War Machine Foam Build- WIP

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Kangabox

Jr Member
Suit's Current State:
148912_10151233078744011_1512395462_n.jpg


Photo Cred: Brent Lavelle, http://lavelle.smugmug.com/
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Hey everyone, figured I'd come out of Lurk Mode and show what I've been working on.

Here's my foam War Machine build so far, using pepakura templates courtesy of TheHeroTutorials.

121_zps9d9697fe.png


The "ammo covers" aren't glued on yet, I'm thinking about putting some hinges on them so they can open and close, the reference pics I've seen show the covers on a hinge.

I'm also planning on mounting 2X Nerf guns inside the Arm Rifles, once I can figure out a mechanism to pull the trigger... without physically pulling it. Currently my hypothetical idea consists of a string attached to a ring.

I have a couple of quick questions:

1. Bondo on EVA foam, will it work, or will it completely disintegrate my foam build? (The type of foam I'm using are Harbor Freight 1/2 inch thick anti-fatigue mats)

2. I stumbled across this whilst browsing around for video equip on amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Activated-Fake-Security-Camera/dp/B000PW4YK0

I'm thinking about stripping the mechanism and putting it into a more stable metal support for WM's minigun, (sensor in the middle of the 6 barrels), the thing is, with all the builds I've seen, the minigun bounces around with every step the wearer takes, so is there any feasible way of stabilizing it?

Any advice would be appreciated! :D
 
Kangabox said:
Hey everyone, figured I'd come out of Lurk Mode and show what I've been working on.

Here's my foam War Machine build so far, using pepakura templates courtesy of TheHeroTutorials.

IMAG0190.jpg


The "ammo covers" aren't glued on yet, I'm thinking about putting some hinges on them so they can open and close, the reference pics I've seen show the covers on a hinge.

I'm also planning on mounting 2X Nerf guns inside the Arm Rifles, once I can figure out a mechanism to pull the trigger... without physically pulling it. Currently my hypothetical idea consists of a string attached to a ring.

I have a couple of quick questions:

1. Bondo on EVA foam, will it work, or will it completely disintegrate my foam build? (The type of foam I'm using are Harbor Freight 1/2 inch thick anti-fatigue mats)

2. I stumbled across this whilst browsing around for video equip on amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Activated-Fake-Security-Camera/dp/B000PW4YK0

I'm thinking about stripping the mechanism and putting it into a more stable metal support for WM's minigun, (sensor in the middle of the 6 barrels), the thing is, with all the builds I've seen, the minigun bounces around with every step the wearer takes, so is there any feasible way of stabilizing it?

Any advice would be appreciated! :D
Click to expand...

Great work so far! looks awesome!

As for using bondo on foam i would not recommend it at all for the purpose of using foam is to get all your detail into the pieces and still have the flexiblity of it where as bondo on foam will most likely crack and chip from the flexing of the foam. To add small details you can use craft foam in 2-3mm sheets or rolls from a craft store or add detail with a rotary tool and then put light coats of plastidip over the top to seal it and still maintain the flexibility of your armor. But all in all def dont want to use bondo with foam for it is mainly used with pep and glass method for adding detail to it.
 
Gotcha, thanks for the heads up.

I was considering plastidip to secure it afterwards, but from lurking around these threads, it seems like it's very toxic and doesn't settle in the cracks of a foam build too well. Also the shininess that it gives off after curing concerns me a bit, as the paint scheme for most of War Machine isn't exactly glossy XD

I was looking at either foam coat or flexbond, can't determine which one is better tho.
 
Hey man nice work so far there. Being one of the forums main foam armour crafters (by no means the best, roxyroo and liltyrants builds are jaw dropping, just to mention a few, there are lots of amazing foam builds appearing now) I would like to say that we use the plastidip as an undercoat not really as our final finish. Reason being is that there isn't anything better that I am aware of to seal your foam and give a good base for any paint you then choose to finish your piece with. If there is another rubber based paint that gives the same results cheaper then some one hit me up with the details :). Plastidip is good for 2 reasons. 1. It seals your foam and due to its viscosity will fill any unwanted small nicks/marks. 2. It's the perfect base for your final paint as it isn't easy to peal off. When I was doing my battle damage it was kinda annoying how well it did cling to the foam but that's not a complaint. Have you checked out this Build? I am sure Drgnfynre4 will be able to give advice on his build if needed.

Yes as you said it is toxic so that is an issue if you don't have any where to use it safely but there is always a way.

Lastly I am not sure why the shiny aspect is a problem for you as warmachine (before he takes a beating) is shiny. If you want the battle damaged effect then that is down to painting scuffs,marks and dents after you base coat.

What ever path you choose I am sure the suit will be great. Keep up the good work.
 
Now that is a pretty awesome build. I'll be dropping in there in a sec... :D

Are you referring to the non-spray version of plastidip? And the using plastidip as an undercoat sounds like a more understandable approach, (visual wise, it makes sense as well, as the base MKII suit is chrome XD)

So use plastidip, coat with chrome paint, finish off with foam coat + black paint mixture?
 
Yeah I used the paint not sprey plastidip because the sprey is far too expensive in the UK. I used chrome sprey for my ironman mask and it looked really metallic. I did how ever use the incorrect lacquer to dull it as I wanted to stay true to the chartoon style picture I was using. Once I get my Halo MK VI finished will get back on my custom Ironman.

The steps you mentioned sounds perfect. I didn't think of the foam coat + black mix that sounds like a really good idea. You can increase the black mix for shading in the crevasses. Am gunna look into the technique now for the shading on my Ironman suit :)
 
Ok, this update was loooonnnggg overdue.

But War Machine is still alive, just experimenting more with Bondo'ing and LCDs recently and other whatnots.

Plus I probably have to paint the entire thing Red White and Blue now due to IM3... XD

Regardless, chest is done, needs dremel detail, back, arms, abs, legs, thighs, hands, F2000s, Cod Piece, Helmet to go. With a few pep'd up pieces to throw into the mix, like the (Bicep joint guard?)

Magpul'd SCAR-L for eye candy.

War_zpsa0df0199.png
 
This is a good looking build so far buddy!

I had an idea for your minigun problem, I started thinking about it when I was building my warmachine.
Ive noticed DIY shops sometimes sell plastic back supports for workers lifting heavy objects you could get one of these to use as a base plate for the guns mount or make your own.


Now wear this under the armour and build the minigun mount out of say aluminium and bolt it through the back if the torso into the wearable strap, theory being because both parts are solid and attached to something stable it shouldn't 'bounce' about.
As for the gun you could use a sprung mechanical quick release lock to hold it in the upright and firing positions securely.

I hope this helps a bit,
Good luck, it's all looking good so far
 
DBmike said:
This is a good looking build so far buddy!

I had an idea for your minigun problem, I started thinking about it when I was building my warmachine.
Ive noticed DIY shops sometimes sell plastic back supports for workers lifting heavy objects you could get one of these to use as a base plate for the guns mount or make your own.


Now wear this under the armour and build the minigun mount out of say aluminium and bolt it through the back if the torso into the wearable strap, theory being because both parts are solid and attached to something stable it shouldn't 'bounce' about.
As for the gun you could use a sprung mechanical quick release lock to hold it in the upright and firing positions securely.

I hope this helps a bit,
Good luck, it's all looking good so far
Click to expand...

That is a most excellent idea. My original plan was to ransack an ALICE frame from a military backpack, and try to work from there, the problem being that well... ALICE frames are pretty darn huge.

I'll see what I can find.
 
You could also make your own by moulding some thick plastic to your back (shoulder area) but you'd have to make a cast of that part of your back first because you'd need to heat up the plastic for it to take shape.
 
Football as in Rugby? Haha only kidding I know what you mean. I guess so but aren't they a little big to fit under some armour?
 
Most likely. It looks like there's a surprising amount of space for a circuit board in the back of the helmet.

First things first tho, once I get it bondo'd and detailed, I'm going rig it up with LEDs, add a hinge, and work from there.
 
It looks like there's a surprising amount of space for a circuit board in the back of the helmet.
Click to expand...

Looks good!
you may find the servo control board is pretty big and you might need to fit it into the chest and have a wire running to the helmet or do it wireless, check out http://youtu.be/qQU6xxdqR3Y this will give you the info you need to know :)

Keep it up man, i'm really impressed with this build so far
 
Interesting bit of trivia I couldn't help but notice whilst working on WM's legs, it seems like the legs for.... well... all the suits, except the bulky MK1, have legs that looks like they were inspired by Gundam legs. No particular Gundam in particular, I just pulled up Exia as reference.

EDIT: (Actually, Heavyarms might have been a more appropriate reference... heh heh.)

GundamStyle.jpg
 
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