Yay another ODST build! Well at least it will be Halo 4's Version

RYNO 666

Well-Known Member
Help!
Sorry for the double post but my phone is being odd...
So I need some advice. I somehow managed a huge blunder I think and I need input. I managed to miss a spot in the first coat of smooth on. Of course I'm making more coats, but do I need to start over?
[url]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s461/CHA0SKN1GHT/Halo%204%20ODST/20140901_224353_zpscyunjwbs.jpg[/URL]
No just keep going it's fine. Make sure you're constantly brushing it as it starts to get gum like. This way you can keep those drips from making thin spots. Also pay close attention to all the undercuts all over your helmet surface that way you can keep the gravity from thinning out those crevices.

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cha0skn1ght

Member
No just keep going it's fine. Make sure you're constantly brushing it as it starts to get gum like. This way you can keep those drips from making thin spots. Also pay close attention to all the undercuts all over your helmet surface that way you can keep the gravity from thinning out those crevices.

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So I ended up taking off that first layer and re-doing it anyways early this morning before work. Thanks for all the tips man. I'm hoping this time it'll be good and I'm going to add 2-3 more coats and the keys then the mother mold this week and hopefully pulling by Friday or Saturday.
Thanks for keeping up with it!
 

Harri51

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
OoOoOoOoOooooo This is gunna be nice. I call bids on a junk one. lmao. Glad to see it is all coming along well for you Chaos. Keep it up man.
 

RYNO 666

Well-Known Member
7a6ymase.jpg
Another layer done and added ridge key
[url]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s461/CHA0SKN1GHT/Halo%204%20ODST/20140904_085957_zpsgqa5zkro.jpg[/URL]
[url]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s461/CHA0SKN1GHT/Halo%204%20ODST/20140904_090002_zpsw7r0lqbd.jpg[/URL]
[url]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s461/CHA0SKN1GHT/Halo%204%20ODST/20140904_090009_zpsdd0ivkrd.jpg[/URL]
A question to those who have done this before. Should the keys be bigger or are they really just there to hold the mother mold in place and assure proper alignment?
They are mainly to keep the cast from warping during the slush. When you make the shell you should definitely make it thick. I use surgical grade bandages and paste wax for where the two halves meet. It's very important that you don't over wet the bandages and make sure your seems are nice and smooth. If you pay good attention to the shell it will help prevent your cast from distortion. The registration keys can help give the mold a nice place to grab on to.

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cha0skn1ght

Member
I'm most likely going to use fiberglass cloth and resin for my mother mold. This guy's videos have been phenomenal
 
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cha0skn1ght

Member
I really like that they didn't need to cut the mold to peel it off the helmet. I haven't played around that much with Rebound 25 but everyone I've watched has cut the mold in half, I really don't want to risk peeling it and it rips. Granted the ODST helmet is pretty smooth and circular with no real pieces jutting out, I guess it's still better to be safe than sorry.
 

RYNO 666

Well-Known Member
I really like that they didn't need to cut the mold to peel it off the helmet. I haven't played around that much with Rebound 25 but everyone I've watched has cut the mold in half, I really don't want to risk peeling it and it rips. Granted the ODST helmet is pretty smooth and circular with no real pieces jutting out, I guess it's still better to be safe than sorry.
Yeah you're right. I had quite a lot of trouble demolding the Mark but my JFO was easy. My mark has a lot of details so it register s better but it is hard to get it out. The JFO is opposite. Gel 25 is extremely elastic and won't rip which is why all I needed was a simple one peice glove mold. And like I said it is fast.

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cha0skn1ght

Member
Yeah you're right. I had quite a lot of trouble demolding the Mark but my JFO was easy. My mark has a lot of details so it register s better but it is hard to get it out. The JFO is opposite. Gel 25 is extremely elastic and won't rip which is why all I needed was a simple one peice glove mold. And like I said it is fast.

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Rebound 25 is pretty quick too. It cures in maybe 1.5 hours - 2 hours and is really sturdy. To be honest, after I took my first layer off (the one where I had missed an area) it didn't feel like it needed any more layers but I'm going to do what's safe until I'm more comfortable with the stuff.
I'm hoping for an easy pull with the ODST.... because next I'm going to be casting the Fotus.
 

RYNO 666

Well-Known Member
Rebound 25 is pretty quick too. It cures in maybe 1.5 hours - 2 hours and is really sturdy. To be honest, after I took my first layer off (the one where I had missed an area) it didn't feel like it needed any more layers but I'm going to do what's safe until I'm more comfortable with the stuff.
I'm hoping for an easy pull with the ODST.... because next I'm going to be casting the Fotus.
That Fotus is going to be a challenge for sure.

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cha0skn1ght

Member
That Fotus is going to be a challenge for sure.

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Yes I know [emoji13]
I'm planning on cutting the horn off and making it reattachable and molding them separately. This will make it easier to ship when I sell them too
 

cha0skn1ght

Member
Ugh so this morning it still hadn't cured. So now I'm looking at taking it all off and redoing this half, or just put more cloth + resin + even more hardener to make it cure.
 

RYNO 666

Well-Known Member
Ugh so this morning it still hadn't cured. So now I'm looking at taking it all off and redoing this half, or just put more cloth + resin + even more hardener to make it cure.
Bummer, was the product new? I had some go bad one time.


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cha0skn1ght

Member
It wasn't brand new but it also wasn't really old and has been kept in room temp storage and sealed so I'm sure that wasn't the case. It is curing, just slowly. When I go to make the next layer, I'll put in extra hardener and it should cure the under layer.
 
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