Recent content by blue2k

http://www.4shared.com/file/TnG-8qz8ba/back_unfold_hirgon.html?

I have some images of Terrys armour from the original movie. I also have a link to a real Terry English armour (he still makes those btw). http://colonialmarines.co.uk/gallery/terry-english-colonial-marine-armour

If you open a model and it seems to take a really long time to load, then the program is eating all your available memory to display the model. This means the unfold will be massive, and complicated. Just make your model, and try it. If it takes a really long time, reduce some of the detail etc.

I suppose if the model is a bit "high poly" then Pepakura designer might lag, or have a problem opening it, but apart from that? Any method should be fine.

It will show you a list of usable formats that Pepakura designer will accept if you select "open". Can you clarify what you mean by "a certain way"?

Before you decide which route to go, have you heard of FlexFoam-iT 25?. You may be able to get an idea of how a foam weapon works. http://www.smooth-on.com/gallery.php?galleryid=084

Foam weapons cost literally buttons to make, unless you cast them and use a self skinning foam. That can be slightly more expensive. If you have a 3D model of the weapons you'd like to use, then these can be exported to pepakura designer, and once scaled appropriately, can be used as templates...

Why not have foam weapons for distance shots, and use another casting material for weapons that need to be shown up close? It is common practice in the movie industry to have heroe weapons for the up close shots, and stunt weapons for the action shots.

Unless you can carve wood, I would not recommend wood as a suitable material to make a suit. Even if you used thin MDF, it would lack the ability to curve into the correct shapes to make the suit parts (unless the suit parts were very boxy). The only other alternatives I can think of for Pep...

I actually replied to that thread back in the day, anyway, here are all the files you need. http://www.4shared.com/file/SmuibXdj/chest_unfold_h1rg0n.html http://www.4shared.com/file/ky92tBVT/chest_unfold_h1rg0nb.html http://www.4shared.com/file/RN_l1Re2/h1rg0n-Nobody_cod_piece.html...

Also bear in mind, that some solvents in spray paints will destroy the adhesion in lower quality painters tapes (like masking tape). The paint will seep under the masked area.

I've always used hot glue to provide extra strength on the seams inside a piece. You can use nothing but hot glue if you like. However, I find contact adhesive is far superior for joining parts together. Just cover both edges in a thin coat, wait a few minutes, then wrestle the parts together...

Superglue? I use evo stik impact adhesive. You can get a good sized tube for about 5/6 quid. I goes a long way if you squeeze a drop onto your fingertip and run it along the edge of the seam. It also allows for minor adjustment before it cures.

Well, for a War Machine build, I would use a combination of 6mm and 10mm. The reason being, is that there are several recessed areas or raised points. Using the two thicknesses of foam will give you the illusion of depth. You can always "double layer" the thicker parts with an additional layer...

The thinner it is, the easier it is to cut, and shape. 6mm sounds useful, 10mm may be too thick. It would depend on the helmet type, and also what finishing material you were going to use on it I suppose.