism...plus some Comedy..(Its ok HeavyGunner! You handled it well! lol)

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Assassins+creed+Hidden+Blade&aq=f
click on one and it will show many more suggestions on the hidden blade just to show you actually how many people tried this

http://media.photobucket.com/image/H...s/S6301749.jpg
same picture from within the second paragraph

the Assassins Creed 2 Trailer...the hidden blade plus gun

the Hidden Blade I will be replicating...plus an awesome trailer for an awesome game!

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Ok now I will continue onto my W.I.P.
This project started out whilst looking into the hidden blade, I was going to buy the commercial version

(this guy isnt me...he will not respond to my requests on some high resolution pics of the workings...)

I've been able to find some pics since then, to Exotic Automatic.com and you have to sign on to be able to look at the take-apart of the commercial version.

And I'm making 2 blades...mirror versions of each other, thats why the Slider is 9 inches...because each will be actually 4.5 inches. The base will be made out of Aluminum, and will be 10.5 inches long. or Roughly 23 inches (I like room to work, screwups or whatnot)

Day One of the Project:

IMAG0062.jpg

Milled down the Sides and top/bottom with a milling machine from a 1x1x9 piece of stock to a 3/4 by 1 3/8 piece of metal.

Day 2:

IMAG0070.jpg

Slot cut into the "Slider" so it can be made to accept the piece of Conduit piping (For the scabbard, the middle section just after the blade)

IMAG0071.jpg


IMAG0073.jpg

It will be flattened Further with either a torch (thin metal...maybe) or a hammer.

And My trusty Milling Machine..equipped with 80's era CNC Technology..but all I need is the "JOG" Feature. All it has are the X and Y axis's (Forward and backward, side to side)...forget the Z axis (up and down).

I want to do some of the work anyway
IMAG0064-1.jpg
 
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aaggghh you're making my dreams come true! cant wait to see how this turns out!!

Yeah, you and me both!

I'd think it'd be cool if it could extend AND retract

it will, by using a "base" spring on the slider. (it will be a regular tention spring, http://www.springinchina.com/images1/extension-spring-1b.jpg)

The spring will be attached to the back end of the base, and on the back end of the slider, with a release mechanism build into the base of the base. the Locking mech will be spring loaded to always stay up, but once you pull a string then the stopper will move into the base, and allowing the slider to slide forward. But if I do that motion only, then it will just bounce up and down on my arm going inward and outward just from the sheer weigh of the steel, but if you use a downward motion whilst pulling the string to release the slider, then it will have enough inertia to go past the depressed locking mech and go towards the front, and you release the mech, it will pop up behind the slider after it has cleared it...thereby keeping the slider section locked in the "out" postion, putting the spring under stain. once you are done taking a picture, or stabbing a borgia messenger, You pull the string once and briefly and that pulls the loching mechansim into the base, so the slider can move without hassle, but the slider is under the pull the the "base" spring, and will be pulled back into the retracted postion, and as it clears the Locking mech it will once again pop up and lock the slider into position. Ready for its next "Activation"

the only proplems I can find with this are

1: Not enough Torque from the string to the locking mech to fight the strength of the "base" spring. Which would not allow me to retract the blade very easily

2: "Base" Spring will be become stretched over time and will be not usable...so Every 100 or so uses I recommend to replace the very cheap spring..only about a $1.00

These problems are only theory's...I'm just thinking of what Might happen
 
Updates!

Got the Pullys Lathed out...and Surface ground for even height. Now to make the Slider.

(yeah I know, pics or It didn't happen) Just wanted to give everybody a heads up!
 
The mechanism is finished, and it is operational. The blade Isn't obviously finished, that will be the last thing I do.


any questions you have just ask me on here..that way more people will know without clicking through link after link.

Database sorta thing.
 
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Alright...above is the link for My hidden Blade *NOT COMPLETED*

My Question I pose to you people is this...I have the Shoulder Armor made out of cardboard
just to give it shape and to be able to fit it around my Shoulder....

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz249/GHH_02/AssassinsCreedBrotherhoodGroupShot.jpg
looks like that...except for the details.

Now my Question is, What kind of Sculpting clay could I use to apply over the cardboard that Can be sculpted and be rigid enough for you standard costuming usage.

I considered Bondo...but the curing time is very quick and the details would take forever to carve out.

I also considered sculptey...but that has to be baked inside of a oven.
Can you bake cardboard without it catching on fire? I doubt it.

I was considering a Air Dry clay...but how long does it take to cure? could I somehow revive the clay from the hardness (water?) or do I have to work with it quick and sand away at it after it dries.

Another factor is the Rigidity of the piece, I've never worked with resin...but Could I use air-dry clay...then when it cures fully (and once I've carved out the finished product) Could i cover the product with resin? And apply liberal amounts of resin, and fiberglass mat on the inside of the piece?

How thick is the Resin? I mean does it dry thick? or Does it dry thin? Like Modge-podge?

Looking back I have a little more then One Question, haha. Oh well.

Thanks for reading my Question filled rant......!
 
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