fiberglass, without the resin

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Vader

Member
I have some honey, and I have some fiberglass. I could try it, I suppose. Thing is, the only thing on google that lists fiberglass and honey is that video. Everything else is Fiberglass Honey Comb. Makes me think this won't work.
The other thing that bothers me is that ants and other bugs don't tend to gather around my resin mess, but they do love honey...
 

AoBfrost

Well-Known Member
Honey would be dry and crack easily when "cured", I dont think honey is really that great of a resin replacement, especially for a suit of armor.
 

Dark Rogue

Well-Known Member
You could pretty much forget about the resin fumes though. :lol:

But yeah, honey doesn't sound very structurally intact.
 

baileyboys

Well-Known Member
AoBfrost said:
Your helmet will be ant food if you use honey.
I could imagine it now
Your in a paintball game wearing your helmet you dive into an ant hill they swarm your helmet eating it.
 
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m19sssm

Jr Member
yes, but when the honey dries, there would be only the sugar/protien complexes, which are amazingly strong. Vader, tell us how it works out
 
She wasnt sitting on fiberglass cloth or mat, it was probably a cured fiberglass stand or something because mixing honey and fiberglass wont do crap.

However, I do not believe that that happened to her.
 
She wasnt sitting on fiberglass cloth or mat, it was probably a cured fiberglass stand or something because mixing honey and fiberglass wont do crap.

However, I do not believe that that happened to her.
 

AoBfrost

Well-Known Member
Why use fiberglass?

Introducing the new (actually old) frost hot glue miracle method.

Melt a bag of 30 hot glue sticks over a portable burner/stove in a coffee can or pie tin. Once all melted, get a paintbrush and start lightly brushing the inside with a light coating of hot glue, it cures in like 30 seconds, so after the first coat, start on the second right away. Start globbing it thick until you get the correct thickness to make the helmet sturdy, once done, you can resin the outside one or two times, sand the outside to smoothen, then apply bondo, or go straight to paint.
 

Sigma LS

Sr Member
I think your idea is a good alternative Frost. the only thing I can think of that might be a problem is... (you might have mentioned it previously, I don't remember the exact wording of when you first starting talking about this)

If you are unlucky enough to sand through to the hot glue, it will never sand smooth (I know this happens on the more curved parts of the H2 ODST, CQB, and Mk V even if you bondo it). I also don't know if the bondo will be supported by the structural strength of the hot glue. I'd like to see somebody try it out.
 

AoBfrost

Well-Known Member
True, about the sanding part I mean, The only way to smoothen it is to resin the outside 2 times, then sand it, if you get down to the glue, then just sand away, then re-resin over the entire helmet again and lightly sand it to be even.
 
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