Thoughts on Halo Armor for Paintball or Airsoft


rougeoutcast

New Member
Planed on doing the armor for paintball but ditched the whole thing
Been playing Pb for 10yrs and tournaments for 6. The thing to remember is yeah your going to get hit, then theres also the jerk who is going to bonus ball you and shoot you 10+ times because he puts his marker on ramping

Now I've yet to have made a full suit but the last piece of chest armor I had was an epic fail, at least in my opinion so I had decided to sacrifice it in a woodsball game, all my buds that it was Awsome, anyway long story short during the game I thought on the next gen of the armor I'd use for the purpose of playing I would just integrate pieces of thin gauge sheet metal into the more target prone areas, like center mass and the sides/ribs

As for the whole idea of armor and Pb/airsoft I'm for it, but I also understand that most put the safety of others as first priority, so to those guys I say thank you for caring
 

Paul E Morphius

New Member
I've been told recently that EVA foam mats are potentially cancer-causing. I did a bit of research and found out that EVA foam mats are banned in countries like Belgium and France. Perhaps this is something to look into?
 

Tayl0r

Member
I've been told recently that EVA foam mats are potentially cancer-causing. I did a bit of research and found out that EVA foam mats are banned in countries like Belgium and France. Perhaps this is something to look into?

Dang, you serious? I was actually gonna buy some. Mind posting the link?
 
I've been told recently that EVA foam mats are potentially cancer-causing. I did a bit of research and found out that EVA foam mats are banned in countries like Belgium and France. Perhaps this is something to look into?
France bans everything. I would do a little more research before you believe the drivel that they put out.
 

ventrue

Well-Known Member
I've been told recently that EVA foam mats are potentially cancer-causing. I did a bit of research and found out that EVA foam mats are banned in countries like Belgium and France. Perhaps this is something to look into?

It seems like the main issue is formamide residue in some (or most, depending on how much you want to generalise) of those mats. Sources disagree on whether it causes cancer (some say no, some say maybe), but it's mutagenic and toxic to reproduction.

But there's no reason to be surprised. This wouldn't be the first time a plastic toy or plastic product in general has been pulled from the market because some dangerous substance (plasticiser, by-product or raw material of production, etc.) was in it. Quite frankly, I find it inconsequent to worry about a play mat while kiddo is wearing plastic diapers and chewing on a plastic toy from China that stinks to high heaven and is only considered "safe" because nobody bothered to actually test it.
 

FallofReach

New Member
Well I see your discussing the amount of damage it could do. If you could build a suit out of hard plastic (like I'm Doing with Pickle barrel) It would relieve that risk of damage and bounce and still look pretty good.
 

Eled

Jr Member
I was thinking an ODST inspired suit for paintball the other day, made with ballistic nylon might be a good idea. My only problem is where to find the dang stuff.
 

Pack hunter

Jr Member
my thought are that if you're playing airsoft with armor is how you gonna know when ur hit during the adreneline rush of battle, if you're wearing it to wear it do what ya want but if ur wearing it cuz you don't want to get hit by a little plastic bb then why the heck are you playing in the 1st place if you can't take the hit
 

ScenArms

New Member
Hi guys, I'm new to the forums but thought that I'd chime in anyways.

I actually own a paintball business that prototypes/makes custom gun kits and accessories for paintball markers (guns). As a result I do alot, alot, alot of testing of handmade parts that I then make a silicon mold of, and then cast with smooth on plastics. I have been doing this for 4 years now, and have sold a ton of parts that were cast from smooth on stuff for paintball (as well as just started making my own Pep ODST suit that I'm modifying for paintball use when it's finished... and here's what I can tell you from my own exp so far.

For paintball purposes, if you are using 'smooth on' plastic products... use 'task 15'.
I have literally tried almost all of their 'task' series plastics, as well as their 'crystal clear', 'onyx', and a few others. For damage free impacts,... task 15 is the way to go. In areas less than 1/4" it will be pretty flexible however, but once you get to areas where it has 1/4" of it built up it's dang near rock hard.

The wonderful property about task 15 that NONE of the other smooth on products have, is incredibly high textural strength, BUT... it also has some flexural strength as well (though it's not noticeable in thicker pieces).

I've made the exact same parts with task 15 as I have with all of the other smooth on series plastics (and onyx). And task 15 holds up the best for paintball uses. This isn't opinion, this is from actual R&D with the different smooth on plastics over 4 years with paintball parts in games and tests.

I'm making my very first set of armor ever right now thanks to you wonderful people of the 405th. I'm doing my build differently though. I'm not using fiberglass or painting it with resin like everyone else has. I have a junkload of spare smooth on plastics here. I just have the regular pep paper armor pieces that I'm making (I'm not even using cardstock, just regular old used paper). Flipping each part over so that it's 'front' is down on a table... and then pouring about 1 or 2 ounces of task 15 plastic into the back of each paper part at a time. Then when it cures (in about 45 mins) pour some more. Each part has a 1/4" thick layer of task 15 plastic inside of it.

I don't mind the weight, I'm a milsim paintball player, I usually play fully decked out in a ghost recon advanced warfighter looking loadout, it won't be a big difference.

I plan to do the same exact thing for my helmet, layer the entire inside with 1/4" thick task 15, and make the visor out of 3/16's thick 'crystal clear' plastic polymer from smooth on. It will be 100% paintball proof. Heck... even just the chest piece right now without any fiberglass or resin on it (just the layer of task 15 on the backside) can withstand 20 balls per second at 325fps from 3ft away. The helmet will be built in the same way.

I'm going to call some guys I know from another shop tomorrow to see if I can find out how I can send off my odst helmet (when I finish it) to get it approved/tested/.... and also to find out how people might be able to go about getting a lense approved.
 
Hi guys, I'm new to the forums but thought that I'd chime in anyways.

I actually own a paintball business that prototypes/makes custom gun kits and accessories for paintball markers (guns). As a result I do alot, alot, alot of testing of handmade parts that I then make a silicon mold of, and then cast with smooth on plastics. I have been doing this for 4 years now, and have sold a ton of parts that were cast from smooth on stuff for paintball (as well as just started making my own Pep ODST suit that I'm modifying for paintball use when it's finished... and here's what I can tell you from my own exp so far.

For paintball purposes, if you are using 'smooth on' plastic products... use 'task 15'.
I have literally tried almost all of their 'task' series plastics, as well as their 'crystal clear', 'onyx', and a few others. For damage free impacts,... task 15 is the way to go. In areas less than 1/4" it will be pretty flexible however, but once you get to areas where it has 1/4" of it built up it's dang near rock hard.

The wonderful property about task 15 that NONE of the other smooth on products have, is incredibly high textural strength, BUT... it also has some flexural strength as well (though it's not noticeable in thicker pieces).

I've made the exact same parts with task 15 as I have with all of the other smooth on series plastics (and onyx). And task 15 holds up the best for paintball uses. This isn't opinion, this is from actual R&D with the different smooth on plastics over 4 years with paintball parts in games and tests.

I'm making my very first set of armor ever right now thanks to you wonderful people of the 405th. I'm doing my build differently though. I'm not using fiberglass or painting it with resin like everyone else has. I have a junkload of spare smooth on plastics here. I just have the regular pep paper armor pieces that I'm making (I'm not even using cardstock, just regular old used paper). Flipping each part over so that it's 'front' is down on a table... and then pouring about 1 or 2 ounces of task 15 plastic into the back of each paper part at a time. Then when it cures (in about 45 mins) pour some more. Each part has a 1/4" thick layer of task 15 plastic inside of it.

I don't mind the weight, I'm a milsim paintball player, I usually play fully decked out in a ghost recon advanced warfighter looking loadout, it won't be a big difference.

I plan to do the same exact thing for my helmet, layer the entire inside with 1/4" thick task 15, and make the visor out of 3/16's thick 'crystal clear' plastic polymer from smooth on. It will be 100% paintball proof. Heck... even just the chest piece right now without any fiberglass or resin on it (just the layer of task 15 on the backside) can withstand 20 balls per second at 325fps from 3ft away. The helmet will be built in the same way.

I'm going to call some guys I know from another shop tomorrow to see if I can find out how I can send off my odst helmet (when I finish it) to get it approved/tested/.... and also to find out how people might be able to go about getting a lense approved.
You just made my week. Thanks for letting us know what you have found out!

Any chance we could see your GRAW setup? It sounds pretty epic!
 

ScenArms

New Member
Sorry, I read my post again and there was some stuff that I didn't think I really typed out very well, so I'm back for a second chance :)

When I say that task 15 has high impact resistance strength, but also has good flexural (spelling?) strength, I mean that in thick areas it is super strong like most all of the 'task' series from smooth on... but unlike all of the others, in thin areas (around 1/8" thick) it is still strong. 1/8" (though I'd go with closer to 3/16th's) thick areas can even withstand full auto from paintball markers, because it can flex, it's not 100% rigid. The problem is that it is very flexible in the thinner areas, if you don't mind that, then it's all good. THere was another 'task' that I used... I can't remember if it was task 13 or not, I just remember that it cures to an amber color. It also has very high impact resistance... but it is MUCH more flexible than task 15, so even when I would make a buttstock with it that was 1-1/4" thick... it would STILL bend, even at that thickness. Where the 15 turns rock solid with no discernerable bend whatsoever in areas over 1/2" thick. It's the only 'task' series I tried tht was the best mix of rigidity... while still having a tiny bit of flex so it wouldn't shatter when dropped thrown down onto concrete.

And btw... thank you once again for this great forum, and all of the great knowledge that you guys have put into it. THis pepekura stuff takes FOREVER.... but man it's stress relieving. It's like a giant jigsaw puzzle for geeks :)
 
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