Aztlan's Halo 4 Rogue + Binary Rifle + M6H + Exo-suit WIP, PIC HEAVY!

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by EVAkura, Dec 8, 2013.



    AHHHHH i see the method i use at work!!!! The foamies really help dont they? This is looking amazing, a need to get beck to my helmet, as i am still doing research for what i am going to cast in with my new plaster mold of the undersuit. Loving the bondo work. What do you use to sand? a block, hand etc, you have very well defined lines.
  2. EVAkura

    EVAkura 405th Regiment Officer

    Yes, thank you for the tip on the foamies! As for the material to use, I am not sure, but I may have a go at your idea with my polyamide epoxy and see what I come up with :)

    To sand, I use files (various ones), hand, and my nifty mouse sander to knock down the big stuff.
  3. EVAkura

    EVAkura 405th Regiment Officer

    It is time for a little fun!! Today, I will max out my picture limit on a thread post because finally, I was very thorough in each step I took... just because I was certain it would come out really cool... I hope I don't disappoint!

    First off, a reference picture of what part I was working on. This is the center portion to the back of the torso.


    First, there was a lot of work on the left side to do before I could progress any further. Previously, I somehow missed how far off the symmetry was on various angles signified by the red marker.


    Then it was time to create and apply the Foamie outline for this detail piece. For this, I used 6mm craft foam.


    One of the few times I just gob the Bondo on :)


    And after it cured, a quick sand down with my mouse sander


    On to stage two! A quick print to cardstock, cut that out and then transfer to balsa, then cut that out


    Dremel out and sand a portion of the piece I just build up. I also applied a thin coating of Vaseline to the balsa letters.


    Another gob of Bondo, then set the balsa letters in place, making sure that they are level with the finished surface and coated on all sides.


    Another sanding to make everything level.


    Then I carefully plucked out the letters


    Another outline, this time I used both 2mm and 6mm craft foam. I had to do this part separately due to the fact that it has a sort of sweep that needed to be regulated and this was the easiest way I could think about doing it... and yet again, another gob of Bondo :)


    Finally (as you can see, it was getting dark by now), another sanding and a quick coat of primer.


    I still need to go around and clean up the mess I made with the Foamies before I move on to the center portion just below this part I finished today.... but the will be for tomorrow :)

    Attached Files:



    THAT LOOKS AWESOME, i need to get that mouse sander, looks like it does wonders... The surface is so smooth :D Love the imprint UNSC FTW!!!
  5. NayrDeath

    NayrDeath Member

    Nice job. I was going to try out that foamie technique earlier but didn't have the time before work. Hoping to try it soon though, as it seems it'd save me time instead of building layers with styrene. Keep up the good work; I look forward to your next update.

    -Ryan M-082
  6. Chernobyl


    As I'm sure Phil will agree: mouse sanders and power tools are best simply for removing large amounts of excess. Most of the smoothness in this work comes from applying the bondo well to avoid air bubbles, and later on, plenty of spot putty.

    Good tools if you've got plenty to move and don't want to waste your time doing it by hand.

    Regardless: good work as usual, Spartan. This is shaping up (hurr hurr pun) rather nicely indeed - will you be wearing this raw build or casting it, since I'm wondering now about the weight.
  7. Kinggoobero

    Kinggoobero Jr Member

    Question: What do you plan on using to put your visor pieces together? They look incredibly clean cut and I'm just praying you aren't going to super glue them together and ruin something that looks like it will be gorgeous.
  8. EVAkura

    EVAkura 405th Regiment Officer

    On a test piece, I will try Locktite Plastics bonder and see if there is any fogging or anything else that may cause a problem. I won't test it until I am ready to glue the pieces though as I don't like having an open tube laying around that may go bad in the few days it will take me to completely get ready.

    If that does not work, I will then try methylene chloride. That is what is supposed to be used for acrylic, but I will have to order it if the other stuff does not work.

    And... if that does not work, more research will be in order to find something that will... but I am confident one of those two will :)
  9. Mstruvmgc


    armor is looking great man, keep it up!
  10. EVAkura

    EVAkura 405th Regiment Officer

    Today was a no-go working on the armor... but I did have a HALO related side project that I am working on :)

    However, I have not posted updated pictures of the piece I have been working on, so.....

    More detail is evolving


    And if you look carefully, you will see the other project :)


    Attached Files:

  11. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    You are a very clever dude.


    Attached Files:



    WHY DIDNT I THINK OF THAT *facepalm*;)
  13. EVAkura

    EVAkura 405th Regiment Officer

    Thank you :)

    I could have sworn I told you about it in PM, but I went back through it and could not find it.... must have been a daydream or sumptin!

    Just as an FYI, HEX pattern figuring SUCKS!!! I am using a 7/16" hex head. This makes the x axis between mid-point of the hexagon bolts + spacer = 31/64" and the y axis is 13/32". Luckily, I found a Hex generation program that let me take everything into decimals, so the pattern equaled .8" per Hex, for a total of 20 across and 15 high for a 8 1/2" X 11" page with .5" margins. After bisecting each hex "line" both laterally and longitudinally, I was given my exact drill coordinates. Problem was, even with a Brad Point drill bit on a drill press, my cardstock template "walked" up to 1/32".... which does not sound like a lot, but it is massive when you are going for absolute perfection. Out of all 454 holes I drilled, 33 of them have to be bored out by that 1/32" to allow a bit of wiggle room to manually set the bolts into perfect alignment.

    After this, I will cut back one row on both axis and build a 1/2" wall. This will allow me to pour a 75/25 Resin to Bond Rondo mix to make the mold. It will also allow each of the pieces to be interlocked with each other :)

    For those that have not experienced it before, I hope you now understand OCD a little better :)


    So if you look in my thread, i found a hexagon graph paper generator that you can set the size of the hexes and it puts a dot at the mid point... and what material are you going to be casting from? If you are going to go with latex, do a plaster mold, it doesnt need a release agent.:D I am interested in how this is going to turn out.
    I must have OCD as well, because i re did that hand carving 4 times:eek How are you planning to add this to your suit?I actually smashed my fingers in a door 2 days ago, and cant work on my helmet, so exo- suit for me:)
  15. EVAkura

    EVAkura 405th Regiment Officer

    Sorry to hear about your fingers... I know that pain, and it SUCKS!!! As far as answering your questions: I am going to make the mold using Rondo. I don't mind using a release agent, but I really want to make sure it comes out perfect. I plan on using a 75/25 mix of Resin to Bondo respectively.

    I know I will be doing a round of polyamide epoxy backed with woven fiberglass, but past that, I am not certain. Possibly latex and maybe silicone. As far as applying this to my suit, I don't think I will be... but maybe for a V2.0 if I ever go that route.

    The last two days have been all about me waiting on our backwoods mail system here on the island. But, I finally received my hologram tint, as well as my mirror tint.

    The company that sent me the materials, didn't get the samples of the holograms correct, and excluded the only one I was planning on testing... the computer chip version. I hope they correct that mistake, but either way, I will not be using it on my Rogue visor since I have already passed that point.

    With that stated. The next step has been finished (mirror tint applied), and I am VERY happy with the results. This pretty much means that all I have left to do is glue them together, finish off some of the edges, and then adapt it to the helmet. I am certain there will be a few places where I will either have to add some buffer pieces, or build up the helmet, but nothing I can't figure out... and I am sure it will be easier than building this darned thing was!

    Here is the outside:


    The original before the tint was applied:


    And the inside:


    I know it was brought to my attention that the gold hex pattern was too pronounced, and I tested using a translucent orange coating over the top of it. It worked to a degree, but I feel it will impair my vision yet another degree, so I am simply going to have to live with it being the way it is :)

    Attached Files:

  16. Mstruvmgc


    Its your visor, i think the gold looks fine :) make it pop more lol
    that mirror tint is pretty spiffy. so it basically makes it to where people cant see through the visor from the outside right? almost like an actual two way mirrow right?
  17. AlphaPrym

    AlphaPrym Jr Member

    How is your vision through the mirroring and what is the product you used my I ask?
  18. King of Gondor12

    King of Gondor12 Jr Member

    Hey there, I came late to this build as I have been away from the 405th for a while but this was the first project I have seen since coming back and having read through the whole thing in a day, I am stunned, you are doing a great job, can't wait to see this finished!
  19. EVAkura

    EVAkura 405th Regiment Officer

    That is exactly the way it works :)

    My vision through the material is near perfect. It is just like wearing sunglasses. The only thing that obstructs my vision a bit is the hex pattern. The product is this: ONE WAY MIRROR FILM 20" wide

    Thanks so much! I will keep updating this thread all the way through completion :)
  20. EVAkura

    EVAkura 405th Regiment Officer

    Good progress today :)

    Even though I ended up waiting at my local hardware store for over 2 hours for the fastener supplier to show up, I got done what I aimed to do. I finally got all the bolts I needed, even though there ended up being 4 different types :)

    NOTE: It is really difficult to go into a hardware store and tell them you need a 3/8" head bolt with ABSOLUTELY NO markings on the head. They all insisted I tell them what thread pattern, how long, and what finish I needed! LOL

    All the bolts hot glued into position and the seamless interlocking edges placed


    1/3 Bondo to 2/3 Resin mix. I poured it as slowly as I could manage, and agitated it as much as I dared to release any air bubbles that might have gotten trapped.


    Cured to the rubbery phase. Removed the interlocking edges


    And now it sits in a tub with hot water to dissolve the particle board. This is the only way I can get it to release the mold without damaging it. I can always re-drill all the holes again :)


    Now for the fun part, and one of the reasons I am in such a great mood. While waiting at the hardware store, I had an epiphany about how I was going to work the electronics/mechanics for the spikes on the Needle gun without having to go digital. I ran up to the counter and asked for some scrap paper, and here is what I came up with!


    GO MEEEEE!!!!!! :D

    Attached Files:

  21. Mstruvmgc


    ok so im not sure i understand everything here, and go you by being so awesome you can just write this out and understand it lol, but judging by your diagram here im guessing that when you press the trigger the Cam spins and pulls down the needle 5/8 of an inch into the gun correct?
    How is it going to release the needle for the reload?
    very awesome idea by the way

    Attached Files:


    SIKAXIS Member

    This build looks so sick ! I am also in the beginning stages of building your rogue helmet. I tried printing it once, but after building the visor portion out of paper I saw that it was going to be way to small for my face. I was wondering what scale you used on the helmet (if you remember that is). The scaling on this one seems a bit different than on other helmets I've worked on, that's why I'm asking.
  23. mvozzy

    mvozzy New Member

    I would also like to know how you scaled the chest as well, and as for the helmet, once you get past the visor its not as small as you think
  24. EVAkura

    EVAkura 405th Regiment Officer

    Okay, first off, I just realized that the cam and locking cam are backwards in this diagram :eek LOL, but yes, you got the idea. The only difference is that the travel will be 1-5/8" inch per trigger pull. Reason being is that the needles are 5 inches long (1/4" of the base of the spike will be recessed in the tube to help add stability) and I want them to be "spent" in three pulls. This will put the tip at 1/8" below the surface after the three pulls. At that point in time, the next trigger pull's current will be redirected to the next pair of spikes (one on each side).

    So, to answer your question... There will be a mechanism (spring loaded arm) that stops and locks the locking cam from moving backwards. Kudus to you for seeing that part, and recognizing that would be an issue when it comes time to reload since I didn't even put that in the drawing! :D Like I stated before, the needles will drop down two at a time, until "spent". Starting from the back and outside, then moving to the inside, then to the middle outside, etc. I needed to make sure that the weapon could be reloaded at any point in time during this sequence. So, what will happen is, when the scope is tilted upwards to reload, this will pull all the needles into the "spent" position, regardless of their current position. Then, as the scope is returning back to its seated position, a mechanical catch will pull the spring loaded locking cam arms back to allow free movement in the reverse direction... thus allowing all the spikes to return to the fully loaded position.

    Needless to say, some custom CNC milling will have to be done for a good portion of this, but I have some great leads on this :)

    Thanks! I built the helmet at the default size. I have a 23 1/2" hat size for reference. This is an odd shaped helmet for sure, and the bottom section has to separate in order to get your head in. Also, if I were to do this again, I would probably add 5% to the size as it is quite snug around my temples.

    As with the helmet, all my parts I built are at Aztlan's default size. :)
  25. EVAkura

    EVAkura 405th Regiment Officer


    Fingers are SO sore from prying, tearing, tweezing, you name it, to get that HDF board broken up and out of there. It did not help that the hot glue fought me and the that the board had a tougher surface (kind of like a laminate) that I had to break.

    BUT, the mold is completed (this stage that is!). I created it to be seamless, so now I need to make 5 more of these. The good thing about this next stage is that it will be MUCH easier as I will not have to deal with the bolts, measurements, or the HDF. I will simply make a silicone cast of this one, them replicate it using that (what would now be considered a mold) silicone piece.

    So far, I figure I have around 35 hours into this, and $45. I should be able to get to my goal of a 2'X2' master mold for just under $100.

    Anyways, here it is!


    And more importantly, a close-up (it still needs a thorough cleaning)


    Attached Files:

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