About The Fiberglass Resin...

Status
Not open for further replies.

Spartan 101

New Member
It might seem trivial, but I noticed that when you use the resin on a paper that doesn't absorb it (paper covered with permenant water-proof marker) it holds up way much better than having the bare paper absorb part of the resin.

I also noticed that the remaining resin in the mixing bowl hardens much faster and sturdier than the one painted on the piece.

so I'm planning on having my peps painted with something before resining that will wet-proof the paper (the one I covered with a permenant colored marker was resined with a thick layer from outside and is still dry from the inside).

I'm considering spray paint, but do I have to use a specific type?

Please tell me if you know of any ways especially if you've done it before.

thanks.
 
oh well hello there !! haha good to see someone thinking along the same lines as i am ;) i'm actually conducting an experiment with regards to that as i type this response =D. i went out and bought a can of krylon's "triple thick crystal clear glaze" and sprayed about 4 layers on an old size tester of mine, and then slapped some resin over top of the sprayed half and am currently waiting for it to dry (it was bloody humid here so the resin is taking for EVER to dry :(... though at least the part that has the resin on it is now pretty much water proof hahaha).



i have heard that the resin might not fully dry if you use a spray on glaze first, but i don't know how much i believe in that. i will let you know how my experiment turns out =D but as it stands i think the whole "spray a layer or two of sealer or whatnot before resining" approach is going to work out wonderfully.
 
Outlaw-Tiger said:
i went out and bought a can of krylon's "triple thick crystal clear glaze"



I have some of this. I mentioned it in my WIP which I updated yesterday with a lot of questions I want answered...anyway... I was also thinking of spraying polyurethane. Perhaps even multiple coats of just the resin would help?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Outlaw-Tiger said:
i will let you know how my experiment turns out =D but as it stands i think the whole "spray a layer or two of sealer or whatnot before resining" approach is going to work out wonderfully.



great! let me know as soon as you're done, right now I'm about to start my own experiment. I panted the inside of a shin piece with normal paint used with wood,metal,etc. I'm not sure if this would do the trick but I'll be resining it when it dries.



and I do think the multi layer resin could work butif this method works it might prove more practical since the resin cures faseter when thicker, I kept noticing that all the time.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Outlaw-Tiger said:
oh well hello there !! haha good to see someone thinking along the same lines as i am ;) i'm actually conducting an experiment with regards to that as i type this response =D. i went out and bought a can of krylon's "triple thick crystal clear glaze" and sprayed about 4 layers on an old size tester of mine, and then slapped some resin over top of the sprayed half and am currently waiting for it to dry (it was bloody humid here so the resin is taking for EVER to dry :( ... though at least the part that has the resin on it is now pretty much water proof hahaha).



i have heard that the resin might not fully dry if you use a spray on glaze first, but i don't know how much i believe in that. i will let you know how my experiment turns out =D but as it stands i think the whole "spray a layer or two of sealer or whatnot before resining" approach is going to work out wonderfully.





Where did you get that armor update pic from that shows your armor progress?

/
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This sounds good, until you need to sand down something into the fiber glass and you get exposed paper...
 
This sounds good, until you need to sand down something into the fiber glass and you get exposed paper...
 
The resin dries due to a chemical reaction, and heat is part of that reaction. The thicker the resin the faster it dries as it can generate more heat to cure.
 
if I apply heat with a hair dryer will that help??

and when do I apply the heat?



and if this helps is there any suggested methods to use to heat the piece up?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top