Fhow Do I Get From Fiberglass To Bond?

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Micney

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Hey guys. i have most of my project fiberglassed (not as fun as i thought it would be...) and i wanted to start the prep work for the bondo while the last of it will be curing. what do I do to the parts to make them Bondo-able?
 
well, from what i understand (not having gotten to that stage yet in my armour build), you can take some primer (i hear grey works best) and spray paint the outside of the helmet, apparently the primer helps to bring out the imperfections that need attention, then from there you sand down the problem areas and apply the necessary amount of bondo to bring the helmet as close to what it looks like in the game as possible. (example, for making a smooth curve out of the edgy curve that pepakura pieces make)



hope that helped =D, and good luck on the rest of your build
 
I've also learned that using thin layers of bondo will drastically reduce sanding time, a little bit here and there to help smooth out those rough edges and like Outlaw-Tiger said, getting rid of those edgy corners pepakura likes to make
 
If the resin has not been cured for a long time you really don't have to do anything to get the bondo to stick, but I agree that a coat of primer will bring out the imperfections......and there will be alot! Little drips, sags and brush strokes are normal. I prime and then lightly sand the entire piece and that will make all the high spots evident. Then proceed to bondo.

I also agree to go easy on the bondo and add more later if you need to. Many wip pics show a piece with half the can on it. That makes all the detail disappear, the piece very heavy and it will take forever to sand. There are also different grades of bondo. I generally use a lighter density for ease of sanding, and then fill small scratches and holes with spot putty.

Good luck!
 
A single bright light source helps a lot, it brings up the contrast so the imperfections you might miss, really pop out. Don't worry about the tiny ones too much, paint hides the imperfections more than one might think.
 
A small mouse sander works wonders for the bondo part and cuts sanding time down drastically. If you have a Harbor Freight near you they sell a small palm sander for $12(great sander btw). It uses hook and loop paper, and a pack of the paper costs a couple bucks. I would only use it for sanding larger bondo areas, and nothing that really requires precision work, thats what a dremel is for.



I use a combination of different sized disposable plastic paint scrapers for the application process. You can pick them up at Home Depot or even Walmart, and you can clean them up with lacquer thinner if the bondo isn't fully dried on them.



For small areas check into Bondo Putty. Its a premixed putty for fixing small imperfections. Its dries rather quickly, and is sandable by hand with 320 grit.



Whatever you do DON'T glob it on or you will work yourself to death trying to sand it down. this is a step you really want to take your time with and make it right.
 
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