Ghost Fett ODST

Ghost Fett · Mar 28, 2018

Cadet said:
For EVA foam you will have to seal it before you can paint with rattle cans. There are multiple ways to seal foam to prep for painting:
Plasti-Dip
Wood Glue
Mod Podge
And/or Heat from a Heat gun

I got me some wood glue. I’m gonna try it on a sample piece before I do it on my finished parts.

Cadet · Mar 28, 2018

I have only done Plasti Dip and Heat treatments myself. It is my understanding that you can water the wood glue down to help it spread easily, although it sounds like wood glue is more prone to cracking than other methods.

TurboCharizard · Mar 28, 2018

Ghost Fett said:
I got me some wood glue. I’m gonna try it on a sample piece before I do it on my finished parts.

With wood glue or any other PVA you want to water it down to at least a 50/50 mix to reduce brush marks.

Ghost Fett · Mar 28, 2018

Nice advice guys I woudnt have known. I’ll try 50/50. But should I try something else? Andrew dtf videos says to use wood glue but doesn’t go into any of the negatives or positives.

PaiganBoi · Mar 28, 2018

If you are looking to save money, Wood glue, PVA & Mod Podge are the cheapest ways to seal your foam. The problem is it doesn't allow a lot of flexibility. It will crack and wrinkle. If you try to use a heat gun to work out any wrinkles, the glue will bubble and look worse than before.

TurboCharizard · Mar 28, 2018

Ghost Fett said:
Nice advice guys I woudnt have known. I’ll try 50/50. But should I try something else? Andrew dtf videos says to use wood glue but doesn’t go into any of the negatives or positives.

There's dozens of options and all really depend on the tools, patience and skills you have. Deep pockets can also help. Personally I've tried the following for EVA

PlastiDip - Expensive, reliable, temperature sensitive
FlexiDip - Slightly less expensive than PlastiDip locally, same benefits but requires more layers for the same finish quality as PlastiDip
PVA - Dirt cheap and is awesome for props that are less likely to bend. Definitely dilute or you'll go mad with getting rid of brush strokes and sanding them down.
Liquid Latex - If you find a good supplier, it's awesome. Peels off easier than PlastiDip but can be brushed or spray gunned on. Definitely lends more to organic textures since I've only been able to get a more porous looking surface finish that isn't great for metal sheen.

I want to try SmoothOn Epsilon Pro as a semi-flexible rigid coat to reduce surface damage and increase lifespan/durability of a suit but my local supplier is a butt and won't stock it.

That's just the tip of the iceberg really. You could coat with neoprene, Frog Juice, Flex Coat, resins, leather paints you name it.

Punished Props and Kamui Cosplay both have good videos covering some of their favourite methods, they're a good place to get a visual check on a few of the things I've mentioned.

Ghost Fett · Mar 28, 2018

Gauntlet update. Definitely the hardest part so far. I made some mistakes I wish I could fix but it’ll have to do unless I want to remake the whole thing. On to the right gauntlet.

Bobby Boucher · Apr 2, 2018

The gauntlet looks great! All the little details are awesome, keep it up!

ewatt99 · Apr 6, 2018

A key thing I realized building and looking at other builds is having clean and sharp lines. If your knife isnt as sharp as it should or you are uneven it isnt bad, but you notice it and takes away from the realism. Some parts on my first suit were not even and it looks bad. You did a great job and it is all smooth. I suggest looking at a bunch of pictures in google, under "Halo reach ODST" and find photos of wide and up close parts for reference. You can see details and add to them. Good luck!

Ghost Fett · Apr 12, 2018

Got my Sean bradly Helmet in today and went ahead out of excitement and cut out the visor and did the clean up work on the neck. Don’t have the visor perma installed yet just taped in to get a pic. I’m still really wanting the Sean bradly kit so I may switch over to it soon. I just don’t have the time right now to keep building this out of foam with finals coming up and getting married and moving. It’s becoming hard to find the time to sit down and cut and glue all night.

eiros · Apr 12, 2018

Looks awesome! I have always loved Dutch's helmet I had one for my first custom ODST Sean does amazing work on his helmets and his kits.

Ghost Fett · Apr 12, 2018

eiros said:
Looks awesome! I have always loved Dutch's helmet I had one for my first custom ODST Sean does amazing work on his helmets and his kits.

I know it’s a bit different but i like it. I wasn’t sure at first but it’s growing on me it has a little extra flare to it. I’m wondering how on the Dutch helmet you screw in the visor in two places. There’s one obvious space for a screw but not a higher second from what I can tell. Confused..

eiros · Apr 13, 2018

Ghost Fett said:
I know it’s a bit different but i like it. I wasn’t sure at first but it’s growing on me it has a little extra flare to it. I’m wondering how on the Dutch helmet you screw in the visor in two places. There’s one obvious space for a screw but not a higher second from what I can tell. Confused..

When I did mine I put the screw in the two Trapazoid? bits behind the visor section

Harri51 · Apr 14, 2018

solid start man! Keep up the great work.

Asgardianhammer · Jun 27, 2018

Looking Good Ghost Fett . Cannot wait to see this finished. Will have to get you together with others for a build party locally!

Dirtdives2424 · Jun 27, 2018

Ok dude.....I feel for you. Got a lot going on but priorities first. Deal with rl and everything else will fall into place. I’ve said it many times and will say it again: Consider your build as a marathon and not a sprint. Take you time and don’t rush things. If you do your build will show it. The helmet looks great and great job taking out the visor section. That is the hardest part considering your feelings on not messing it up the rest of the helmet. As for attaching the visor, you may have want to consider adding some Bondo to the inside to make an anchor point to hold the visor in place.