1st Build. Halo Reach Air Assault build, 3D printed.

[Space Fox 1]

I am using a steel nozzle. When my printer is sitting idle warming the enclosure bits of abs melt and kind of extrude out. I just need to remove it before the actual print starts. I'm printing at 245 nozzle and 100 bed. My prints start out great and then fail after about an hour. They are detaching from the bed and getting all spagetti-y. I wonder if the pseudo extruded ABS is making the filament available for printing thinner so that the first layer is not full thickness and therefore not adhering to the plate?

It could potentially be a partial clog. I’d give your hotend a good clean out just in case using either a cold pull and nylon plus acupuncture needle or if that fails a combo of heat gun acetone and/or blow torch amd wire brushes, make sure to get the fine particles. For bed adhesion if you have a glass bed hairspray works wonders. you can also get a pei sheet off Amazon for fairly cheap which also adheres well. Lastly check your bed level at 100C. Your bed will expand at 100C from 20C so it messes with your level and can make things much tighter, I would try and level at 100C to make things nice and even and get a full filament path.

I assume you're using brass nozzles, have you considered upgrading? Steel nozzles might be worth looking at and investing in. A little while ago I bought a couple of copper nozzles plated with nickel which supposedly are a good balance between the quick heating of brass and the durability of steel, though so far I haven't had a chance to test them.

I am actually switching to an all metal hotend in the near future. This is more important than a nozzle upgrade as a ptfe tube can cook and release toxic fumes at the temperatures that abs prints at and will eventually fail. I believe the model I am looking at comes with a steel nozzle as standard though I would have to check. I am moving to the Biqu H2 hotend kit but the E3D Hemera and micro Swiss all metal hotend are both excellent as well.

 

[Space Fox 1]

Update: so the abs prints failed and the nozzle kept clogging. I went to re-level the bed as I noticed when heated up it ran too hot. Noticed that the right gantry was uneven no matter what and was way too tight. Broke down and reassembled the printer and still at 80C on the bed and 270 on the nozzle the bed was uneven. At this point I decided that for a successful print at higher temperatures on a cr-10 and for stability that a dual z axis was necessary and I highly recommend it for anyone using an og cr-10. Finally I had to take a look at my enclosure and the way it was built. Apparently the stock creality zip up enclosures are cursed and I took a long and in depth look at the way it was made and what it does/works. After some board modification and it frying my board I decided to retire it and go open frame again. This and the fact that I have seen it fail a prusa Mk3 (impressive for any part) justified my decision further. The danger and difficulty of abs as well as the melting point convinced me, the CR-10 just isn’t the right printer for abs. It could be with heavy modifications but really it would not be be worth the cost. So I am officially moving to petg. I have torn my printer apart and have both a dual z and a new board incoming. I will be printing new printer parts in petg before moving on to the handplates and shoulders again. Sorry for the long post but hope someone found it helpful. TLDR do not buy the creality enclosure it is a waste of money and would be better served elsewhere, petg is the move for the cr-10