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Wiring LEDs in parallel with 5-pin LED on/off switch

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Talk' started by jianjiao, Jan 3, 2018.

  1. jianjiao

    jianjiao New Member

    Hello, first topic in 405th, please be kind.
    BvZwp.png
    I'm creating a costume with some lights and am trying to run 10 LEDS and an on/off button with an LED LED - - IC Chips - Kynix Semiconductor from a 9V battery (so 11 LEDs in total). Due to the fact that it needs to be from a 9V for portability, I've opted to run the 10 individual LEDs in parallels of 2 each, with 100 Ω resistors at the front of each set, and then a 270 Ω resistor at the end of the series in front of the LED button. (Not gonna lie, I had to use the ledcalc website to guide me on how to wire them all up. I'm a novice when it comes to this sort of thing!)

    I would prefer to have the switch at the opposite end of the circuit as the battery, since in the costume the battery pack will be at the top, the lines of 2 leds will be stacked down the middle, and then the button will be at the bottom. But I also know that I can make the wires as long or as short as needed in order to physically place everything where it needs to go so that's not as important. :)

    My confusion/question comes from how to incorporate the on/off LED button into the circuit. I want the light to be off if the circuit isn't powered, but to come on when it is, but I can't have the LED part of the button accidentally complete the circuit. The details on the button say that the LED and the switch are separated, so they can be controlled independently, but I'm not not sure how to physically solder the wires correctly to make it work.

    LED switch
    metal16mmbuttons.jpg
    Does anyone have insight into this 5-prong switch and could guide me on which prongs to attach to which? Thank you!
     
  2. TurboCharizard

    TurboCharizard RMO 405th Regiment Officer

    Basically you have a 1NO1NC switch that is really a SPDT if I'm remembering my electronics correctly. Common and one of either NO or NC will be connected between the battery and the array of LEDs and the battery along with the 270Ω (Adafruit recommended 470Ω for voltages above 6V, you probably have done the math for 9V, just double checking) will form another branch to keep the LED ring around the button lit.

    If you want the LED of the button to activate with a switch throw, battery positive to R6, R6 to button LED anode, LED cathode to C and then your choice of NO or NC to the array.
     
    SI3RRA 117 and PerniciousDuke like this.
  3. AugmentedHuman013

    AugmentedHuman013 RMO 405th Regiment Officer

    I don't mean to sound rude or anything. Just trying to understand the concern. Most LEDs aren't really pulling much power to a real concern for a 9vlt. I commonly use prewired. They come with a resistor already wired on.
     
  4. TurboCharizard

    TurboCharizard RMO 405th Regiment Officer

    Most cosplayers I know use 9V due to the ease of finding rechargeable ones and more importantly the size of the battery itself. Having a 9V with a standard voltage dip to the ~7.2V range as it drains will still be better than the 6V down to ~4V of 4AA batteries. That gap is a bit more important depending on the LED colour (blue and violet are usually a forward voltage around 3.5V) and if you're using pull-up resistors or other devices in the circuit having that range not dip below 4.5V is also kind of important.

    I'm guessing jianjiao is using a 9V so that all the LEDs will be bright and visible in daylight and remain that way for quite some time, I don't know mang, I'm just some hobbyist that likes to tinker.
     
  5. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke RXO 405th Regiment Officer

    Did you get it to work jianjiao ? Those are really cool switches ! I might have to pick up some.


    His concern AugmentedHuman013 wasn't about power draw. It was that he has a switch/light combo which means lots of ports and just wanted to make sure he was wiring the correct ones. My solution would be to touch wires together and see which one goes *poof* and then don't do those ones again.


    Looks like TurboCharizard had it right though a little much jargon for me to follow well. What I see is in that "circuit" picture, bottom right... if you just use the outside + and - that would be the light only and you would connect that to the rest of the lights. Then you would wire the positive line of your light circuit to two of the three middle ones (no, nc, c) which two would depend on how you want the switch to function. (I'm just guessing).
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2018
    SI3RRA 117 likes this.
  6. SI3RRA 117

    SI3RRA 117

    I have a similar switch setup in my MC helm. But I know I wired mine in series because I’m lazy and less wires. Probably not the correct way to do this but it works. Anyway I have it setup so the switch lights ups with the rest of the LEDS. This was some time ago so I don’t remember the wiring for the switch(n) and TurboCharizard that was over my head too.
    Lights on
    . D9184B1E-E66A-4574-B76C-EE40DBBB8C60.jpeg
    Lights off
    4AABE401-5507-458A-9296-4F755DC06450.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2018
    mblackwell1002 likes this.
  7. TurboCharizard

    TurboCharizard RMO 405th Regiment Officer

    I'll go put my computer engineering hat away. Sorry friendos
     
  8. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke RXO 405th Regiment Officer

    Lol. I thought it was great! Someone who knows what those things means probably loved it! ;) don't be ashamed that you're smart.
     

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