3D Printable Helmet and Armor Files

SI3RRA 117

Well-Known Member
Awesome, I've got it smoothed out now, I am though having trouble cutting and arranging. I guess not an intuitive as I would have guessed.
I use meshmixer and the plane cut tool I think it works well. I don’t remember what they are but you have to have the options set right to have it cut correctly to keeep the pieces and create new faces on the cut
 
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AgentPaxton

New Member
I use meshmixer and the plane cut tool I think it works well. I don’t remember what they are but you have to have the options set right to have it cut correctly to keeep the pieces and create new faces on the cut
I've looked up a couple tutorials but I am unable to figure out how to create those new faces.

EDIT: It's actually working properly but it doesn't seem to want to add in those new faces. I mess around with the positioning it'll add them, just to places that aren't useful to me.
 
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SI3RRA 117

Well-Known Member
I've looked up a couple tutorials but I am unable to figure out how to create those new faces.

EDIT: It's actually working properly but it doesn't seem to want to add in those new faces. I mess around with the positioning it'll add them, just to places that aren't useful to me.
if meshmixer isn’t working for you I’ve also split models in windows 3d builder. mblackwell1002 likes to use nettfab, might be able to try that
 

SI3RRA 117

Well-Known Member
I got some advice from the person who was going to print them, apparently, they weren't solid, I guess.
AgentPaxton If your doing the deadeye Chest and talking about the back sides of the armor being open? This was done for a reason - this creates an armor similar to pep allowing you to put electronics and padding on the inside of the armor. I do all of my armor like this. Saves on weight and plastic and allows prints with no infill too.
 
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TheThinker

New Member
Wait...so around how much filament would you need for each of these pieces? I'm trying to print the CIO forearm, the Deadeye helmet and the FOTUS/Deadeye chest and I'm stumped on budget.
 

SI3RRA 117

Well-Known Member
Wait...so around how much filament would you need for each of these pieces? I'm trying to print the CIO forearm, the Deadeye helmet and the FOTUS/Deadeye chest and I'm stumped on budget.
Usually a helmet is a 1kg roll a chest is around 2 rolls and I think the forearms and such are maybe around a roll or so for both. These are just estimates as I printed these for 4’6” kids so I’m just increasing the amounts a bit. Sorry for the late reply.
 

Lieutenant Jaku

Well-Known Member
Checking in with a Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.1. Haven't leveled it in a month. Only cleared the bed with isopropyl a handful of times in the last year.
Wanahao and monoprice are actually the same I think just the Asian one and the American one. I believe I may have essentially the same one as you.
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Wanahao and monoprice are actually the same I think just the Asian one and the American one. I believe I may have essentially the same one as you.
Yep, a few different labels and maybe some different screws but overall the same machine. They're tanks and are dead easy to rip apart and repair when it's required (rarely).
 

SI3RRA 117

Well-Known Member
Ya I dont know those headaches. My cube 3 has auto level and auto gap adjustment. But has a whole bunch of it’s own problems. Can’t complain too much I suppos tho, its gotten me this far and still kickin
 

sgtjasonshrout

New Member
You've probably been questioned a lot about where or how you managed to get that gold onto your Dead Eye visor. I'm really hoping that it is a process that you came up with that you wouldn't mind sharing here. :)
 

Kusak3

Active Member
Yep, a few different labels and maybe some different screws but overall the same machine. They're tanks and are dead easy to rip apart and repair when it's required (rarely).
Yup same machine. Not a bad machined as long as you remember to promptly put the mosfet upgrade in for your hot bed. I havent done a full up leveling on mine in months. when I start a print I keep an eye on it sometimes I have to do a bit of on the fly tweaking to get a good extrusion but I have printed so much that I recognize when things are right at a glance.

Mine has been so heavily modified it isnt exactly stock anymore. All metal hot end from micro swiss. all metal feed assembly from micro swiss. heated glass bed instead of build tack. Also the original board has long since burned out because I didnt do the mosfet update so I am actually running ramps on mine. Also got a better quality power supply. Added all of the structural upgrades to make the frame more rigid. so on so forth. Ohhh and slicing software is simplify 3d which makes a world of difference over cura. Simplify has the optimal printer sets for the monoprice in their inventory.

Every printer has its hiccups when you come down to it. I run two different printers I have the monoprice/wanhaoo v2 And I also have a hictop d11. Both are basically pure up prussia knock off's The auto level on the hictop has terrible reviews needing to be re calibrated itself about every couple of prints. So I didnt even add that upgrade to mine and stayed with the try and true self level. 3D printing has come a long way but it is still very much a tinkers art. you are going to spend a lot of time fussing with your printers if you are actually going to use them. I myself actually keep a drawer of basic spare parts for both of mine. Those parts are all the pieces to rebuild the hot end overall. As well as a handfull of spare extruder gears.

Both of my printers have long since had there hot ends replaced due to usage. And hot ends fail. In particular the nozzle and feed tube that connects to it. If your leveling is wrong the rubbing of the nozzle against the build plate will damage the nozzle over time. Which affects print quality and eventually cause it to fail. Eventually the teflon tube in most feed tubes will break down and then the feed tuble will fail. So in my perspective I run a nozzle and feed tube till they start to show issues and or jam up and then I spend the hour to just simply replace them both. They are inexpensive parts and its my time is precious much easier to switch them out then to spend hours fussing with them and or loosing prints due to feed issues.
 
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