Alternatives To Using Fiberglass And Resin

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Loderian

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This thread is a repost of a prior reply I made in another thread, but deams its own thread in the noob section. If most noobs can figure out Pepakura, what makes you think they can handle resin and fiberglass construction?


The follwing are alternatives i have found either through my own use, or suggestion from fellow cosplayers. All of these are cheap, work very well, and don't require a respirator like the fiberglass and resin methods.

CosplaySupplies.com -- Wonder Flex

For those that dont know what wonderflex is, it is along the lines of plastic.

Wonderflex is a felt like material that has all the characteristics of felt fabric, but when heated past a certain point, special chemicals release, and upon cooling, harden into stiff plastic. It also bonds to itself during the heating stage which is good for smooth seamless armor.

A massive role of wonderflex (Wondeflex Jumbo Sheet 40" x 55" / 101 cm by 139 cm) costs $55. I love this site, its where i've gotten stuff for all anime related cosplays.

Wonderflex used to recommend a heat gun, and thats what i used for a while, but now, the kind i linked to says it can be done in a microwave, or in hot water.

Similar product: CosplaySupplies.com -- Friendly Plastic

"Drop these white pellets into warm water for just a few seconds to melt. Friendly Plastic® pellets are completely reusable. If you don't like how the shape turned out, simply re-soften and start over. Useful for coating and smoothing Wonderflex."

It works best for making wonderflex seamless, but if you really want, you could make a pepakura mold of the helm or what not, and pour the melted pellets into it, to use the (card stock) paper as a negative mold. Use sand paper or a hot rag to soften the plastic and smooth it.


Plasti Dip

A spray on synthetic rubber material that can withstand up to negative 30 degrees F, and over 200 degrees F before cracking or warping. It resists tearing and comes in a spray and paint.

I suggest both spray and paint. Start off with 3 layers of the paint to make smooth surfaces, then do sprays more perfectly even coats. Spraying at the beginning may allow for dimples or seams to show through.

It can be found at menards or ace hardware. To give an idea of how durable it is, i was introduced to this by a friend that used it to make a batman chest piece, and after 5 or so layers of the paint style, while he was wearing it, i was able to punch it with good force, and not warp it. I'll try to upload the batman pic.
 
Loderian said:
This thread is a repost of a prior reply I made in another thread, but deams its own thread in the noob section. If most noobs can figure out Pepakura, what makes you think they can handle resin and fiberglass construction?
The follwing are alternatives i have found either through my own use, or suggestion from fellow cosplayers. All of these are cheap, work very well, and don't require a respirator like the fiberglass and resin methods.

CosplaySupplies.com -- Wonder Flex

For those that dont know what wonderflex is, it is along the lines of plastic.

Wonderflex is a felt like material that has all the characteristics of felt fabric, but when heated past a certain point, special chemicals release, and upon cooling, harden into stiff plastic. It also bonds to itself during the heating stage which is good for smooth seamless armor.

A massive role of wonderflex (Wondeflex Jumbo Sheet 40" x 55" / 101 cm by 139 cm) costs $55. I love this site, its where i've gotten stuff for all anime related cosplays, and its what im using for my armor.
Similar product: CosplaySupplies.com -- Friendly Plastic

"Drop these white pellets into warm water for just a few seconds to melt. Friendly Plastic® pellets are completely reusable. If you don't like how the shape turned out, simply re-soften and start over. Useful for coating and smoothing Wonderflex."

It works best for making wonderflex seamless, but if you really want, you could make a pepakura mold of the helm or what not, and pour the melted pellets into it, to use the (card stock) paper as a negative mold. Use sand paper or a hot rag to soften the plastic and smooth it.
Plasti Dip

A spray on synthetic rubber material that can withstand up to negative 30 degrees F, and over 200 degrees F before cracking or warping. It resists tearing and comes in a spray and paint.

I suggest both spray and paint. Start off with 3 layers of the paint to make smooth surfaces, then do sprays more perfectly even coats. Spraying at the beginning may allow for dimples or seams to show through.

It can be found at menards or ace hardware. To give an idea of how durable it is, i was introduced to this by a friend that used it to make a batman chest piece, and after 5 or so layers of the paint style, while he was wearing it, i was able to punch it with good force, and not warp it. I'll try to upload the batman pic.

OK.

Wonderflex - what do you use to heat it beyond a certain point? A hardener? or the stove?

Friendly Pellets - might come in handy.

Plasti Dip - Been mentioned many times before.

You also failed to mention aqua resin (a non toxic alternative to resin/fiberglass) that has been discussed before. Thanks for bringing these to our attention as I'm sure some members might be interested.
 
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tlither said:
Wonderflex - what do you use to heat it beyond a certain point? A hardener? or the stove?

Sorry, i'll be sure to edit some of those. Wonderflex used to recommend a heat gun, and thats what i used for a while, but now, the kind i linked to says it can be done in a microwave, or in hot water.

As for that point, i have no suggested temperature for heating, simply because i merely played around with my heat gun and just found a suitable setting. I have never attempted a stove, but i also have never used it for something as large as the halo chest piece before.
 
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This is all cool, but im pretty sure this has been gone true when this site has been building up.
The reason why pepakura is so popular here, is because it's VERY accurate. As with your products, you need more skill to build that stuff.

But for detailed halo armor, Clay molding and Pepakura are the best, if they wherent this site wouldnt be so excited about them.

-FSS
 
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