Umm hmm way to reput it. Like ok, so I've got a piece made in a pepakura method (fiberglassed and all) that I want to attach to my chest peice. I was considering cutting into my chest right on teh edge of where the piece is going to mount, putting some screen (since im outta fiberglass atm but got some of that on hand) so that its kinda in a loop, half of it going into the chest so that it wraps around to the inside, then the other side going around the outer edge of the part im adding on, then bondoing over that (and detailing the bondo). Rather then just taking the addon and bondoing around the edge and hoping it holds on.
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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Umm hmm way to reput it. Like ok, so I've got a piece made in a pepakura method (fiberglassed and all) that I want to attach to my chest peice. I was considering cutting into my chest right on teh edge of where the piece is going to mount, putting some screen (since im outta fiberglass atm but got some of that on hand) so that its kinda in a loop, half of it going into the chest so that it wraps around to the inside, then the other side going around the outer edge of the part im adding on, then bondoing over that (and detailing the bondo). Rather then just taking the addon and bondoing around the edge and hoping it holds on.
No. Bondo is great for surfaces and dents, too - the important part of what Spitfire said wasn't "corners or edges", it was "where needed". You have a dent you want to fill up? Put Bondo in there. You have no dents to fill? Don't use Bondo.
And when you do use it, do it the right way - use a spatula or scraper or something like that to shape the stuff as best you can while it's still liquid.
Have you tried some strong glue? Epoxy maybe?
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
Just to clarify even more, I ended up using Bondo in inside corners to go from a hard transition to a rounded one. I also used it where two pieces of cardboard were glued to have a smooth transition instead of the hard edge caused by one piece of cardboard being glued on top of another.
As you can see in the following photos, I didn't coat the entire helmet in it, just in area where I wanted the shape to be rounder/smoother than the Pep was.
As you can see in the following photos, I didn't coat the entire helmet in it, just in area where I wanted the shape to be rounder/smoother than the Pep was.
That question is so easy that you really can't avoid the answer if you browse the forums with open eyes. I suggest you do some more reading before you proceed with your project.
Sorry for asking such a simple question
Ive been poking around with very open eyes and i will use a combination of rondo and fibreglass (UK Equivalents)
Just to confirm for the inside, i should use rondo, then fibreglass the inside with about 3 layers, then resin, and then abit more rondo??? or just rondo, then fibreglass, then resin???
There are so many pages to this thread, sorry if I repeat the same question floating around here.
i'm at the resin/fibreglassing stage on my mark VI build, just want some confirmation on this.
1. Buy all PPE + Fibreglass resin + Liquid Hardener
2. Resin Outside (2 layers) - let cure
3. Fiberglass cloth all over the inside then resin or bondo over
4. Cut out the paper visor, use for vacuum forming
5. Bondo outside for detailing and sanding
6. Primer and paint - I'll leave this till I finish pepping the rest of the armor
Not sure whether to resin over paper visor since I'm planning to cut it out, also whats better to use inside the helm I'm working on, resin or bondo?
i'm at the resin/fibreglassing stage on my mark VI build, just want some confirmation on this.
1. Buy all PPE + Fibreglass resin + Liquid Hardener
2. Resin Outside (2 layers) - let cure
3. Fiberglass cloth all over the inside then resin or bondo over
4. Cut out the paper visor, use for vacuum forming
5. Bondo outside for detailing and sanding
6. Primer and paint - I'll leave this till I finish pepping the rest of the armor
Not sure whether to resin over paper visor since I'm planning to cut it out, also whats better to use inside the helm I'm working on, resin or bondo?
I really need help
New Member
Is a military grade gas mask allowed? Is there any chance of the resin disintegrating it? I have an MCU-2A/p and I'd like to not go get a respirator.
DarthLuran
New Member
I've been lurking around for a while but this is my first post... has anybody done anything with bondo-glass? I picked it up after seeing it in the bondo isle. It has a bit thicker consistency than standard bondo, and its green. Anybody have any tips for using this on a pep? Its worked pretty good so far.
There is no set exact order, but you absolutely have to do 1-2 layers of resin on the outside AND inside.
The more I do this, I find it is best to do fiberglass for as much of the inside as you can, but it's very important to lay it down very neatly. It won't fit well into sharp corners or details, which is why I like to do a layer of rondo over it to fill the crevasses, only using the fiberglass to strengthen the big flat parts. It's also key to do at least two layers of fiberglass, the first will be REALLY brittle, and each subsequent one strengthens it. I did two layers of glass and two layers of rondo inside and I can sit on my helmet.
If you want to be super meticulous with smoothing the outside, you can do a thin layer of primer between major bondo layers. Bondo it, primer it, and then sand it... the parts still primered are ones that are dips that need to be filled.
Also, you need the visor to be resinned AND glassed so that it will keep its shape relative to the helmet. If you harden it after you cut it out, there's no way to guarantee it'll fit back in the helmet. It can be a pain cutting it out of the helmet once it's hardened, but it's not that bad.
Edit: Also, rondo is best on the inside, I mix half resin half bondo, then add the appropriate amount of hardener for each (the drops AND the red stuff), It is easy to work with and gives a strong fill in to all the corners and details inside.
That's a weird question... So long as the filters are there and working for these kinds of fumes, mask type doesn't matter. I don't know if you're trolling or not, but if it's "military grade" then some cheap-o over the counter car repair stuff isn't going to do jack squat to it. If that's the one that you are comfortable with, and when you wear it you can't smell the resin, then it's fine.
It's bondo with fiberglass in it. I would not use it on the outside, as the reason to use regular bondo filler is something strong but easily sandable. For the inside I don't like it as much as just using regular fiberglass and rondo. If it replaces anything, it'd be rondo, but it isn't as easy to work with as rondo.
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
Have to disagree with you on a few points here. It is not absolutely necessary to do 1-2 layers of resin both on the inside and outside of a piece. If you used the correct weight of cardstock, 1 layer of resin on the outside should suffice, as it did for me.
Secondly, you also don't have to do at least 2 layers of fiberglass. Remember that fiberglass comes in different thicknesses, so layers are relative anyway. But if you use the packets of fiberglass cloth found in automotive sections of stores (where resin and Bondo are found), then I've found 1 layer to be sufficient. Also, though true that fiberglass cloth might not get into all the crevices on the inside of a piece, if you use enough resin to soak it, it should work plenty fine without using Rondo to fill them. However, I won't deny that it's a good idea if you're not pressed for time and/or money.
I'm just speaking from personal experience, but though my suit "only" has 1 layer of resin and 1 layer of fiberglass, it has held up to several hours of wear out in public. And though I don't think I can sit on my helmet (and I don't want to try!
), I can sit down in my suit, meaning I'm putting my weight on the rear of the codpiece.Just some things to think about, which may help someone realize that they can still create a good, functional suit even if they are not willing or able to have the resources to do multiple layers of hardening.
I said 1-2 because 1 or 2 is fine. I don't see how that's a disagreement. Some people do 1 some do 2. For what it's worth, I'm in the 1 category too, but I've seen it said around here that others do 2 so felt it was worth adding.
My first draft of my helmet I did glass over the entire inside. The ODST helmet has a lot of raised and sunken in parts that required me to cut very very tiny pieces of glass, because I did not want to have bubbles from laying the glass over edges, and it ended up being such a time sink I just used rondo for the details on the second draft, saved me a TON of time. Odd you mention rondo taking more time, as it's a lot faster and easier than fiberglass, since it doesn't need to be cut and layed out, just mixed poured and sloshed.
You bring up good points on the layering. It depends on usage and how much you want to protect it. It'll be faster to do fewer layers, and probably you won't be head butting any doors, so the extra strength won't be needed. I always just err on the side of durability because of the time invested in it, and I intend to have it as a master for molding, I want to be sure it lasts a long time in case I need to recast it, but it is extra work that definitely doesn't have to be done, for sure.
My first draft of my helmet I did glass over the entire inside. The ODST helmet has a lot of raised and sunken in parts that required me to cut very very tiny pieces of glass, because I did not want to have bubbles from laying the glass over edges, and it ended up being such a time sink I just used rondo for the details on the second draft, saved me a TON of time. Odd you mention rondo taking more time, as it's a lot faster and easier than fiberglass, since it doesn't need to be cut and layed out, just mixed poured and sloshed.
You bring up good points on the layering. It depends on usage and how much you want to protect it. It'll be faster to do fewer layers, and probably you won't be head butting any doors, so the extra strength won't be needed. I always just err on the side of durability because of the time invested in it, and I intend to have it as a master for molding, I want to be sure it lasts a long time in case I need to recast it, but it is extra work that definitely doesn't have to be done, for sure.
The uk instructions on the fibreglass resin variant is 2-3cm per 10ml so im assuming its like a paste, so what ratio should i use if i have for example a small round container not that deep fill half with resin? would it be about per cm high of resin use 1/4cm hardener???
Toymakerkarl
New Member
I am going a bit lighter with my second Mk VI build. I have 110# card stock, two layers of resin for the outside, one layer of resin and one layer of Smooth Cast 320 with fiberglass for the inside. I am now experimenting with spray on Tool Grip. The product is for putting a rubber coating on the surface of metal handled hand tools. I have only used this for the inside of the armor pieces. It seems to allow the pieces to flex without cracking, and the rubber coating helps the pieces stay in place while being worn. So far I haven't encountered any problems. I was also looking at truck bed liner, which some builders use for reinforcing their Pep pieces for paintball armor. The fumes are more dangerous with the liner, and the tool grip in the spray can, so use safety precautions with these products.
Yow... The fiberglass resin in the states is like a gel, while the catalyst (hardener) is a liquid. Ours is 10-15 drops per 1oz based on temperature.
The instructions you're mentioning sound more like those for the Bondo Body Filler, which is (in the states) like 1-1.5 inches per golf ball sized glob. Be sure you're using the right stuff.
It depends on your needs. Fiberglass starts out stiff but brittle, and hardens with each progressive layer. I like to do two layers personally, as the weight to strength ratio is best there, it gets too heavy with extra layers. Some people only do one, which will last you at least a few wearings, I can't speak for its long term durability though, as I've been able to snap a piece with only one layer. But it all depends on how strong you want it.
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