3D Printable Helmet and Armor Files

Discussion in 'Halo 3D Modeling' started by SI3RRA 117, Mar 12, 2017.

  1. Lieutenant Jaku

    Lieutenant Jaku Well-Known Member

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    Only if it's auto leveling (usually)! My printer (not auto leveling) needs to be recalibrated every other print
     
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  2. mblackwell1002

    mblackwell1002 Well-Known Member

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    I'm in the same boat, but i don't have to level it that often. Only every week or two. What's your printer?
     
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  3. Lieutenant Jaku

    Lieutenant Jaku Well-Known Member

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    Monoprice maker select 2 basically a prusa i3
     
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  4. TurboCharizard

    TurboCharizard RMO & BCO 405th Regiment Officer Community Staff

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    Checking in with a Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.1. Haven't leveled it in a month. Only cleared the bed with isopropyl a handful of times in the last year.
     
  5. Lieutenant Jaku

    Lieutenant Jaku Well-Known Member

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    Wanahao and monoprice are actually the same I think just the Asian one and the American one. I believe I may have essentially the same one as you.
     
  6. TurboCharizard

    TurboCharizard RMO & BCO 405th Regiment Officer Community Staff

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    Yep, a few different labels and maybe some different screws but overall the same machine. They're tanks and are dead easy to rip apart and repair when it's required (rarely).
     
  7. SI3RRA 117

    SI3RRA 117 Well-Known Member

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    Ya I dont know those headaches. My cube 3 has auto level and auto gap adjustment. But has a whole bunch of it’s own problems. Can’t complain too much I suppos tho, its gotten me this far and still kickin
     
  8. sgtjasonshrout

    sgtjasonshrout New Member

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    You've probably been questioned a lot about where or how you managed to get that gold onto your Dead Eye visor. I'm really hoping that it is a process that you came up with that you wouldn't mind sharing here. :)
     
  9. SI3RRA 117

    SI3RRA 117 Well-Known Member

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  10. Kusak3

    Kusak3 Member

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    Yup same machine. Not a bad machined as long as you remember to promptly put the mosfet upgrade in for your hot bed. I havent done a full up leveling on mine in months. when I start a print I keep an eye on it sometimes I have to do a bit of on the fly tweaking to get a good extrusion but I have printed so much that I recognize when things are right at a glance.

    Mine has been so heavily modified it isnt exactly stock anymore. All metal hot end from micro swiss. all metal feed assembly from micro swiss. heated glass bed instead of build tack. Also the original board has long since burned out because I didnt do the mosfet update so I am actually running ramps on mine. Also got a better quality power supply. Added all of the structural upgrades to make the frame more rigid. so on so forth. Ohhh and slicing software is simplify 3d which makes a world of difference over cura. Simplify has the optimal printer sets for the monoprice in their inventory.

    Every printer has its hiccups when you come down to it. I run two different printers I have the monoprice/wanhaoo v2 And I also have a hictop d11. Both are basically pure up prussia knock off's The auto level on the hictop has terrible reviews needing to be re calibrated itself about every couple of prints. So I didnt even add that upgrade to mine and stayed with the try and true self level. 3D printing has come a long way but it is still very much a tinkers art. you are going to spend a lot of time fussing with your printers if you are actually going to use them. I myself actually keep a drawer of basic spare parts for both of mine. Those parts are all the pieces to rebuild the hot end overall. As well as a handfull of spare extruder gears.

    Both of my printers have long since had there hot ends replaced due to usage. And hot ends fail. In particular the nozzle and feed tube that connects to it. If your leveling is wrong the rubbing of the nozzle against the build plate will damage the nozzle over time. Which affects print quality and eventually cause it to fail. Eventually the teflon tube in most feed tubes will break down and then the feed tuble will fail. So in my perspective I run a nozzle and feed tube till they start to show issues and or jam up and then I spend the hour to just simply replace them both. They are inexpensive parts and its my time is precious much easier to switch them out then to spend hours fussing with them and or loosing prints due to feed issues.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2018
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  11. TurboCharizard

    TurboCharizard RMO & BCO 405th Regiment Officer Community Staff

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    I buy four packs of brass nozzles and have a length of PFTE tubing for the same reason. Once extrusion gets sloppy and stringy its easier to rip out the nozzle and attempt to clean it than to play the game of "how long is it until this clogs"
     
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  12. mouthfullocrabs

    mouthfullocrabs New Member

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    The file looks great printing it in a whole peice right now update in seven days lol. Did you model this? If so I will pay you to finish the whole wetworks set.
     
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  13. SI3RRA 117

    SI3RRA 117 Well-Known Member

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    THe wetwork helmet was cleaned up and made printable by mblackwell1002. He did a great job on it. I’m looking to print this helmet in he near future as well. I have to get my hands on my new printer first tho. Look forward to seeing your print!!
     

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