Different Hardening Techniques

[SGT Bradshaw]

I am quite a fan of building armor and I would love to make some real stuff, but my parents are a little crazed. They won't let me use fiberglass, and most likely not resin. I would hate to lose my chances at becoming the Master Chief's understudy so I am looking for other materials to harden my armor. I was thinking about paper mache, but it would leave a rough surface.

Any other materials?
And if you have even the slightest idea, let me know because I will try anything.

 

[box o crayons]

well yea there has been plenty of topics all saying paper mache wont work but if you cant use fiberglass use aqua resin because its the equevelant only non-toxic or use smooth on because it has no need for a respirator

 

[City Static]

I am quite a fan of building armor and I would love to make some real stuff, but my parents are a little crazed. They won't let me use fiberglass, and most likely not resin. I would hate to lose my chances at becoming the Master Chief's understudy so I am looking for other materials to harden my armor. I was thinking about paper mache, but it would leave a rough surface.

Any other materials?
And if you have even the slightest idea, let me know because I will try anything.

There's a method called "The Hot Glue Method". You can see more information in this thread: http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8829

Trust me, that thread was made for you.

Paper mache is a bad idea. If you want realistic armor, paper mache is not ideal. If you don't want to do the hot glue method, you can use clay and sculpt all the details. Just put the clay on the pepakura model and go at it. Once the clay dries, you can make a mold. It's safe and easy. Once you make the cast for the mold, you can make all the armor you want in a few minutes.

Good luck.

 

[thatdecade]

People have done some amazing things with cardboard.

 

[Akademee]

well, paper macheing the outside kills detail, but what about macheing the inside, like where the fiberglass is supposed to go. it would take significantly more layers, but you might end up with the strength you need, possibly, can any one agree to this or refute this?

 

[Hamsterstyle]

I'm a paper mache fiend who hates toxic chemicals. I've done a lot of paper mache in my life and I'm considering attempting an armor piece using only pepakura, paper mache, and some aqua resin. Essentially doing it completly non-toxic.

Paper Mache is slow drying, that is one of the largest problems you are going to have, plus it will seriously warp your pepakura unless you seal it first. It essentially turns whatever you are working on into a soggy mess for a short while.

Honestly, you should try a paper mache piece (something small but with detail/curves/edges) and see if it works for you.

You can also use Aqua Resin for the hardening. I have some and I'm testing it out. It's not as solid as resin/bondo and it's a bit brittle, but with enough layers it can still be decently strong.

I'm a noob at this armor making stuff, but that's my 2 cents.

 

[SGT Bradshaw]

There's a method called "The Hot Glue Method". You can see more information in this thread: http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8829

Trust me, that thread was made for you.

Paper mache is a bad idea. If you want realistic armor, paper mache is not ideal. If you don't want to do the hot glue method, you can use clay and sculpt all the details. Just put the clay on the pepakura model and go at it. Once the clay dries, you can make a mold. It's safe and easy. Once you make the cast for the mold, you can make all the armor you want in a few minutes.

Good luck.

I actually did my research and looked at the hot glue method. It seemed like a good plan until my parents told me no. And you suggest this clay molding process, what do I pour into the mold? It would probably be some type of smooth on if I'm not mistaken. I was browsing their website and it seemed like it would work well.

Thank you

 

[GMer56]

Well, actual paper mache would in fact be very messy (the results are in my armor thread!)
But I am trying the fiberglass method with non-toxic equivalents: paper mache without the paper (flour and water paste) and cardboard on the inside and covered in a Rustoleum coat (The only bad thing about rustoleum is a. it smells funny for a while and b. if you get it on your skin you need a scouring pad to scrub it off!).
If it works I'll let you know.
Mache method thread
The hand plate looks a little strange because I didn't sand it very well before I painted it.

[url="http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17228&st=0&p=273155&#entry273155"Mache Armor[/url]

Good Luck!

@ Hamsterstyle, I've read that using a hairdryer can make the mache dry in about hour (or the duration of an art class), or you could stick it in the oven @ 150 degrees and keep a close eye on it.

@ Akademee, I agree.

 

[23Magnum]

I didn't mention anything before, but there is this stuff called Fast Mache. I found it on Michaels.com. I haven't tried it out yet, but just in case you would like to here you go.

http://www.michaels.com/art/online/display...oductNum=gc0585

I don't know how much it is at their stores, but I found places on the web that offer 48 oz packages instead of 24. Might be cheaper. It's more of a sculpting material, but you might be able to think up new ways to use it.

 

[Iceman065]

The biggest problem with paper mache for armor is that it can grow mold. If you look at some of the other topics about using the paper mache method there are people who have talked about having that issue. Also with what you are trying to do, clay might on Pep might be the best option but it still needs to be hardened so that the weight of the clay doesn't make it collapse on itself. The problem from there would be making the castings of it. Since your parents have already vetoed the other methods this one might be out as well because creating a mold can be a messy process.

The only other thing that I can think of would be to make the high def files then use Truck Bedliner Spray (the kind in a spray paint can) to make the armor ridged. It can be found at almost any auto parts store. I have played with the method before and it works ok. There are some topics on the boards as well if you are willing to search for them. If you start with a light layer on the pep, let that layer dry and add in more layers over time it can be built up to be a strong alternative method. I would still suggest doing it in an open area with a respirator since it is in arousal form.

 

[SGT Bradshaw]

Well, both those methods sound quite safe and reasonable. I do hope my parents will let me do one of them. I probably will wind up trying the fast mache method. If I do I will let you know the results. And I would put this fast mache on the inside, correct? I'm quite new to armor making in case you didn't notice ha ha. But what could I use to harden the paper on the outside?

Thanks Again,
Bradshaw

 

[BFDesigns]

Well, both those methods sound quite safe and reasonable. I do hope my parents will let me do one of them. I probably will wind up trying the fast mache method. If I do I will let you know the results. And I would put this fast mache on the inside, correct? I'm quite new to armor making in case you didn't notice ha ha. But what could I use to harden the paper on the outside?

Thanks Again,
Bradshaw

You can use something called Gel Stain (pick it up at Home Depot, comes in a resin sized container). It's an epoxy based lacquer that is very thick, like resin, but seems to be a premixed less toxic substance. I'm not sure what the properties of the stain are but they are probably comparable to the standard polyester resin that we use. However, it will probably take much longer (24 hours-ish) to dry.

Another option is to go with an epoxy system like the type they use to make carbon fiber structures. They are slightly less toxic than polyester resins and can be used with fiberglass. However, they are more expensive (double the price of polyester resin). Look them up at FibreGlast.com.

 

[Optimus Rhyme]

What about plaster? like plaster of paris?
I have no idea if you can achieve any detailing on it.
Do you guys know anyone who has?

Never mind. Just found a thread about it. It's too fragile.