Custom Led's

[Serpent ZX]

I had a company make some LED's for me with a 55,000 - 60,000 mcd rating... I also had the angle very narrow. Natrually, narrow LED's usually have an unsually high mcd rating cause their focused, but these are a little bit higher. Most of the common ones you buy that are ultra bright, are normally no higher then 8,000 mcd, and the harder ones to find are around 16,000 mcd. These are what you find at your local electronics stores, such as Radio Shack, and the likes. And if you go online to buy your LED's, usually they run only up to around 28,000 mcd. And of course all narrow angle. If you know LED's, you know what I am talking about.

Anyways, I finally tweaked my LED's to run at full 25 ma, and also can be turned up to a staggering 52 ma, and at an average of around 50,000 - 80,000 mcd, with an angle of 15 degrees. Got the color I wanted, and the effect. And very functional. Meant to only be used to light on what is being looked at, and not be seen. When looking at the light from the side, or from below, or top, you can not see the light hiding, and masking the helmet wearer in darkness unless standing RIGHT in front, and even then, feels like a camera flash, and without even looking into the beam. The beam projects outward quite a bit also, making only what your shining it on light up. Almost like a HID style laser. Also making small back-up circuits if something burns out since I only expect the LED's to be pushing MAYBE 40,000 hours of life, and when at 52 ma, around 10,000 hours... MAYBE. All LED's will run on a modified parallel circuit, with their own resister protecting each one. This will prevent the whole circuit dying if one bulb goes, or any other disaster's that come with series, or normally made parallel circuits. None of the LED's have to share with others, or fight for their own juice. Of course the battery will take a toll, but I have a rechargable battery pack I will make, that will give 9 volts. This will allow me to just plug in my helmet to charge up. I also waterproofed my LED's, and will waterproof my circuit as well when I get it done. All will be placed in a brass holder, that has been primed like the helmet, to match.

Sacrificed about 25 LED's in testing different things with them. Popped about 20 resisters, and also melted many feet of wire, while cinging the wire inside. Outcome from the lighting I finally came to... Priceless... LOL

I am not going to lie though, my original idea was very different, but what I landed with, I am VERY satisfied with. Only thing I have to worry about now, is heat, so I might add some heatsinks, or just time the circuit to run for a minimum of 1 minute before turning off. All I care, is I finally have an LED that can run at these specs that is stable.



And here are some replacements that I will store somewhere...

 

[link4044]

wow thats some math going into those LEds

 

[tlither]

Any pics of the completed circuit? Please.

 

[odst26]

I had a company make some LED's for me with a 55,000 - 60,000 mcd rating... I also had the angle very narrow. Natrually, narrow LED's usually have an unsually high mcd rating cause their focused, but these are a little bit higher. Most of the common ones you buy that are ultra bright, are normally no higher then 8,000 mcd, and the harder ones to find are around 16,000 mcd. These are what you find at your local electronics stores, such as Radio Shack, and the likes. And if you go online to buy your LED's, usually they run only up to around 28,000 mcd. And of course all narrow angle. If you know LED's, you know what I am talking about.

Anyways, I finally tweaked my LED's to run at full 25 ma, and also can be turned up to a staggering 52 ma, and at an average of around 50,000 - 80,000 mcd, with an angle of 15 degrees. Got the color I wanted, and the effect. And very functional. Meant to only be used to light on what is being looked at, and not be seen. When looking at the light from the side, or from below, or top, you can not see the light hiding, and masking the helmet wearer in darkness unless standing RIGHT in front, and even then, feels like a camera flash, and without even looking into the beam. The beam projects outward quite a bit also, making only what your shining it on light up. Almost like a HID style laser. Also making small back-up circuits if something burns out since I only expect the LED's to be pushing MAYBE 40,000 hours of life, and when at 52 ma, around 10,000 hours... MAYBE. All LED's will run on a modified parallel circuit, with their own resister protecting each one. This will prevent the whole circuit dying if one bulb goes, or any other disaster's that come with series, or normally made parallel circuits. None of the LED's have to share with others, or fight for their own juice. Of course the battery will take a toll, but I have a rechargable battery pack I will make, that will give 9 volts. This will allow me to just plug in my helmet to charge up. I also waterproofed my LED's, and will waterproof my circuit as well when I get it done. All will be placed in a brass holder, that has been primed like the helmet, to match.

Sacrificed about 25 LED's in testing different things with them. Popped about 20 resisters, and also melted many feet of wire, while cinging the wire inside. Outcome from the lighting I finally came to... Priceless... LOL

I am not going to lie though, my original idea was very different, but what I landed with, I am VERY satisfied with. Only thing I have to worry about now, is heat, so I might add some heatsinks, or just time the circuit to run for a minimum of 1 minute before turning off. All I care, is I finally have an LED that can run at these specs that is stable.



And here are some replacements that I will store somewhere...

those are awesome but you know whatsalmost as good as that and you can get out of old toys, the lights out of them are pretty good cause im working on a helment and using toy lights but i wouldn't mind some of those

 

[Gokussj5okazu]

Nice work! I gotta admit though, I don't really get the point. The in-game light aren't that bright.

 

[Vrogy]

a staggering 52 ma

melted many feet of wire, while cinging the wire inside

...what? You probably just shorted the circuit. Also, not sure why it's a good idea to have super-bright lights.. but hey, keep on' keepin' on.

 

[Serpent ZX]

Shorted them out... Hell yeah I did. LOL LED calculators come in handy, but I was trying to get them at a higher rating without having to pulse them. Only pulsing them, can you get over 100 ma even with over 800,000 mcd... Like the flash from a camera, and on a measly small 5 mm LED. The ones I have are a lot more focused then normal 5 mm LED's. Almost all LED's run at an average of around 20 ma, to be safe, and make them last. Pushing 25 is at their max. But they can also tolerate up to 30 ma, but you reduce the lifetime of the LED by 80% - 60%. And also, LED's contain chips, with each chip inside getting the max of 25 ma, but also decreases their brightness, and beam, making for a very wide light, but not focused, so they can't light things up very far at all. There is a lot of stuff in it... Too much to really explain.

My LED's are just very focused, have a high output, and run at their max, and can be increased to a stable 52 ma, which is really pushing the LED, and limits it's life indefinately. When in normal mode, 25 ma, they are still projected very well, and have a good amount of life, that I will probably never use. That, and I took extra precautions by not using any solder, and made almost everything, including the wire from scratch practically, and water proofed the bad boys. Finiding what I needed at electronic stores, was useless. I just wasn't satisfied with any of the things I found, or even online, of what I could get my hands on.

Yes... I went horribly overboard.

 

[TheSpartanMjolnir]

I don't get it. did you change the circuit so it would shine brighter or did you ask the company to do that