Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by EVAkura, Dec 8, 2013.
Looks good mate, can't wait to see it in action. Keep up the awesome work!
Wow, this is very reminiscent of the painful brain work that went into my last animation project. Since mine was an airsoft project, I started with a powerful battery (11.1V 2200 MaH) and stepped it down to 5V using a RC plane battery eliminator circuit (BEC) about 25 bucks by Castle Creations.
This let me run circuit boards, LEDs, drive relays, timers, and 2 RC servos at the same time. I'd consider this route and use stock or modified RC servos and the wide array of available arms and linkages to run this. I used a combo of cutout switches and DPDTs to control the shroud retraction. Originally, the servo was stripped of electronics and the switching controlled the motor direct. This eventually stripped the motor due to it still getting power when the movement hit the limit. In the end, I had the switches control the logic and used cheap Chinese servo testers to tell the servo what I wanted.
One circuit had a tester sending a close signal, one circuit had a tester sending an open signal. You could select between circuits with fully loaded, 1 shot, 2 shot and 3 shots fired signals and select which servo gets what signal. Lifting the scope would send the 3 shot signal followed by the loaded signal to all servos when you closed the scope. Done. Using the servos would eliminate the locking cam and springs under the needles. This work happened on page 43 of my build. Let me know if it looks promising. I didn't post my revised circuit drawings for using the servo testers, but I can PM it if this looks viable for you.
lol i feel all proud that i cought that.
so much info i love it. the build is looking great still. keep up the good work
I am going to have to take some time and digest what you just described My first instinct is to say, "No, I am doing it my way!", but I am learning to give other's ideas serious consideration (especially ones that have proven themselves through first hand experience).
Thank you for the information
I know what you mean about doing it your way. In reality though, I can only claim to be the focal point of 'my' plan. My final electronics package was the result of reviews and suggestions by at least five different people with three more contributing on the mechanisms driven by the electronics. In the end, I was standing on the shoulders of giants.
RC servos work by interpreting a pulse. How far along the servo's path of travel it moves depends on the length of pulse. I didn't have the time or patience to develop an aurdino package to do that. I just bought two testers, stripped off the knobs and packaging, set the potentiometers on each to get the result I wanted and then switched between which one was sending a signal to my servo. Not elegant, but simple.
Awesome work, as always! Your mold looks sweet, and your mechanism for the needle rifle looks very intriguing. My only concern is how stable the needles will be with only 1/4" recessed into the gun when they are in the "fully loaded" position. It would be devastating to have one damaged by getting snagged or caught on something!
I didn't go into detail on that part, but I have thought that through The base of the needle will be secured to another piece of molded rondo which will have a hold in the center (for the LED wire) and will be fitted to the tube. This will alleviate any movement of the needle when it is fully exposed (minus the 1/4"). Good catch btw!
Also, I updated the first page, but figured I would do it here as well. I have created video #7 in my series of instructional videos for EVA foam. This one is about cutting techniques and blade use.
One thing ive wondered about your molds out of Rondo is how fragile they are. Because Rondo isnt the strongest material and suck but have you done any kind of stress testing?
Since I go with a 25% Bondo and 75% Resin mix, it is not too fragile at all. Each one of those bolts I took out required quite a bit of tugging, rocking back-and-forth, and pulling. Not a single one of those really thin pieces in between the bolts broke. Also, it has a bit of warp to the whole thing. I would feel quite comfortable with applying liquid nails to the back, gluing it to a piece of board, and clamping it down to get rid of that warp. It will break if too much stress is applied, but it takes quite a bit.
Any new progress EVA? Love what you are doing and I would hate to see it get benched
Sorry about that! I have been making tutorials for EVA foam Reach parts (so far, forearm and bicep) as well as one for the H4 Master Chief bicep and shoulder (created a new template for the shoulder).... AND made a tutorial for a new process I came up with for hardening EVA that negates the need for PVA and Plasti-dip! All can be found over at the Creation Discussion section of the forums here (since I can't create new threads here anymore!).
I have a job coming up, but it will not take all my time, so I will be getting back to the Rogue soon. I will continue to work on the Reach parts as well, especially on bad weather days. Man, I have a lot of projects going!
EVAkura, Are there pep files for the rest of the Rogue armor? I've been looking all over the place and as it looks, alot of the Spartans share different armor parts,( gauntlets,shins,boots, etc.) but as I can see Rogue has his own parts..
I just double checked (in game) and there is not a specific set of armor dedicated to the Rogue. I think the reference photo you are referring to is the one where he is wearing the Twin plated forearms, and Outer plated legs.
I am not sure if they have pep files for those options. There are a bunch of variations as choices. If you can post the image you are referring to, I can confirm what armor he is wearing
Just a quick update to what I have been working on.
Full detailed step-by-step tutorials for Foam Halo Reach bicep and forearm
A new paint prep technique for EVA Foam builds (negates the need for PVA and Plastidip)
Full detailed step-by-step tutorial for Foam H4 Master Chief bicep and shoulder armor.
The H4 MC shoulder armor template is all new, fits on one page, and was created by yours truly!
MAN YOU ARE WAY TOO GOOD AT THIS! made your H4 MC shoulder, looks like im doin the reach forearm and bicep! love it man
I am so glad to hear you like it, and that the files are getting used!
I sat down yesterday and forced myself to learn "paths" in Gimp. OMG, what a game changer. Just so you know, the pattern for the H4 MC Shoulder has changed a bit, to be more game accurate. Here is what I came up with using the paths tool.
Here is what the new template looks like (the file can be found in its thread)
And here is the rear and top/mid section of the needle rifle
Ok, I think the awesomeness in this thread is getting overwhelming, still loving it though
Just ordered the highest grade EVA mats (24 of them) and some Smooth-On products... this should be an exciting month
And thanks for the compliments everyone! I am feeling the love for sure
What is Gimp? is it a program you are using?
by the way, everything is looking great
Maybe one day ill use your templates for H4 since they seem easy to follow. I just still dont like the armor much lol
Gimp is kind of like Microsoft Paint
Gimp is halfway between Paint and Photoshop, and best of all its FREE.
(As a tool, it is closer to photoshop in its capabilities rather than to paint)
Paths are great and all, but they are nothing compared to when you learn Layer Masks lol.
It's great to be able to turn things on/off and erase things using the Layer Mask without permanently removing them like when you use the eraser. It's the difference between being able to adjust something and having to start over in my opinion.
I will say though, that will layer masks, you should get familiar with switching the 100% hardness brush on and off. It's a pain to go through 50 layers trying to find which layer has the little smudge/shadow on it because you didn't erase things in the Layer Mask good enough.
Also, when you do curves on a path and you are modifying the geometry/profiles of the curves (the lines you drag attached to each point) I find that you can greatly improve the detail by modifying every other point, then deleting the points between those with Ctrl+Shift+Click and re-adding the points you just deleted with Ctrl+Click (or was it Shift+Click....?). It basically re-creates the point with the knowledge of the curve geometry (if that makes any sense).
It's a little trick I came across which helped me improve the detail of my curves/splines.
How do i go about getting this free gimp? lol
Gimp can be found here. As with any download I do, I ALWAYS check this site for it has the backing of CNET, a trusted source. But...... just like 4Shared, it has a lot of advertising. Be sure to click on the link right below the word Gimp (it will have a "CNET Secure Download" wording on the button).
Also, be careful while installing as I forgot if there was any extra and unnecessary software bundled with it. To err on the side of caution, read everything when installing, and install nothing but the program.
Thanks a bunch, ill check it out when i get off work today
Been super busy with multiple projects lately. I am about ready to make a cast of my combat knife, and still working on various templates. I am waiting on my mats to show up (hopefully tomorrow or the next day) so I can finish off a project for a friend - H3 Forearms custom made. I am holding off with the construction of the Needle rifle until my new scroll saw shows up, and am about to start 2 custom H4 Master Chief full foam builds. Lastly, tomorrow, I will be pouring my mother mold of this:
And an arsty photo of the same thing:
Not pictured is the surrounding walls I made so that they will be seamlessly interlocking. I will be creating 6 of them to make one giant master mold. I will then be able to create 30"x24" sheets out of either latex or Dragonskin
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