Duke's Custom Reach Suit Pep +photos!! *WIP

Discussion in 'Halo Pepakura Costumes' started by PerniciousDuke, May 24, 2016.

  1. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Welcome to my build thread! This is my first suit, but I have completed a few other peps before. I try to record the steps that I take for each stage of the process, but they are not 100% my ideas. I have learned everything I know from reading build threads on the 405th. Some of the tips and techniques I have developed, but again I thank former builds for paving the way.

    Scroll down, there are helpful links in my second post.


    Current Stage:
    Progress10-17-17.png
    Orange = Pepped
    Red = Hardening
    Blue = Shaping
    Green = Painting/Rigging
    Purple = Finished

    Helmet: Commando/Carter Concept Varient by Crimmson
    Chest: Collar/Grenadier/Jorge (without neck guard) by L3X BLU3R1V3R
    R. Shoulder: ODST by Kirrou
    L. Shoulder: Commando by @BMcClain
    Bicep: Standard Mk. V by ForgedReclaimer
    Forearm: Standard Mk. V by ErMaC
    Arm Attachment: UA/Bracer by Ral Partha
    Cod: Standard Mk V. by Roadwarrior
    Thighs: Standard Mk. V by ForgedReclaimer
    Thigh Attachment: UA/NxRA Tactical Hardcase by SJSUSPARTAN
    Shins/Knees: Standard Mk.V with increased FJ Para knee by @BMcClain
    Handplates: Standard Mk V (foam glove) by WandererTJ
    Boots: Standard Mk V by @fat-hi555
    Weapons: Seperate Thread


    Color Scheme:
    Primary: White (with battle damaged)
    Secondary: Light blue
    Emblems and Accents: Red/Orange and Black
    Lights: Blue
    Visor: Blue Mirror


    Bio:
    B-128: Zan (Pernicious Duke) || Spartan-III || Beta Company: Shield Team || Petty Officer Third Class || Washington

    Name: Thorak, Zan
    Service Number: B-128
    Birthplace: Draco III
    DOB: December 28, 2530
    Rank: Petty Officer 3rd Class
    Armor: MJOLNIR MK V variants White/Light Blue
    Emblem: Saw and Shield
    Gender: Male
    Weight: 218 lbs.
    Height: 5' 11" (6' 3" in armor)
    Hair Color: Brown
    Eye Color: Blue
    Preferred Weapon: M45 Tactical Shotgun

    Taken by the Spartan III Program in 2537 as part of Beta Company at the age of 7. First deployed by Senior Chief Petty Officer Franklin Mendez on 27 June 2045 to the human colony Verent along with 3 other Spartans of Beta Company designated as Shield Team. All Spartans were outfitted with MJOLNIR and sent as a "non-combat" team to aid the people of this outlying colony. Their true purpose, only later discovered and sadly never utilized, was to set up an extraction point for Beta Company should Operation: TORPEDO need it. Shield Team was heavily equipped with defensive armor and gear.

    During their weeks on Verent, Shield Team received numerous reports of Covenant invasions all throughout human-controlled space and were not happy to be waiting around as a relief effort. Shortly after Operation: TORPEDO was deemed a success, Shield Team learned that there were no Beta Company survivors and no one would be coming to Verent. Now hotheaded, the team's leader Zan learned that his home world, Draco III, was currently under Covenant control. They abandoned their post and joined up with the Spartan-IIs on Draco III in the retaliation attack. With no human civilian survivors and no Covenant forces remaining, the mission was again considered a "success." Tired of the UNSC's ideas of "acceptable loss," Shield Team decided to take more preemptive measures. After going AWOL, their last known destination was into Covenant-controlled space.

    Spartan B-128's last known whereabouts are still unconfirmed and his armor, along with the rest of Shield Team have never been recovered.




    Time Spent:
    Scaling – 3 hr
    Pepping – 149 hr
    Hardening – 34 hr
    Shaping – 66.25 hr
    Painting – 5 hr
    Electronics/Rigging – 5 hr

    Materials Used:

    Pepakura Designer 3 (Free Version, for printing)
    ArmorSmith (Paid Version, for scaling)
    Body Suit $22
    Motorcycle Shirt Armor $45
    Motorcycle Leg Armor $40
    Tactical Belt $12
    Load Bearing Suspenders $12
    110lb Cardstock - 210 pages
    Glue Stick - 94 sticks
    Xacto knife blades - 34 blades
    Popsicle Sticks, Tongue Depressors (from Dollar Store) - 40
    Binder Clips - 12
    Fiberglassing (Laminating) Resin w/catalyst - 198oz
    Plastic Cups - 236 (most were for Bondo @ $0.05ea)
    Respirator - 2
    Paintbrushes - 39
    Gloves - 217 pair
    Fiberglass Cloth - 21 sq feet
    Acetone - 83oz
    Paper towel - 2 roll
    Bondo (Body Filler w/cream hardener) - 315oz
    Putty Knives 4" - 10
    9" x 11" Sandpaper - 3@60, 1@120
    5" Sanding Discs- 6@120g, 19@60g
    Oscillating Discs - 4@40, 22@60g, 1@120g
    4 1/2" Sanding Roll by yard - 1@320g
    Spot Putty - 1 tube
    Rustoleum grey primer - 1 can
    Rustoleum silver paint - 1 can
    Rustoleum White paint - 1 can
    Rustoleum Orange paint - 1 can
    Rustoleum Flat Clear Coat - 1 can
    Craft Acrylic Black Paint - 1 tube
    Painter's tape - 1 roll
    Paintbrushes - 1 small, 3 foam
    Craft Acrylic Brown Paint - 1 tube
    .020" PETG Plastic - 8 sheets
    Air Dry Clay - 3lb
    On/off switch - 2
    9v connectors - 3
    12v fans - 2
    Wire and shrink wrap
    5mm White LED with metal holders - 4
    Krylon Looking Glass Silver spray paint - 1
    Krazy Glue 1oz tube - 10









    Tools Used:
    Xacto Knife $17
    Self Healing Cutting board $10
    Pens (1 blue, 1 black)
    Low Temp mini Hot Glue Gun $8
    Rasp File
    Fine Files and File cleaning brush
    5" Orbital Sander
    Dremel MultiPro 395 (cut off, grinding and sanding attachments)
    Compressed air (for quick cleaning)
    Painting Stand (home made)
    Vacuum Form Table (home made for visor)
    Soldering gun
    Heat Gun (for visor)





    Future Purchases:
    1" Strapping 25yd/$10
    1" Buckles 12/$6
    1" Buckle Slides 20/$6
    Hook & Loop Roll $12
    BOOMco. UNSC M6 Blaster $12
    Metal LED Light Holders 50/$6
    Blue 5mm LED lights 80/$4
    Patches/Stickers 405th 2/$4
    Speaker
    Microphone
    Shoe/Heel Lift
    Neck Seal
    Vacuum Form Table
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2017 at 10:57 AM
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  2. AtomicDeadlock

    AtomicDeadlock

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Didn't realize you hadn't made a suit yet! :) Congratulations and happy building!
     
  3. Mesh

    Mesh

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Good luck man, I'm with you every step :p
    What colours?
     
  4. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!
    My Building Tips (Post # for this thread)-

    Scaling/Printing Weapon (this post!)
    Assembling Pepakura
    Chest Scaling
    Creating a digital mock-up
    Hardening Pepakura w/resin (#66)
    Hardening Pepakura Weapon w/rondo
    Inverting a Pep file from Left to Right
    Keeping your knife sharp (#137)



    Helpful Links: (will update links soon)

    Building a Vacuum Forming Table for Visor Making
    Magnet Calculator
    Adam's Painting Tut v2
    Cereal Kill3r's pepakura walk-through


    Thanks! Yeah, just the helmets and the pipboy so far. The links are in my signature.

    Thanks Mesh! I'm gonna hold you to that. :p Who else is going to show me the proper way to spell colours? :)


    First up, Scaling.

    Let's face it, even the alien weapons were made for the Master Chief. As such, I'm not going for game accurate scaling. I want my weapons to look appropriate to my size.
    Here's what I figured.. Find MC's height, find my height and see the difference and then scale the weapons based on that difference. Since Pepakura works in millimeters I will keep everything in that measurement.

    MC's Height (in armor) = 2184mm
    My Height (in armor) = 1790mm
    My Scale to Master Cheif is then 82%

    When looking up the bruteshot's details, the dimensions should be 1811mm x 177mm x 537mm. Huge!
    But, as this reference picture shows, it is supposed to be big even on the MC.
    latest?cb=20070210224227
    Scale that by 82% and I get 1485mm x 145mm x 440mm.... That's still so big!

    I decided to go a little less and entered the depth of the pep file as 1400mm. For this weapon I will be using rundown 's file found here.
    *UPDATE: I should have kept it at 1485 as my project turned out a tad too small*


    Now to rearrange the 201 piece puzzle to fit on the pages.
    Bruteshot%20mid%20progress_zpso1hgiovp.png


    Steps for printing Pepakura: (tips on printing oversized scaling, like this one, in a couple posts down)
    1. Set Scale > change one measurement to my best guess.
    2. Use the measuring distance option to see if openings are going to be wide enough.
    3. Once I'm happy with the size, I check and change the "Paper and Printer Settings"
    ~a. Make sure paper size is correct for me, Letter=U.S and A4=Europe.
    ~b. Make top and side margins the minimum at 5mm
    ~c. Make sure Bitmap print is selected and transparency is set at 0%
    4. I like to edit the tabs and fold lines as well.
    ~a. Change tab height from 5 to 3
    ~b. Change the fold line dashes to Mountain = 1.5 and Valley = 0.5
    5. Move the pieces around or cut them in half to make them fit on the pages. I try to keep it as close to the original arrangement as possible for reference when I go to put it together (since I can't save the file).
    6. Go to: 2D Menu > Check Overlapping Parts to make sure that nothing will get cut off when printing (highlighted in red).
    7. Go to 2D Menu > uncheck Show Edge ID , the numbers can really get in the way of small fold lines.

    Bruteshot%20mid%20progress_zpso1hgiovp.png
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
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  5. Jalean4

    Jalean4 New Member

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    I was thinking the same thing. I see Duke all of the forums cheering everyone else on and giving out pointers, I can't believe you don't have your own suit. Thanks for being so involved in the 405th community!

    Looking forward to following your progress on this one Duke, I loved screwing around with the brute shot in-game.
     
  6. ZP180

    ZP180

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Seeing that you're starting with the Bruteshot just got me really excited. Best of luck on this. Glad to see you getting started on your full build.
     
    PerniciousDuke likes this.
  7. AtomicDeadlock

    AtomicDeadlock

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    I'm just gonna subscribe right now before I forget....;)
     
    PerniciousDuke likes this.
  8. kaween

    kaween

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Ha ?! Just like AtomicDeadlock said, I had no idea you didn't have a suit yet ?!
    Thumbs Up, good luck with the build ! You're in for quite a ride and we're happy to get to be allowed to look over your shoulder.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
  9. CommanderPalmer

    CommanderPalmer Membership Officer

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Wha... What?!
    You didn't build a costume before?! I was sure you did!
     
  10. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    kaween and CommanderPalmer ... What can I say.. I'm really good at pretending like I know what I'm talking about! :p
    Lol. Just kidding. I really researched a lot before commenting on the 405th. I also deliberately picked small projects to start out with that I knew I could complete and that each gave different experiences/know how. Thanks for the compliments though for sure.

    Super nice of you to say. I've been functioning off the rhythm of learn, help, build. Even though I don't know everything about building a suit I can at least share what I do know. And anyone can help just by giving encouragement so why not right? ;)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2017
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  11. Chiefwannabe

    Chiefwannabe

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    This is your first full suit??!! wow !!! Looks like you know what ur getting into!:lol anyway good luck with the build!
     
    PerniciousDuke likes this.
  12. kaween

    kaween

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Yeah, and honestly, exactly that makes his name on the forum about the most ill-chosen one possible. :D I mean, "Pernicious" ? (I had to look it up !). Hardly ! More like "FriendlyDuke" or "CoolDuke" or "HelpfullDuke" or something. :D
     
    PerniciousDuke likes this.
  13. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Ha! This is by design. :) In college I was part of a gaming/friend group called the Dukes of Stuen. When chosen to become a member there were two rules on picking a name. Before Duke had to be a big word, sesquipedalian if you will. The second is that the word had to be in contrast to your character. IllicitDuke never did drugs, VenerialDuke was a virgin, TempestousDuke was the most level headed.. you get the idea. We all still use them as our GTs.


    Progress:
    I've started pepping and decided to build out from the center of the gun to keep the ends from getting damaged. It would be really cool to get the center to spin, but this is already going to be a challenging pep so I don't know if I want to mess with it. By my calculations I'll have this thing together in 50 hours!! (15 minutes per piece) Oi vey.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
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  14. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Tips for Scaling the pep larger than it comes

    Since I don't use Edge IDs when I pep, it can become a challenge to assemble especially if I've scaled the file larger so that the pieces no longer fit on the page. Like with this bruteshot. I use the free program so I can't save the file that I scale, I have to use the original file, but when you go back to reference the pieces are no longer in the same place as what I printed making it time consuming to find them for assembly. I have a solution for this, but it might be confusing.

    Before you do anything, note how many columns there are in your first row of pages (for this example let's say there are 8 pages/columns before the next row of pieces). First, obviously edit the settings to make the margins as small as possible. After scaling the file bigger your pieces should no longer fall nicely within the page lines. BUT, they should still be grouped as if they were still in pages, pieces squished together in what resembles rectangular shapes, ignore the dotted lines. For now we are just going to work on the first row of piece pages. Highlight everything lower than the first row of pieces and drag them much lower and out of the way.

    Now we are left with a row of piece pages that don't fit on their own pages any more. Here's were the trick comes in. The first page we are going to separate so that the pieces fall on the first page and the one directly below it (page 9 in our example). Sometimes we have to rotate pieces or cut them into two pieces in order to do this, but try to keep them in as close to the original orientation as possible. Highlight the pieces to the right that are not a part of this page and move them further away. With some luck you should now have page 1 separated into two pages, page 1 and page 9. Continue this process: separate page 2 into page 2 and page 10, separate page 3 into page 3 and page 11 and so on. When you're done your one row of pages should be two. Repeat this process for the following pages, every page should be pulled apart with some pieces remaining and the rest put on the page visually below it. Be sure not to create more page columns than the original file.

    Once I'm done, before printing, I click the "overlapping pieces" function to see if I accidentally covered any pieces up. After printing I write the page numbers on them, but not in the same way. As in the example when I separated page 1 into page 1 and page 9... I then write "pg 1 1/2" on page 9. That way I can put page 1 and page 9 (now page 1.5) together and when I go to reference the pep files all page 1 pieces are now next to each other.

    Is this too much work?? Does anyone do something differently to help in this kind of situation? Does my way even make sense? (The Pepakura photo a couple posts up shows me halfway through this process and it took me probably 35 minutes from download to print)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
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  15. Kyre

    Kyre

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    I like your squad's naming conventions, and wanted to say that your method of expanding parts is essentially the same as mine. Only difference is I have Designer so I can save xD
     
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  16. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Kyre Alrighty Mr Moneybags! Lol. No, that's cool. I just can't justify it. It is so expensive to make a high quality suit that I have to try to save money anywhere I can.

    Speaking of money, I haven't had a lot of time lately while working two jobs (60 hour weeks :wacko ) But, I have made progress. Three day weekend now so I think I'll be able to push most of the pep out by the end of it. Stay tuned and keep building!

    Progress:
    20160528_132357_zpsrefkr7om.jpg

    20160528_132357_zpsrefkr7om.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
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  17. Chiefwannabe

    Chiefwannabe

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Brute shot is looking good so far! keep up the good work!:thumbsup
     
  18. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Thanks Chief! :)

    Just a little teaser till I get more put together tomorrow..

    20160529_223233_zpsryc6uufg.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  19. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Progress:

    Not quite as far as I would have liked after three full days of pepping. Also, little disappointed at the size. The handle at the top is just big enough to fit my hand through, not gonna be pretty holding it with gloves on.. The overall length is going to be 4 1/2 feet though so I can't imagine it being much bigger. After resining I will cut the handle off and add some dowels in to bring the handle up higher.

    20160530_221942_zpss6bkgosc.jpg


    I used popsicle sticks (tongue depressors) and small dowels inside as I went to help keep the structure.

    20160530_123916_zps5vdxlo08.jpg

    It will be about a week until I make significant progress again. Thanks for checking it out! Starting to lose my gusto a bit on this one. :/

    20160530_221942_zpss6bkgosc.jpg

    20160530_123916_zps5vdxlo08.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
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  20. Chiefwannabe

    Chiefwannabe

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Hell yeah!! Looks great! To bad thats its a bit small but its not visible to the naked eye you have to look closely to tell.
     
  21. Chernobyl

    Chernobyl

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Impressive, clean workmanship. This looks to be shaping up to be a very detailed, professional-grade piece.

    I recall seeing a Brute Shot done some years back, but they're very rare to come across and they tend to be obscured by the more popular UNSC weapons, which are easier to craft. It's certainly nice to see a change.
     
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  22. SavedbyGraceG12

    SavedbyGraceG12 Well-Known Member

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Nice, and clean pep work! Pepping heavily detailed weapons is no easy task!
     
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  23. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Thanks Chernobyl and SavedbyGraceG12 that really means a lot. Easier is starting to sound a lot better.. :/ Oh, well, I'll be happy again once I have this thing in my hands.

    But if others want to attempt this madness I'm reposting my tips on assembling pepakura below.

    Tips on assembling Pepakura:

    1st (and foremost) Take your time! If you rush this you'll either throw away your project or you'll spend more time trying to fix it.
    2nd Develop a system, or systems. This not only will speed you up, but will make you less prone to making mistakes and missing things.
    ----- There are several steps to assembling a pepakura: cutting, scoring, folding and gluing. First is to figure out the order you would like to do those things in. Next I'll give you tips on each of them in the order I like to use.

    Score-
    - I like to score every printed pieces before cutting them out, this makes it easier to hold them in place. Also by doing all of them first, I don't have to switch between scoring and cutting. Saves time.
    -Make sure your lines are straight! If you find scoring was crooked or wavy, score it again and try to keep it straight! Most importantly the beginning and the end of the score need to be dead on the line. Use a ruler if necessary.
    -Use a rigid, but not overly hard surface for support. I find that if I use metal or wood I tend to have a harder time. Whereas, using a self healing cutting board it lets me draw the score line smoothly.
    -Remember to have a system! Mine is blue for mountain folds and the back of the Xacto knife for the valley folds. (some people use red for valley, but I'm cheap!)

    Cut-

    -In order not to miss cutting a line and then pulling the piece out only to rip it... make a system.
    My system is:
    1. Cut all angles of the valley-fold tabs. (quick cuts here are fine.) While they are still on the page I fold the valley folds up. Being on the page there is a lot more support and making them much easier to fold. See picture below.
    2. Cut the rest of the tabs. (Tabs are not critical so you can cut them fast and not worry if you're getting on the line or not)
    3. Cut all of the non-tab edges. (These lines are very critical, if you start to veer just make sure you get back to the line before the edge runs out. You're going to be using the corners of this edge and the corners of the folded tab to line up the piece for gluing.)
    -Before cutting a piece out I make sure it is the piece I want. Check the computer model. Make sure you have the right piece and you know the orientation.
    -Sometimes I write on the back of it with little notes, like an arrow for orientation or L for left side.
    -Don't get too far ahead of yourself. Cut a few pieces out then glue them. Otherwise, you risk getting lost and overwhelmed.
    -If you're getting frayed edges on your cuts it's time to replace the blade. Don't cut yourself!

    Fold-
    -It may seem easy, but there is a little to it.
    -You're working with paper, don't force it. If you warp the piece, try to straighten it out by folding along the edge again like an envelope.

    If you're having trouble making the folds here's a couple extra tips:
    1. There are times when folds are parallel and very close together and can be difficult with larger fingers like mine. I’ve learned to use a straight edge. In this picture the piece is so small that I had to use a razor blade as a backer, but normally I just use a metal ruler in the same fashion. Brace the back of the fold with a hard straight edge and then push the fold over.
    20151211_184736_zpspbgnlltv.jpg
    20151211_184813_001_zpshadedayv.jpg

    2. Before you cut the piece out you can actually do some folding. This will help greatly if the pieces are small and difficult to work with. What I do now is prior to cutting any piece and after I've scored everything, I go through and cut the tab edges of every Valley fold and fold them up while still on the paper. This has sped up my pepping tremendously.
    20160107_171931_zps8faidmrk.jpg


    Glue-
    -Once you know exactly what piece you need and where it goes get the hot glue gun ready. You can use other types of glue, but I find that hot glue works really well, gives it a little strength, fast drying and can be reheated to undo any mistakes.
    -Start with the edge that is visually most important (generally the closest to the front). The first tab is most important so take your time.. Use a little bit of glue along the tab and line up the corners of the edge with the tab to the corresponding edge without a tab and press them together. The hot glue tends to want to slip so you have a few seconds to make sure they are lined up. *Remember, line up the edges or ends of the tab, not the numbers.
    -When gluing a long strip to something, try starting in the middle. Find some fold lines that line up really well to a tab somewhere in the middle of your cut out piece. This will help eliminate those times of getting to the end and finding you are several millimeters too short... whoops.
    -Don't force the shape, if your cuts are clean and straight and you are always gluing the corresponding edges completely parallel, then the pepakura piece will pull itself into the correct shape (it may not happen until you glue more pieces together).
    -If you didn't get the pieces completely flush together it is okay, just don't glue an edge crooked.
    -If you need to undo a glued tab, take the "nose" of the glue gun and wedge it between the two pieces, as you push it along it will reheat the glue holding them together. Alternately, you can just squeeze out a bunch of hot glue on the backside of that glued tab and it will heat the glue underneath the tab. The second method is more challenging, messy and hot, but it is quicker.
    -To avoid the need to fix, work slowly and one tab at a time. It may take a while, but I never have good luck when I try to do more than two tabs at a time (unless they are really tiny tabs).
    -Lastly, work symmetrically. If you do a couple pieces on the left side, do the same ones on the right next. This will help you keep the piece even as you work and not wind up with a leaning tower of helmet.
    -Remember, you're probably not going to get it 100% perfect so don't get frustrated. As you get closer to the end you can start leaving gaps or pinching it a little to fix some of the tension problems. Don't hesitate to cut something away or add a tab. There is going to be plenty more work to do so don't get hung up on the paper being perfect.

    20151211_184736_zpspbgnlltv.jpg

    20151211_184813_001_zpshadedayv.jpg

    20160107_171931_zps8faidmrk.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
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  24. SavedbyGraceG12

    SavedbyGraceG12 Well-Known Member

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    Your welcome bro! About to save u even more time with pepping. Ditch the pen! Do all of your scoring on the printed side. That goes for both fold lines, mountain and valley fold lines. No need to have the pen for color to distinguish between the 2 fold lines either. I usually keep the mountain lines dotted, then in the settings I'll change the valley lines to solid.:):thumbsup
     
  25. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

    I hear you. Two problems for me though. If I change one fold line to solid I would risk missing it and mistaking it for a cut line. Also, I have tried just using the knife to score both folds, but it sometimes scratches the ink off and then I can't remember if it was a mountain or valley. So far I don't have time concerns with the scoring part of it. The reason I use the pen for the mountain folds is because typically there are more of them and I can score them during down time at work. Appreciate the input though, you never know what might work better for someone.
     

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