Props Bayonet For My Br55 New Pics

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gasman7 said:
Is your bayonet a model of the one I have here?
Simular, but mine is a US M7 bayonet.
IMG_2196.jpg
IMG_2197.jpg

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xXBattle RifleXx said:
if it's not to much of an hassle to ask...
but
what color and brand of spraypaint you use?

I sealed the wood with valspar lacquer hi-gloss and the blade is painted with rust-oleum metallic brilliant metal finish. The grip is krylon indoor/outdoor flat black. The blade and all the silver is wiped with the flat black. Then the whole thing is sealed again with the lacquer.
 
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If you don't mind what do you do from A-B. Do you straight carve the wood with wood carving tools or is it crudely carved and then sanded into shape?
 
darthturkey said:
If you don't mind what do you do from A-B. Do you straight carve the wood with wood carving tools or is it crudely carved and then sanded into shape?

I cut the blade to general shape.
Then mark the blade with a pencil and use a sander to get the edges close.
I then use a file to fine tune the edge to what I want.

The gaurd and locking mechanism I use a scroll saw to cut to shape.

The grips I cut to general shape.
Then I use the sander to get closer to the shape I want.
Then I usw a rounded rasp to shape all the rounds.
 
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Ph4de said:
My bayonet would be way to big :p

I would say yours is a pre world war II if its american. I think it is a little to big, but it looks like your bayonet it in excellent condition.
 
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The part where the bayonet connects to the barrel should be back a little further behind the flashhider. If it was a real gun, all the gasses escaping the barrel through the flashhider could damage the bayonet. But seeing as this is a noonfunctioning weapon there is no risk of damaging the gun or the bayonet, you can do whatever you think is coolest. Keep up the good work. :)
 
Spartan 035 said:
The part where the bayonet connects to the barrel should be back a little further behind the flashhider. If it was a real gun, all the gasses escaping the barrel through the flashhider could damage the bayonet. But seeing as this is a non-functioning weapon there is no risk of damaging the gun or the bayonet, you can do whatever you think is coolest. Keep up the good work. :)

I would have to agree...not that it matters...but all that burned gunpowder would corrode a blade eventually...


ps...it's called a flash "supresser"
again..not that it matters
 
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Spartan 035 said:
The part where the bayonet connects to the barrel should be back a little further behind the flashhider. If it was a real gun, all the gasses escaping the barrel through the flashhider could damage the bayonet. But seeing as this is a noonfunctioning weapon there is no risk of damaging the gun or the bayonet, you can do whatever you think is coolest. Keep up the good work. :)


Lord Perth 16 said:
I would have to agree...not that it matters...but all that burned gunpowder would corrode a blade eventually...


ps...it's called a flash "supresser"
again..not that it matters

Thanks for the comments, I like to see different approaches to what I build.

I agree with you both, but you also don't leave a bayonet on all the time. It is only used when your in hand to hand fighting. So its not going to get a lot of shot residue.
 
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Lord Perth 16 said:
ps...it's called a flash "supresser"
again..not that it matters
No, "Flash Hider" is an acceptable term also. You must be thinking of suppressors, commonly referred to (wrongly) as "Silencers".

Good work on the bayonet! Can't wait to see the rest of the gun painted too.
 
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Gooberz said:
No, "Flash Hider" is an acceptable term also. You must be thinking of suppressors, commonly referred to (wrongly) as "Silencers".

Good work on the bayonet! Can't wait to see the rest of the gun painted too.

I think I'd go with muzzle brake since it directs gasses perpendicular to the barrel axis as the bullet exits. Cant see it hiding a flash.

Muzzle Brake at Wikipedia
 
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