Props Blacrose's Sniper Rifle W.i.p.

What would be the best finishing paint job?

  • Desert Camo (browns)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Pink Camo, seriously

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Black and Grey

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
Status
Not open for further replies.
Mutant child SR.... cool, that's a good idea hehe, havnt seen H2 in a while, dunno the difference, but it;s less detailed as you said, you could add pieces of small hardware "stuff" (ie, small knobs, matel plates and stuff after you bondo it, it'l look great :D
 
Yeah, Ive got plans for adding metal plates (for the realistic 3D effect) and Proper screws... And since it seems like I'll be painting my SR in in-game colours the metal plating and additions will be more visible than they would be in Pink Camo lol.

I'm also gonna be making rubber grips for the butt and the handle of my SR and I need to know what kind of rubber/plastic do I use for that?
 
you know rubber padings? the sell those at ACE, the usualy have this 2foot by 1 foot pad , one side has this flat surface, the other has this texture to it, ill show you, I used it on my AR, here's a link, its on the grip, the mag chamber, and the handle.
 
Thanks Centerside! thats exactly what I was talkin about lol. I'll get all that stuff once I'm dont with Stage 3 (bondo)
 
BlacRoseImmortal said:
Thanks Centerside! thats exactly what I was talkin about lol. I'll get all that stuff once I'm dont with Stage 3 (bondo)

No worries, and that pad is easy to cut too, but sometimes it's TOO easy to cut, you should be a bit careful to not cut out more than you want.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
How thick is it? Looking at your pics it seems to be like 1/4 inch-ish.... that may be too thick for my purposes.,.... does it come in different varieties?
 
Yeah, it's 1/4", not sure of they do have thinner ones, the only ones I saw were a stack of the pads in black and red, maybe they sell thiner ones, but im not sure.
 
BlacRoseImmortal said:
[...]

@Eric or anyone who knows the answer: You mentioned Primer... does that come before or after the Bondo?...wait........ok, is there ANYTHING I need to do before Bondoing?

Well, since you asked for me by name I guess I'll jump in here, lol. The primer comes after the bondo stage. You first cover the body of the SR with bondo, sand it down smooth and even it out, then you apply a coat of primer.

The purpose of the primer initially is to check for any imperfections/flaws that need to be fixed prior to application of the actual paint. After that, the primer serves as a good adhesive base for the final coats of paint to cling to. You can always painting the SR without primer, but the results won't be so good.

And as for the paint, yes, I said COATS. You'll want to apply more than one, as that'll help to increase the piece's durability from regular wear and tear. Some people also apply a clear coat afterward, but that gives a prop a shiny "candy" appearance I personally don't like.

Oh, and for the paints, I'd suggest you use automotive spray paints. It's what most of the major prop studios use for the props they make, as it'll stand up to a lot more wear and tear than the average household paint. I mean, it's formulated for use on cars, so it has to be tough, lol.

BlacRoseImmortal said:
[...]

So Ive decided that I'll be upgrading as much as I can to fit the Halo 3 Model... So basically im gonna make a mutant H2/H3 love child Sniper Rifle.

Iv'e already taken the liberty of changing the end of the barrel piece (what is is called?) to fit more like the H3 version, but I wont be able to make it look exactly like it since the H2 version has only one "hole" and the H3 has 2 "holes" (look at the reference pics int he gallery to know what im talkin about)... this is gonna look weird in the end but I think I'll be able to pull of some ridiculously remarkable mutations....

does anyone have an opinion about this?

Personally, I think that's a kewl idea BRI. I mean, that's what I'm doing with my Mk VI armour. My helmet started out as the HALO 2 model, but I've since incorporated a lot of details present on the HALO 3 in-game model, as well as ones present on the HALO 2 version, as I want my armour to be as uber-detailed as possible.

I know most everyone wants to go for screen-accurate, but at the same time part of this hobby is about taking some creative license with our work. So, why not do it that way? It's not like people won't be able to recognize what it is anyway, lol. I think it'll come out looking real good if you do that, imho.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok im doin this picture update to show what has been finalized, this is how it is goin to look (well before the bondo detailing) in the end:

DSC01387.jpg

I feel that the barrel is just about the right length now, it better be because its too late to move it lol.

DSC01386.jpg

Here is the "flash" thingy on the end of the barrel. I made a nice little hole the size of the barrel and I'll be workin on this part first when bondoing.

DSC01388.jpg

I just notices how the foam did overexpand over the night :cautious: when I wasnt around (go figure) but I think I'll be able to mask this imperfection with bondo. *Aww look how cute Kaeda is overlooking Mommy's work :lol: *

DSC01389.jpg

This picture deosnt look right only because of where I was standing. The PVC is actually very centered and you can see where I foamed it in place in the front, you can see my little knobby thingy and the empty cavity that i'll be rebuilding my magazine holder.
 
BlacRoseImmortal said:
Ok im doin this picture update to show what has been finalized, this is how it is goin to look (well before the bondo detailing) in the end:


DSC01388.jpg

I just notices how the foam did overexpand over the night :cautious: when I wasnt around (go figure) but I think I'll be able to mask this imperfection with bondo. *Aww look how cute Kaeda is overlooking Mommy's work :lol: *
this SR looks amazing. o btw i like the snake in the corner of the shot
 
Last edited by a moderator:
rvb4life said:
wow, its even better than i imagined. The scope looks crooked, though.
thats because it is crooked, like I mentioned in a post before that when I glued it back on I didnt realize I didnt have it straight and then i resined over it.... lol

i'll fix it after im done with the 'guts'. I'll be able to pry the back part of the scop off with an ice pic or somethign lol.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The PVC makes it look great! Also, Kaeda is awesum!
I cant wait to see this finished!
 
Heh, my lovely little girl likes to sit on the back of my work chair and watch me work :] Shes so cuuuuute! :love:

Does anyone know how I can pry off the back of the scope without causing too much damage? it is resined into palce.....thickly....

Oh and thanks everyone for your kind words, its because of you guys (and alot of alcohol) why I havnt given up! :love:
 
BlacRoseImmortal said:
Heh, my lovely little girl likes to sit on the back of my work chair and watch me work :] Shes so cuuuuute! :love:

Does anyone know how I can pry off the back of the scope without causing too much damage? it is resined into palce.....thickly....

Oh and thanks everyone for your kind words, its because of you guys (and alot of alcohol) why I havnt given up! :love:

hehe, your lucky to have your little girl :D

Maybe you can use a rotary tool (if you have one) with a drill bit for cutting to cut around the base of the scope.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top